Cutting Trim around stairs - DIY Chatroom

gobucks · 03-17-2009, 01:12 PM

I'm trying to install some casing below the edges of the hand rail that I have on my stairs. Cutting the side peices seems fairly straightforward, but I'm having trouble trying to get the bottom peice (end of stairs below the rail) to match up to the side pieces. I've tried mitering but that doesn't seem to work. Due to the angle the side peices end up much lower down the wall than the end peice. Any suggestions?

Here is a picture to try to explain what I'm working with...

12penny · 03-17-2009, 02:33 PM

gobucks.....not sure I can explain it here so I built you a mock up. Of course your dimensions will be different but you get the idea. Actually four pieces of trim, not two. Hope it helps.

**thekctermite** · 03-17-2009, 03:27 PM

You're dealing with a compound miter. You'll lay the casing flat on the miter saw and set the miter to the angle of the wall, then set the compound cut to 45 degrees. If you don't have a compound miter saw you'll need to rent or borrow one.

12penny's method will let you do it without a compound cut and just a miter, but will look a little less professional (albeit more DIYer friendly). No offense 12penny...That is a great mockup and is a nice thing of you to do that!

OutToPasture · 03-17-2009, 03:50 PM

Although "12 pennies" idea will work. And qudos to him for taking the time to make a mock up for you.
It will be much faster and a cleaner look if you go with the compound cut.
The way I always did it is cut your two long boards first then connect them with the bottom short piece. That way you can sand the miters perfect.

OutToPasture · 03-17-2009, 03:54 PM

Sorry 12 but look at your piece #3 his railing has no horisontal spots on it except the bottom face. After he gets around the corner.

Solution= get yourself a compound miter saw or a contractor

gobucks · 03-17-2009, 07:41 PM

Thanks everyone - and thanks for the mockup 12penny.

drtbk4ever · 03-17-2009, 08:09 PM

I have nothing constructive to add.

But I did want to say Holy Cow Batman, good job on the Extra Effort 12penny.

12penny · 03-17-2009, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OutToPasture

Although "12 pennies" idea will work. And qudos to him for taking the time to make a mock up for you.
It will be much faster and a cleaner look if you go with the compound cut.
The way I always did it is cut your two long boards first then connect them with the bottom short piece. That way you can sand the miters perfect.

The way you always did it where? Go try it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by thekctermite

You're dealing with a compound miter. You'll lay the casing flat on the miter saw and set the miter to the angle of the wall, then set the compound cut to 45 degrees. If you don't have a compound miter saw you'll need to rent or borrow one.
12penny's method will let you do it without a compound cut and just a miter, but will look a little less professional (albeit more DIYer friendly). No offense 12penny...That is a great mockup and is a nice thing of you to do that!

seriously, go try it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OutToPasture

Sorry 12 but look at your piece #3 his railing has no horisontal spots on it except the bottom face. After he gets around the corner.

Solution= get yourself a compound miter saw or a contractor

I did tell him that his dimensions would be different than shown. Obviously the fit needs to be tweeked. This a DIY forum, without getting into the whole "what tools do you have thing" I offered advise anyone, regardless of his/her ability to pay $300 for a saw, could learn from.

And really, try to cut that joint. I've got two compound miter saws and neither of them can do it. The 45 compound miter cut is too long and will not mate to the short piece at the end of the wall. Something about changing planes. The only way to do it is to transition into it. If I'm missing something please post a picture. Never too old to learn.

Willie T · 03-17-2009, 11:50 PM

You can get what your are looking for if you are either using plain stock, or have the capability of cutting your own molding profiles.

The reason is shown here. There is no way around the fact that these are two different widths of boards.

It's an easy set-up and simple cut. But it takes two size boards to do it the way you seem to want to.

Even if you could use a router to cut some attractive grooves in plain stock, you will have to use a slightly wider (but not deeper) width groove on the end piece for them to match perfectly.

Phuture · 03-18-2009, 01:27 AM

i have to agree with 12d. compound or no compound mitre. because of the angle the caseing comeing down the stairs is cut at you can't make this joint. if you want to dress up the hand rail your best bet would be flat material.

Phuture · 03-18-2009, 01:33 AM

come to think of it.....if you take 12penny's #3 piece and start the mitre for your front piece where #s 1'2' and 3 meet on the top' it would work nicely. a little tricky; but works.

12penny · 03-18-2009, 09:06 AM

Its the only way. But I'm afraid we've lost the OP. Probably the best way to handle it would be to return it to the wall and not bother going around the corner.

gobucks · 03-18-2009, 09:25 AM

Thanks everyone. I'll give it a shot trying something along the lines of 12penny's mockup and let you know how it goes.

**AtlanticWBConst.** · 03-18-2009, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 12penny

gobucks.....not sure I can explain it here so I built you a mock up. Of course your dimensions will be different but you get the idea. Actually four pieces of trim, not two. Hope it helps.

Nice Picture Layout