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Sephora 03-27-2013 10:08 AM

Easy Crown Molding
 
For my next project I would like to tackle some crown in my living room and dining room. Anyone have some good tips? I've seen some stuff at one of the big box stores that is called "Easy Crown"..essentially you nail in a piece and then install (slide or snap) the crown on top. It isn't real wood but that poly...

Yay...Nay? Use real wood?

joecaption 03-27-2013 10:30 AM

Use real wood.
That plastic poop likes to melt when your cutting it.
I suck at doing crown so I looked for something to make it easyer.
I ended up with these.

http://www.bing.com/shopping/bench-d...M=ENCA&lppc=16

http://www.starrett.com/saws/product-detail?k=505P-7

So simple to use I did not even have to read the directions.
My local Lowes had the Crown jig.

oldhouseguy 03-27-2013 05:08 PM

I would always prefer to use real wood, but I have used the poly stuff quite a few times due to lower cost.

Melting? What are you cutting it with a torch? :)

I have cut it by hand with a small miter box and it hasn't ever melted.

joecaption 03-27-2013 05:15 PM

Hand mitre box what's that?
I have not used a hand box in at least 10 years. Had two and gave them away.
I'm sure if that's all you have and not getting paid by the hour for the job and your in good shape that would be fine.

SPS-1 03-27-2013 05:43 PM

Use real wood. I used the polyurethane molding once... the price is right and the design was just what I was looking for. But its too flimsy. The walls are not perfectly flat, and the ceiling is not perfectly flat, the polyurethane molding is flimsy, and I am an amateur. Result was too much wavyness in the molding. Guests won't notice it, but I will always know it could have been better.

oldhouseguy 03-27-2013 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1147264)
Hand mitre box what's that?
I have not used a hand box in at least 10 years. Had two and gave them away.
I'm sure if that's all you have and not getting paid by the hour for the job and your in good shape that would be fine.

Just the right tool for the job when it comes to the cheap poly stuff.

jaydevries 03-27-2013 06:17 PM

try this jig is eliminates all the confusion of cutting crown
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/...d_-_milescraft
and something similar or this for finding angles to cut crown at
http://www.starrett.com/saws/saws-ha...ortBy=none/asc

Sephora 03-28-2013 07:30 AM

My walls are in pretty good shape. I wanted to find the esiest way to put it up. I'll have to look into some of the links. I think I might pick up a mitre saw at HF. I am sure I'll be able to use it for something else down the road. I picked up a Bosch Multi-Tool and have used it numerous times now. I love that thing!

I am going to have to get my husband to help me...I am dreading telling him about this cause we (mainly I) just did our half bath.

Unfort he married a crazy DIY gal.

hand drive 03-28-2013 07:56 AM

if you see someone standing around looking like they are in space they are probably trying to fathom crown cuts for the first time :) once you can picture it you can do it. go with wood, it is really solid and spans well. if it is small crown then go with the crown stops for the miter saw, they help to bed the crown while you cut. personally I cut on the flat laid on its backside, adjustments are super easy this way if corners are not 90 degrees which is the case sometimes. Good luck!

ddawg16 03-28-2013 09:45 AM

The plastic stuff will expand and contract more with temp changes......

Sounds like a good excuse to buy a compound miter saw.....get a slider....more uses in the future....

Be prepared to take a short length and use it as a test piece. I also use those pieces to help measure....

woodworkbykirk 03-28-2013 03:52 PM

for interior use the plastic crown wont be as effected by temperature change as the inside of a house wont vary by more than 10 degrees.. exterior is a totally different story

carpdad 03-31-2013 09:05 AM

Plastic (foam) moldings worked well for me. I would not use it along the walls and floors because it does not take the daily abuse, but on the ceiling, it is a good choice for painted molding.
You still need a good miter saw and a blade, especially as a beginner. But you can use adhesive caulk (osi brand for me), but don't use that instant grab caulk. You need some time to adjust while nailing. You should buy/rent some type of power nailer. You can nail into the sheetrock for positioning while the adhesive sets.
Don't try to push the molding to the surface for a tight joint. It is not going to work. I would go over the whole joint later with a caulk.
I used butt joint for molding to molding joint and was able to "adjust" the joint a little for best match. Fill in the nail holes and joints with sandable compound filler. Wood filler dries too hard and will damage the molding while sanding. Filling should be done after molding adhesive has set. Otherwise, you will move them out of position. Use adhesive on the crown joints and tape the outside corner joints while the adhesive sets.
Search the youtube for how to. It really is better than me trying to explain in words. The miter angle is around 33.3 degrees, not 45, but the cutting angle can change with the type of crown molding, so research and find out about your choice of crown.

oldhouseguy 04-01-2013 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk (Post 1147938)
for interior use the plastic crown wont be as effected by temperature change as the inside of a house wont vary by more than 10 degrees.. exterior is a totally different story

I live in the Chicago area, one project I did was using the poly crown on a covered porch. I gotta tell you, I did it about 8 years ago and it hasn't moved, expanded or contracted at all. Well, if it has, it didn't crack or widen out any gaps.

I think the stuff is great for the right applications.

Most of my house is the original wood/stained crown, and it does look a lot more authentic, but for the cost, the poly has worked well in a bathroom, porch, etc.


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