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Old 12-08-2009, 10:32 AM   #1
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Door Framing Question


I am in the planning stages of a basement remodel project, and I have a framing related question. I believe the picture below should shed light to my delima.

The project is a 650 s.f. addition to a 1500 s.f. raised ranch with a full basement. The remainder of the basement is the 2 car garage. The basement was studded for a bathroom and a large attached room (not a bedroom, no egress possible) My intention was to apply 1/2 of foam insulation to the poured concrete walls and then frame a wall in front of that to fill with fiberglass insulation. The problem arrises with the door to the bathroom. It is already a very narrow door (32" rough opening for a 2'6" door) and is only 5" from the concrete wall. I would like to nudge the door over a few inches, and open up the span a bit (say, for a 2'8" door). Normally I wouldn't be scared of this project, but since this is a load bearing wall, and has some various mechanical systems threaded through it, I need help. You'll see in the picture that there is a large return air duct, an A/C line (black hose), and the drain line from the upstairs bathroom. The A/C line and air duct should not be a problem, I've got soffit plans for the bathroom ceiling to stash them. The A/C line i believe has enough slack in it to just push it over to the left a few inches. What I don't know about is if it would be considered kosher to cut out the the 2x12 header plate around the drain line, or if for structure, it has to be left untouched, and I have to re-route the drain.

The floor joists above change direction behind this wall. You'll notice that in the foreground they run perpendicular to the wall in question, but behind that wall they are parallel. That said, its is my understanding that I can build a temporary wall about 2 feet in front of the wall I'm working on to support the floor above until all of the door reframing is complete.

Thanks in advance for all of your help, and any advice those of you with more experience can pass along.

Oh, and sorry for the poor quality image...it was the best my iPhone could do on short notice this morning. If its not clear enough, I'll track down the the digital camera tonight.

-J
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Last edited by biggidybankston; 12-10-2009 at 11:59 AM. Reason: grammar error
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Old 12-08-2009, 11:32 AM   #2
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Door Framing Question


Build the temporary wall as said, then move the door over. The inside stud and trimmer (support) can nail between the PEX line and the sewer line, giving you about 6-7" more. Drop the same header down at the correct level (existing lowest horizontal 2x4 flat) to clear the sewer line above it. Add longer cripple studs (short upright) above the header instead of all the filler below as existing. Even if you need to go to 2-2x6's header (smaller), it would still support a 34" span, with 2 floors above, with cripple studs above under the joists. Unless there is a point load directly on the header, then stay with 2-2x10's and a post on the header.http://ftp.resource.org/bsc.ca.gov/t...2_page0376.pdf

Be safe, Gary

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Old 12-10-2009, 11:57 AM   #3
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Thanks for the help. I'll try to post the "after" pics when its done.

-J
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Old 12-10-2009, 12:53 PM   #4
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May want to read about the 1/2" foam.......... http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...gs?full_view=1

Waiting for the pictures...
Be safe, Gary
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Old 12-10-2009, 01:26 PM   #5
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Thanks GBR,
I was under the impression I needed the foam as a vapor barrier, but after reading over the article I noticed that I don't want to block moisture from the concrete (trap it would be a better word) but instead let it slowly escape into the room. Would I be better served to completely eliminate the foam, or use a foam without a facing? I'll be putting fiberglass insulation in the wall, so I wasn't planning the foam for its R value to begin with.

If it matters, the basement is otherwise dry as a bone. Out here in paulding co. we recieved the brunt of the floods that came through the atl area this summer, and we never got a hint of water. To top it off, the ejector pump in the septic tank that just the other side of this wall failed during the rainy period, and the whole business overflowed into the yard for two weeks while repairs were ongoing. All that to say...the ground out there was as wet as it could be all summer, but we stayed high and dry inside the basement.

Although I'm not too concerned about moisture, I still want it done right so that no future owner has to suffer the consequences of my shortcuts (unlike the previous home owner who's septic decisions led to the beforementioned septic problems)

Can anyone shed any light as to what I should do about the walls? Everything I've read up to this point indicated that I should use the foam, but the artical GBR referenced seemed to indicate otherwise.

-J
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