Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Carpentry

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 03-08-2011, 08:52 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 32
Rewards Points: 25
Default

Door trim miter


I had the trim on my exterior back door replaced with a composite, vinyl type trim instead of wood because the old trim was rotting at the bottom. It looked good until the one miter corner started to open up recently. Originally, there was a very small gap that was caulked. I am thinking water got in, expanded with the combination weather we had, cracked the caulk and separated the joint. I could see the nail going from the top piece into the side piece was popping out of the top and I don't see a nail going from the side piece into the top piece like I assume there should be. Attached are photos of the door, the one miter that is still good and then the one with the gap. How do I fix it? Renail it with new nail? What type? Use existing nail or hole? Pre drill pilot holes if new nail is used? Wood screw? I want to bring the joint back together and secure it so it doesn't open up again, but don't know best way. I am no carpenter or handyman (obviously, or wouldn't need the advice!). Thanks.
Attached Images
    

Slyguysmoke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2011, 06:15 AM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 3,118
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Door trim miter


Vinyl expands/contracts considerably over a season. It will probably close up when warm weather hits. But you can minimize the miter gap by nailing/screwing(stainless steel nails or deck screws) fron the side piece into the top piece after pulling the two together. Add some siliconized latex caulk to the joint first, since it is also an adhesive. The joint should be caulked if you do nothing else.

Just Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2011, 12:12 PM   #3
A door a day is all I ask
 
TheDoorGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central Coast of California
Posts: 103
Rewards Points: 75
Default

Door trim miter


I agree with Bill. If the material is solid you can clamp it back together and run a screw in from side or top.
The only difference I would have is that I would use polyurethane caulk instead of silicone caulk. But that's
as much personal preference as anything else.

Unit looks nice there!
RC/DG
__________________
Richard The Door Guy
www.thedoorguy.com

TheDoorGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2011, 02:37 PM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 32
Rewards Points: 25
Default

Door trim miter


So I will be better off using screws instead of finishing nails? One from the top to the side piece and also one from the side to the top to "lock" it in? Will screws be too big for that?
Slyguysmoke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2011, 04:46 PM   #5
A door a day is all I ask
 
TheDoorGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central Coast of California
Posts: 103
Rewards Points: 75
Default

Door trim miter


A screw would hold better than a nail.I would use a small gauge deck or stainless screw,
maybe #10 or so. It depends on how thick your trim is. Drill a pilot hole a bit less than the
screw diameter and be sure to countersink for the head of the screw.
One direction screw should be sufficient. If you do both directions you run
the risk of your second screw hitting your first and damaging the face of
your moulding...
__________________
Richard The Door Guy
www.thedoorguy.com

TheDoorGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2011, 05:08 PM   #6
Framing Contractor
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Caldwell, NJ
Posts: 1,758
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default

Door trim miter


Quote:
Originally Posted by Slyguysmoke View Post
I had the trim on my exterior back door replaced with a composite, vinyl type trim instead of wood because the old trim was rotting at the bottom. It looked good until the one miter corner started to open up recently. Originally, there was a very small gap that was caulked. I am thinking water got in, expanded with the combination weather we had, cracked the caulk and separated the joint. I could see the nail going from the top piece into the side piece was popping out of the top and I don't see a nail going from the side piece into the top piece like I assume there should be. Attached are photos of the door, the one miter that is still good and then the one with the gap. How do I fix it? Renail it with new nail? What type? Use existing nail or hole? Pre drill pilot holes if new nail is used? Wood screw? I want to bring the joint back together and secure it so it doesn't open up again, but don't know best way. I am no carpenter or handyman (obviously, or wouldn't need the advice!). Thanks.
The first picture is a house with vinyl siding. The rest doesn't have vinyl siding and there is NO drip cap on top of the brick molding. Who installed this with no drip cap? You HAVE to have drip cap covering the top of your brick molding.
__________________
Joe Carola
Joe Carola is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2011, 06:18 PM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 32
Rewards Points: 25
Default

Door trim miter


Sorry Joe. I dont know what you refer to. The house is all vinyl siding. The only brick is the steps...
Slyguysmoke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2011, 06:40 PM   #8
Framing Contractor
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Caldwell, NJ
Posts: 1,758
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default

Door trim miter


Quote:
Originally Posted by Slyguysmoke View Post
Sorry Joe. I dont know what you refer to. The house is all vinyl siding. The only brick is the steps...
Brick mold is the trim you're talking where the 45 opened.
Attached Thumbnails
Door trim miter-brick-mold.jpg  
__________________
Joe Carola
Joe Carola is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2011, 07:24 PM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 32
Rewards Points: 25
Default

Door trim miter


Oh. Ok. It's at least caulked and never cracked or dripped/leaked in the 19 years of the house, so I think it's ok. When the old wood moulding was taken off, everything behind it was good.
Slyguysmoke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2011, 05:39 PM   #10
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Long Island
Posts: 348
Rewards Points: 250
Default

Door trim miter


I see another problem. Theres no sill under the legs. Who ever put it in cut the sill too short. The legs either go all the way down or they sit on the sill. The sill cut is called rabbit ears. Im not saying this called the separation but didnt help it either.

Pre drill, use wood glue and clamps and 2 1/2" wood finish screws from the top and or sides. Should work. If not, they sell vinyl brick mold coverings that over lap on the miters or you can have a siding guy bend you up some aluminum caps.
II Weeks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2011, 06:33 PM   #11
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 32
Rewards Points: 25
Default

Door trim miter


Thanks. They actually go down to the metal threshold but it's hard to see. Hope that's ok.

Slyguysmoke is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
miter bar problem ChrisMohrSr Carpentry 2 02-06-2011 08:47 PM
Slide compound miter saw dinotoad Tools 11 02-10-2010 08:45 PM
miter saw 45 Deg how too turn table? chinese_lover Carpentry 9 07-22-2008 08:58 PM
Need advice or feedback on miter saws mwehnes Carpentry 10 02-21-2007 08:48 AM
10" miter saw fred430 Tools 6 11-27-2006 08:16 AM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.