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Old 04-20-2009, 07:47 PM   #1
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Door Gaps


Hey ya'll DIY'ers!!
I have been trying some searching and having no luck. my back door has a small gap at the bottom of the door that you can see daylight from. At the top of the door it is tight (door against door jamb). This is on the door knob side. I know I could through some weather stripping in the gap to fill it in but of course that's not really solving the problem. All of the hinges are screwed in tight. I'm just wanting to know if someone can let me know how to pull it in up at the top so that is will close the gap up at the bottom. I thought of bending the hinges but figured I would get some suggestions before I tear something up!!
thanks in advance to anyone who might help.

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Old 04-20-2009, 08:22 PM   #2
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If it IS just a small gap at the bottom, there is usually an adhesive piece of foam (about 2" x 2" tapered towards one side) supplied with the door that you can apply between the jamb and the weather stripping to close that gap. It still allows the door to close properly but pushes the weather stripping out enough to seal the opening.

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Old 04-20-2009, 08:40 PM   #3
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No problem here. What you'll need to do is the following:
  1. shut the door, pop all the pins and set the door aside
  2. remove the top and middle hinges only on the door jamb, and set them aside
  3. now...if you have a table saw, make yourself some pencil size wood strips about 1/4" square and 6-8" long. If you don't have a table saw, (the goal is to fill the screw holes with wood!)
  4. Then grab one of your pieces and shave the end of it round (a bit bigger then the existing screw hole where the hinges are and fill all 8 holes. You should shave it long enoung to hammer in the hole about 3/4's of an inch. Then score the top and bottom of your little filler strip piece and snap it off.
  5. This now fills the old screw holes
  6. Now depending on the gap below where you see light determines how much you need to slide your top hinge out and away from it's original setting.
  7. So if your door gap is about a 1/4" at the bottom, slide your hinge out an 1/8" and mount it with screws (pre-drill of course)
  8. Generally, whatever size gap you have below, will be half the distance of how far the top hinge moves
  9. Don't mount the middle hinge to the frame!!
  10. But install your middlle hinge to the door with the pin and make sure it stays closed against the edge of door.
  11. Now install your door in the frame. The easiest way to do this is to install it as though it's shut in the frame. The knob should latch and hinges should line up.
  12. Now install the top and bottom hinge pins.
  13. Open the door, set the middle hinge against the frame, pre-drill holes, and screw.
Tataaaah! Should do the trick.

Oh by the way...sounds like your door was hung out of plumb by 1/8 - 3/16 of an inch if there's a 1/4" gap
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Old 04-22-2009, 01:34 PM   #4
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Door Gaps


Quote:
If it IS just a small gap at the bottom, there is usually an adhesive piece of foam (about 2" x 2" tapered towards one side) supplied with the door that you can apply between the jamb and the weather stripping to close that gap. It still allows the door to close properly but pushes the weather stripping out enough to seal the opening.
Id try it this way also. Most home centers and hwd stores have them.



Last edited by Bucky Badger; 04-22-2009 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 04-22-2009, 01:55 PM   #5
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It sounds to me like all you need do is loosen the screws for the top hinge from the jamb and install shims behind the hinge. Playing cards make good shims and reinstall the hinge screws. Center hinge would also have to be shimmed if present.
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Old 04-22-2009, 02:08 PM   #6
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Door Gaps


Quote:
Originally Posted by hayewe farm View Post
It sounds to me like all you need do is loosen the screws for the top hinge from the jamb and install shims behind the hinge. Playing cards make good shims and reinstall the hinge screws. Center hinge would also have to be shimmed if present.
Quote:
At the top of the door it is tight (door against door jamb).
If his door it tight at the top how does this fix the issue? or am i confused?
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Old 04-22-2009, 02:43 PM   #7
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Door Gaps


A shim behind the hinge should work but put it on the bottom. It will bring the door slab closer to the jamb on the bottom
and pull it away from the top. You might have to play with the thickness of the shim. You don't want to much so that the
door now hits the top of the jamb and wont latch correctly. But if your door is warped and latches but still wont touch the
jamb on the bottom then move the door stops as needed so there's a tight fit. Remember to re-nail stops so they don't move
Good luck
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Old 04-22-2009, 02:48 PM   #8
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Door Gaps


So that's what those little foam wedges are for! When I got my house I bought and installed two new doors that came with those things, but I was at a loss what to do with them.
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Old 04-22-2009, 03:42 PM   #9
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Door Gaps


I may be mistaken here, but if you all read his initial post, he does say the the top of the door is up against the door jamb. If that's the case, then the gap at the bottom is not represented by width of the door being out of plumb, but it's top to bottom that's out of plumb and creating the gap, not side to side.

If it was side to side, the first thing he would need to do is make sure there's a "set-screw" in place at the top hinge, which would take care of the door being tight against the jamb at the top, then he should shim the bottom hinge out if need be.

I guess we need to hear back from Story99.
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Old 04-22-2009, 04:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrossWorks View Post
I may be mistaken here, but if you all read his initial post, he does say the the top of the door is up against the door jamb. If that's the case, then the gap at the bottom is not represented by width of the door being out of plumb, but it's top to bottom that's out of plumb and creating the gap, not side to side.

If it was side to side, the first thing he would need to do is make sure there's a "set-screw" in place at the top hinge, which would take care of the door being tight against the jamb at the top, then he should shim the bottom hinge out if need be.

I guess we need to hear back from Story99.
I agree with using a 3inch screw if the door is too tight at the top, but we don't know the reveal at this time. The light at the bottom of the door is usually caused by the threshold pushing on the weatherstrip. We don't know if the Op has the cock roach pads at the bottom of the door.
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Old 04-22-2009, 07:45 PM   #11
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Door Gaps


Door is tight on the hinge side. No weatherstripping, doesn't want any. How old is a door minus weatherstripping?
1910? See daylight at bottom gap, no sweep, threshold probably wood. Use a cresent wrench and bend the hinges.

Be safe, GBAR
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bucky Badger View Post
We don't know if the Op has the cock roach pads at the bottom of the door.
I'm sure glad to be living in Maine!!! cock roach pads!!?? I love it.
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Old 04-22-2009, 11:08 PM   #13
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cock roach pads.....you've got to be kidding me!!!!
20+ years in the field i have never herd that one...wait 'till i tell my next costumer that i need to go to Home dumpo and get some flippin cock roach pads to fix her door gap...yeah that'll be fun
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Old 04-22-2009, 11:47 PM   #14
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Door Gaps


If the gap is at the bottom and the top is tight against the jamb on the knob side, the shiming must be done on the top hindge not the bottom. If the gap is on the side at the bottom the door is either warped, the jamb is not straight and needs to be shimed out at the bottom, or the bottom hinge is mounted to far out and needs to be moved in.


Last edited by hayewe farm; 04-22-2009 at 11:49 PM.
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