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-   -   Do i need a header for 24 by 24 octagon window (http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/do-i-need-header-24-24-octagon-window-55979/)

edfromma 10-26-2009 11:52 AM

Do i need a header for 24 by 24 octagon window
 
2x4 studs in my house are spaced 16 o.c.

i'd like to install octagon windows on the sides of the fireplace and was wondering if I need a built up header. I would have two studs 24 inches apart for the window opening. gettting different opinions from different people.

Scuba_Dave 10-26-2009 11:57 AM

I usually put a header in, especially if I have to cut a stud
My last octagon window I did not, gable end - not load bearing

Is it a load bearing wall ?

edfromma 10-26-2009 01:10 PM

it is on the gable end. on each side of fireplace. im thinking i dont need to put a header in (and would rather not so that I dont need to move electrical etc.

Gary in WA 10-26-2009 01:39 PM

Nope. You only need a header if your span is 2'6" which is roof, ceiling, and one center bearing floor on a big house. Your joists probably run parallel to the ceiling joists, so all you would be carrying is the gable weight. With just a roof above, you could frame that wall with studs 24" on center.

http://www.burlington.org/Building08/Spans.pdf
Be safe, Gary

edfromma 10-26-2009 02:08 PM

This would be on the first floor of a 2 story cape. you are correct that the joists below and in the ceiling above run paralell to each other.

12penny 10-26-2009 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edfromma (Post 345585)
2x4 studs in my house are spaced 16 o.c.

i'd like to install octagon windows on the sides of the fireplace and was wondering if I need a built up header. I would have two studs 24 inches apart for the window opening. gettting different opinions from different people.


Ed...the way I understand this, is your studs are currently 16oc. Your going to take off the drywall and reframe 24oc to fit your window. Why wouldnt you install a header for a few dollars more and do it right the first time?

edfromma 10-26-2009 02:25 PM

electrical
 
you are correct on the framing and i would install a header but.....

ive got a wire that will need to be moved that runs from the ceiling down to an outlet where it ends and its notched into the top plate, right where the header would go. unless i can snake it through the header with a channel cut through the plywood, it needs to be moved.

Willie T 10-26-2009 02:37 PM

Am I wrong in seeing this as a couple of 32" oc wide openings if he removes a section of stud for each window? This is a finished house, right? It's picky, but doesn't that put him 1/2" into being illegal?

edfromma 10-26-2009 02:42 PM

this is going into an existing wall. the wall is currently studs spaced 16 oc but this section will now be 24 oc.

Willie T 10-26-2009 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edfromma (Post 345643)
this is going into an existing wall. the wall is currently studs spaced 16 oc but this section will now be 24 oc.

But an unsupported 24" oc? Basically just two short lengths of 2x4 hanging in the wall on screws through the D/W? True, if spaced off one of the existing studs, it would be only one short 2x4 in there.

edfromma 10-26-2009 02:48 PM

correct.

Willie T 10-26-2009 02:53 PM

Inspected, I guess they COULD nail you on the 2'-6" max Gary mentioned, but it certainly doesn't sound dangerous to my uneducated eye.

But wouldn't slipping a header and sill in there make for much studier fastening for the window?

edfromma 10-26-2009 02:58 PM

sorry..i mised the last part of your previous response. these studs will be nailed into the top and bottom plates. i guess they would be considered supported. id like to get it inspected jsut to be on the safe side so Id like to be within code.

Willie T 10-26-2009 03:03 PM

I guess what I'm really trying to say is that I would think you would want to build a frame (at least a square one) all the way around the windows to anchor them into. This would necessitate installing header and sill... No?

Willie T 10-26-2009 04:12 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Here's how I'm seeing the choices.... Red's not too cool. Green's better. Blue gives best support, and keeps inspectors happier.


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