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Old 03-03-2008, 04:05 PM   #1
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Drywalling between beams in vaulted ceiling


My house was built with a vaulted wood beam ceiling. It looks really nice but it was also not built with any insulation. It is just shingles, buffalo board, and tongue and groove knotty pine, all supported by 6x10 beams spaced about 3.5 ft apart. I will be hiring a spray foam contractor to fill 6 inches of the space between the beams and then covering it with drywall. I wanted to leave some of the beam exposed though for looks. My question is how you you frame out the space between the beams to attach the drywall. The spaces between the beams is roughly 3ft by 14 ft. I was planning to attach furring strips to each side of the 6x10 beams at the level where I want the drywall to sit.

Do you think that I need to add any cross support perpendicular to the beams where the edges of the drywall sheets will abut each other. I was planning to put the drywall up lengthwise with the beams and just rip lengthwise to fit. This would leave just one seam in the middle.

Basically I was thinking it would look like this:
BB=beam CC=ceiling F=furring strip DD=drywall

CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC
BB___________BB___________BB___________BB_________ __ BB
BBF_________FBBF_________FBBF_________FBBF________ __FBB
BBDDDDDDDDDDBBDDDDDDDDDDBBDDDDDDDDDBBDDDDDDDDDDDBB
BB__________ BB___________ BB__________ BB___________ BB


Last edited by ngyoung82; 03-03-2008 at 04:08 PM.
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Old 03-03-2008, 04:49 PM   #2
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Drywalling between beams in vaulted ceiling


Your spacing is less than 16", therefore more ideal than a standard wall construction.

As within a typical wall construction, you do not typically support both edges of the gyp. bd. edge, therefore your proposed assembly will work fine. The material is designed to span this distance.

Attach the furring to the side of the beam and attach your gyp. bd. to the furring.

Be sure to run any lighting, future wiring, speaker wire, etc, obviously prior to the gyp. bd.

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Old 03-03-2008, 05:08 PM   #3
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Drywalling between beams in vaulted ceiling


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Originally Posted by ngyoung82 View Post
....all supported by 6x10 beams spaced about 3.5 ft apart....
Quote:
Originally Posted by ngyoung82 View Post
....
...The spaces between the beams is roughly 3ft by 14 ft....
I am confused. How far apart are the beams?
3.5 feet?
3'?
14"?
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Old 03-03-2008, 05:20 PM   #4
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Drywalling between beams in vaulted ceiling


I should have said about 3.5ft on center. I measured them a while ago and I was about to measure again but lost my frickin tape measure today. Lets just say it I have 3ft between each beam and about 14ft from wall to wall. Theres an interior wall dividing the house that runs along the peak of the vaulted ceiling. I just want to know if I need to run a center stud in the center of the 3ft wide space between the beams or any cross support to screw the drywall into?


Can drywall that is 3ft wide be hung with its only attachment to the framing being on its longer sides?
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Old 03-03-2008, 05:42 PM   #5
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Drywalling between beams in vaulted ceiling


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Originally Posted by ngyoung82 View Post
I should have said about 3.5ft on center. I measured them a while ago and I was about to measure again but lost my frickin tape measure today. Lets just say it I have 3ft between each beam and about 14ft from wall to wall. Theres an interior wall dividing the house that runs along the peak of the vaulted ceiling. I just want to know if I need to run a center stud in the center of the 3ft wide space between the beams or any cross support to screw the drywall into?


Can drywall that is 3ft wide be hung with its only attachment to the framing being on its longer sides?

I must have read the original post too quickly. I thought there was a 14" spacing. Obviously you want to stick w/i 16" spacing for gyp. bd.
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Old 03-03-2008, 06:32 PM   #6
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Drywalling between beams in vaulted ceiling


Quote:
Originally Posted by ngyoung82 View Post
I should have said about 3.5ft on center. I measured them a while ago and I was about to measure again but lost my frickin tape measure today. Lets just say it I have 3ft between each beam and about 14ft from wall to wall. Theres an interior wall dividing the house that runs along the peak of the vaulted ceiling. I just want to know if I need to run a center stud in the center of the 3ft wide space between the beams or any cross support to screw the drywall into?


Can drywall that is 3ft wide be hung with its only attachment to the framing being on its longer sides?
I would suggest this route:

Install your "nailers" along all 4 sides of the rectangular area that encompasses the space between the beams. According to you, that overall space is 14' long by 36" wide. I would suggest simply using 2 x 4's (on the flat - against the beams) for all your nailers. These perimeter nailers will, in essence, be attached as "cleats" or shall I say, "nailing cleats".
The wall locations that make up the 36" lengths may be a little more difficult for you to do, since it would involve "ripping" the cleats down to match the angle of the wall, in order to give you a flat surface that matches the side cleats in terms of their "angle". Can you handle this part? You would need a table saw, and a stead hand. If your angle is "off" a little, you can adjust with shims.

