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Old 07-29-2011, 09:56 AM   #1
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Door R.O.


For the purpose of figuring/constructing a rough opening for an entry door in "existing construction" ~

Is the R.O. measured from bottom of the header to the subfloor surface, or top of header to the top of sole plate.

I thought the sole plate remained for an entry door so as to incorporate it into the threshold.

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Old 07-29-2011, 10:29 AM   #2
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Door R.O.


ro from finished floor so you will need material in the door opening that thickness to set the door on and depending on sill height at interior i would probably raise so as to not hang on area throw rug at door. just a thought

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Old 07-29-2011, 11:20 AM   #3
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Door R.O.


R.O. is from finished floor surface to underside of header. The sole plate (on new construction) will be removed once the wall is framed and fastened in place. Typically, though you should verify with the door manufacturer, the R.O. dimensions is 2-1/2" greater than the finished opening (ex. a 2'-6"x6'-8" door requires an R.O. of 2'-8.5"x6'-10.5".
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Old 07-29-2011, 11:49 AM   #4
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Door R.O.


We frame by adding 2" to the width of the door for both interior and exterior door RO. For an interior door, that's a lot of room and a lot of shims. An exterior unit still has to be shimmed. If you add 2" to the top from the unfinished floor, you'll have lots of room for a finished floor.
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Old 07-29-2011, 04:49 PM   #5
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Door R.O.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kevsprojects View Post
For the purpose of figuring/constructing a rough opening for an entry door in "existing construction" ~

Is the R.O. measured from bottom of the header to the subfloor surface, or top of header to the top of sole plate.



thanks
How can you figure the RO from the top of a header?
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Old 07-29-2011, 05:50 PM   #6
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Door R.O.


Yea I meant bottom of header. Not enough coffee on that initial post!

Ok, so from header to finished floor. So for new construction they cut it 2-1/2" greater than finished, but are they just figuring 1/2" as the finished flooring. Not to beat a dead horse ~ but if the flooring isn't finished yet in new construction, are they using an arbitrary number to represent finished flooring in order to derive the RO?

I assumed they just cut the ro to a universal standard, or do they actually know the finished doors for a particular build etc. I guess that could be variable depending on the builder etc.

On that same thought, I've always understood the 6/8 height dimension to be standard but I'm finding info stating that 6/9 is becoming more prevalent.

Anyway, my scenario is that I want to replace maybe all of my existing doors. I guess I should find a finished fit that will allow an inch or so for shimming. I'd like install 3/0 doors for entry to replace the 2/8 doors currently in place. I know I need to get some real specs on the doors to see what they require for RO.
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Old 07-31-2011, 10:54 PM   #7
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Door R.O.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TrapperL View Post
We frame by adding 2" to the width of the door for both interior and exterior door RO. For an interior door, that's a lot of room and a lot of shims. An exterior unit still has to be shimmed. If you add 2" to the top from the unfinished floor, you'll have lots of room for a finished floor.
Two inches to the width of the door will work with decent framing, but that is only 1/4" on each side to shim, not exactly what I call a "lot of room". I prefer 2 1/2", as many of todays framers take the term "rough opening" way too literally.

Ditto for the height. Most units come form the mill shop hung with at least an inch of clearance under the door, add 3/4" for the top jamb thickness, another 3/8" for the material above the top jamb, and 3/4" for wood flooring, and you have a clearance problem.
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Old 08-01-2011, 07:51 AM   #8
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Door R.O.


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Originally Posted by troubleseeker View Post
Two inches to the width of the door will work with decent framing, but that is only 1/4" on each side to shim, not exactly what I call a "lot of room". I prefer 2 1/2", as many of todays framers take the term "rough opening" way too literally.

Ditto for the height. Most units come form the mill shop hung with at least an inch of clearance under the door, add 3/4" for the top jamb thickness, another 3/8" for the material above the top jamb, and 3/4" for wood flooring, and you have a clearance problem.
That was one of my pet peeves when building, some fellows building the header too low. I have had to go into a house where the header was so low it had to be cut back to get the door in, or cut the jamb and bottom of the doors. When you don't get paid to correct someone elses goof up it really ticks you off.
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:43 PM   #9
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Door R.O.


We deal with a lot of B and E jobs which means replacing a lot of exterior doors. I can't believe how commonly the RO is framed too short. Trying to take 1/2" off the header with a recip really sucks.

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