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Old 07-06-2014, 08:50 AM   #1
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Door Install help in older home..


All -

I tried my hand at updating my parents house with a new door. I knew the new prehung door jamb was wider than what my parents have -- sheetrock on one side and plaster lath on the other. I took the jamb apart and ran it through a table saw to get it flush on both sides, as close as possible. I reassembled then got to work.

I could have sworn i plumbed up the hinge side, but once I got the hinge side nailed up (I tacked one side of the latch side) the door gets a little hard to close as it approaches the latch, as if it's building tension. And naturally when i let go the door springs open and comes to rest half way.

I've yet to drive any screws because i believe that comes when you are perfectly square. And I haven't nailed the latch side yet because I'd like to get the door to swing freely and smoothly without much effort before securing the latch side (don't know if this is a mistake)

Could use a hand on getting this one resolved. Thanks,

Just to add, the door doesn't stick currently and closes without binding or hitting any parts of the jamb. It's just really tight as it approaches the latch opening and springs open once I let go.

Harry.

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Last edited by hboogz; 07-06-2014 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 07-06-2014, 09:36 AM   #2
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Door Install help in older home..


the hinge jamb side is positioned such that the back side of hinge connects before the door closes fully causing it to spring open. if you look at the hinge pins while operating door you will see the pins move toward opening once the hinge starts to bind. the fix is to reposition jamb so it is more squarely aligned with other wall or put tiny shims behind the pin side of hinge out at the edge of the jamb(making hinge a little out of square with jamb, angled more-so toward interior). the shims will reposition the hinge so it sits more in line with the strike jamb and allow door to freely swing until it makes it to the strike jamb.

you can leave door on to fix it or pop door off the hinges. if left on just loosen hinge scres enough to slip shim in( slide something under door while in open position to hold weight of door as you operate) once you have the shims in place loosely tighten screws back down locking shims in. probably 3/32" not a full eighth inch for the shim size.

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Last edited by hand drive; 07-06-2014 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 07-06-2014, 02:38 PM   #3
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Door Install help in older home..


Thanks for the tip handdrive.

I noticed the hinge spacing was off towards the bottom the door binds against the jamb, while there is an equal space between the middle and top hinges (when door is in the fully closed position) I recessed the bottom half the jamb next to the hinge with a countersunk 3" deck screw. This created some space and made the door close better. The door still however binds at a part of the jamb and springs open on it's own.

I tried putting shims behind the hinge leave that meets the jamb, but that didn't do much (don't know if that's what you had suggested)

I actually hear the bottom hinge "cringe" creak a little as i'm getting close to the latch opening...

scratching my head on this one...
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Old 07-07-2014, 07:44 AM   #4
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Door Install help in older home..


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Thanks for the tip handdrive.

I noticed the hinge spacing was off towards the bottom the door binds against the jamb, while there is an equal space between the middle and top hinges (when door is in the fully closed position) I recessed the bottom half the jamb next to the hinge with a countersunk 3" deck screw. This created some space and made the door close better. The door still however binds at a part of the jamb and springs open on it's own.

I tried putting shims behind the hinge leave that meets the jamb, but that didn't do much (don't know if that's what you had suggested)

I actually hear the bottom hinge "cringe" creak a little as i'm getting close to the latch opening...

scratching my head on this one...
if the door binds to the jamb and you have enough room in the opening shim behind the hinge/hinges ( full size hinge shim) to get the door away from jamb. either the door is binding to the jamb or the hinge, if it is the hing you will see the pin part of the hinge move each time the door binds against it. either way will cause the door to spring
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Old 07-07-2014, 10:51 AM   #5
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Door Install help in older home..


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if the door binds to the jamb and you have enough room in the opening shim behind the hinge/hinges ( full size hinge shim) to get the door away from jamb. either the door is binding to the jamb or the hinge, if it is the hing you will see the pin part of the hinge move each time the door binds against it. either way will cause the door to spring
Thanks a lot handdrive, great info. This is the picture of the door installed. In my head I thought by adding shims towards the bottom hinge I'd be bringing the door closer to the jamb. But what you describe is what's happening, as I'm just about to hit the strike jamb latch, the bottom hinge pin moves/bind against the door.

How far out should I shim that hinge? I used 2 1/2" 16g finish nails so I have to run a recip saw to loosen that connection up. Next time I should use 18g brads so to make it easier to adjust.


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Old 07-07-2014, 11:59 AM   #6
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Door Install help in older home..


I'd shim the hinge out enough for the door not to hit the jamb on strike side. so measure how much you have between door and strike jamb with door closed. divide that in space two and make that your hinge. you might could go heavy to jamb side with measurement. try door with shim in place and if door bumps strike jamb re insert the 2 1/2 screw and tighten down some to get door to clear.

you can also shim the hinge from the door ( door hinge mortice shim) instead of shimming behind hinge on the jamb...

edit, because you do not have casing yet you can also fudge strike jamb over to clear the door, be careful not to just move jamb over to much in one spot but try and adjust a few feet away so the jamb does not get squirrley (use door straight edge as guide when closed)

Last edited by hand drive; 07-07-2014 at 12:03 PM.
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:33 PM   #7
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Door Install help in older home..


Quote:
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I'd shim the hinge out enough for the door not to hit the jamb on strike side. so measure how much you have between door and strike jamb with door closed. divide that in space two and make that your hinge. you might could go heavy to jamb side with measurement. try door with shim in place and if door bumps strike jamb re insert the 2 1/2 screw and tighten down some to get door to clear.

you can also shim the hinge from the door ( door hinge mortice shim) instead of shimming behind hinge on the jamb...

edit, because you do not have casing yet you can also fudge strike jamb over to clear the door, be careful not to just move jamb over to much in one spot but try and adjust a few feet away so the jamb does not get squirrley (use door straight edge as guide when closed)
What are your thoughts about cutting the hinge mortise on the jamb side deeper, so the hinge sits further in, thus creating more space when the hinges meet ?

based on your suggestions, all that I would need to do is shim out the bottom half of that jamb enough so that it doesn't bind and the door swings freely without hitting the strike jamb.

Last edited by hboogz; 07-07-2014 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:39 AM   #8
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Door Install help in older home..


Beveling the hinge side edge could help. Latch side also, if not already. Also opposite jambs may not be in a plane. Can you remember the original way the jamb was? Side jambs may not be square to the head jamb.

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