Now, you need to install some kind of a nailing surface along the center areas of the space (14' x 36") to take up the 36" gap.
Since I am not sure that your existing ceiling possesses enough "meat" to nail a strong-back frame-arrangement, to serve a nailer, I suggest that you consider installing cross sections of 2x4's instead (bridging the span of the 36"). You could toe nail these into the perimeter cleats at 16" OC.

Last, getting back to the end perimeter cleats: Instead of ripping them down at an angle, it may be possible to install them like the center area cross cleats, but as close as you can to the walls.
Even if you have gap of about 1", the sheetrock would be fine. If the gap goes beyond that 1", I suggest that you go back to the ripping-to-match the angle route.

Good Luck!

Last edited by AtlanticWBConst.; 03-03-2008 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 03-05-2008, 08:56 AM   #7
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Drywalling between beams in vaulted ceiling


I have 1 3/4" thick tongue and groove wood for my ceiling. It looks really nice but when it comes to paying my gas bill I would rather have a insulated ceiling. So I am getting 6" of Icynene sprayed in between the beams to seal and insulate. So from what I am getting from the replies is that it is not recommended to have drywall being nailed at 36" spacing.

I have 16 "pockets" to fill and just with attaching 2x4 to either side of the beams that would be about 448' linear feet. There will be less because not every section is 14' long. I think it would be more cost effective to add a 2x6 center nailer that runs parallel to the beams and staple strips of osb to make it exactly 6" wide. Otherwise, it would take another 550' of 2x4 to make cross beams every 16". I should be able to nail it directly to the wood ceiling. I assume I should use 2" penny nails. I have the 1 3/4" pine wood plus an extra 5/8" of decking on top of that to nail to so I don't think I will penetrate through the decking.
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Old 03-05-2008, 09:21 AM   #8
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Drywalling between beams in vaulted ceiling


Quote:
Originally Posted by ngyoung82 View Post
...So from what I am getting from the replies is that it is not recommended to have drywall being nailed at 36" spacing.
Yes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ngyoung82 View Post
...I think it would be more cost effective to add a 2x6 center nailer that runs parallel to the beams and staple strips of osb to make it exactly 6" wide.....I should be able to nail it directly to the wood ceiling. I assume I should use 2" penny nails. I have the 1 3/4" pine wood plus an extra 5/8" of decking on top of that to nail to so I don't think I will penetrate through the decking.
I thought of this originally. However, I had assumed that this was a vaulted or cathedral ceiling. (If that had been the case, there may not have been enough framing to install a nailer using the appropriate length nails to secure it). Evidently, it is none of the these.

Installing a continuous nailer, centered, and parallel to the beams, would, in fact, be the best method to install a center area nailer.

The best method, would then be to find the center of the area between the beams. Then measure over on one side 3/4". Along this mark, snap a chaulkline or make a center line mark along the length of the actual center.
Thus, you would end up with a line running parallel to the beams, not quite at the center, but 3/4" from the center.
Then install a 2x4 along the length of this line, nailed to teh joists. Install it on the flat. It is to serve as a nailing cleat, to which you will install your 2x6 to and against. This will be the easiest method to install the 2x6, and to be able to install it straight and where you want it.
(By offsetting your line 3/4", and installing the edge of your 2x6 along that line, you would then be placing your 2x6 at a point where it would be exactly "centered" at the 36" opening).

(This was the what I meant, when I mentioned a "strong-back" type of frame arrangement, as an alternative, based on the material in the existing ceiling to nail it to)

Last edited by AtlanticWBConst.; 03-05-2008 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 03-05-2008, 09:29 AM   #9
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Drywalling between beams in vaulted ceiling


OK, I never thought to put a 2x4 flat to the ceiling to be able to secure the 2x6 on its short edge.

I have read other construction instructions for roofing where they added 1/4" plywood or OSB to the short edge of the 2x6 to give it an exact 6" width.
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Old 03-05-2008, 09:39 AM   #10
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Drywalling between beams in vaulted ceiling


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I have read other construction instructions for roofing where they added 1/4" plywood or OSB to the short edge of the 2x6 to give it an exact 6" width.
Yes, that's fine, however, I'd suggest using 1-5/8" drywall screws along that nailer area, so that the screw length properly penetrates to the 2x6.

You will have 1/2" sheetrock + 1/2" OSB, that would only leave a miniscule 1/4" of screw to attach to the nailer itself, thus the use of the 1-5/8" screw...
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Old 03-07-2008, 12:10 PM   #11
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Drywalling between beams in vaulted ceiling


The wood ceiling looks really good and you might want to keep it. You could nail 2x6's on edge on top of the roof and fill in between them with insulation. then put a new roof over it attached to the 2x6's. My son built a post and beam cabin with a beautiful wood ceiling and this is what he did.
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Old 03-08-2008, 12:20 AM   #12
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Drywalling between beams in vaulted ceiling


Yep I was going to definitely suggest going outside and on top rather that what you are describing.

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