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Old 12-03-2011, 10:01 PM   #46
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Out of pure coincedence my supports are 7' on center. 9' measured diagonally along the stringer but 7' going level. Things are working out. And the stairs stiffened right up with the posts

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Old 12-03-2011, 10:11 PM   #47
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Out of pure coincedence my supports are 7' on center. 9' measured diagonally along the stringer but 7' going level. Things are working out. And the stairs stiffened right up with the posts
Check to be sure that's legal without a landing. (If I'm reading you right.)
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Old 12-03-2011, 10:21 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
This should clear things up a little; pp.17-need risers, fig. 27 max. stringer span 7'; 5"min, throat, 16'6" max. closed stringer span; pp.2- table 1; fig.31- top stringer hanger required; fig.34- post footing depth to reduce stringer span; ect. etc.
http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf

And, always check locally for amendments to codes.

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Good catch Gary…….no southern pine in Oregon so the 13’3” would apply for a free span. A mid span support would negate that though. For a long run like that I will use 3 or 4X PT stock which I know is readily available in Oregon but is a special order pita where I’m living at now.
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Old 12-03-2011, 10:36 PM   #49
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Check to be sure that's legal without a landing. (If I'm reading you right.)
Landing isn't needed but I'm going to check with the ahj to go over everything just to make sure of everything
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Old 12-03-2011, 10:45 PM   #50
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Just in case, here are the other two views.
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Old 12-05-2011, 12:18 PM   #51
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Met with the building inspector, he said 11' on the landing, which I'm not over. He also said my supports are good. So evetything is fine.
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Old 12-05-2011, 07:01 PM   #52
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Great!
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:09 PM   #53
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Only thing that threw me for a loop was he says I need a grippable habdrail and the 2x4 i will have on top will be too wide. So I'm gonna need to fabricate something to come off my rail
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Old 12-05-2011, 10:15 PM   #54
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Just install a grippable rail right on top of your 2x4.
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Old 12-05-2011, 10:41 PM   #55
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Just install a grippable rail right on top of your 2x4.
That looks retarded in imo Willie.
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Old 12-05-2011, 10:53 PM   #56
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Pages 18, 19---- fig. 32a, 32b, and 33: http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf Again......


I'll bet you didn't read it all, Lol.

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Old 12-05-2011, 10:53 PM   #57
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That looks retarded in imo Willie.
I thought about doing that just for my inspection and then removing it, but id rather just have something permanent, so its never an issue. My neighbor is in welding school and likes little projects, might just have him weld me some stainless brackets and atatch a 2x2 that's been routered. Neighbor doesn't charge me anything, not even materials
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Old 12-05-2011, 11:45 PM   #58
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I use 2x3 Clear Cedar for exterior grab rails with a ¾” round over on all edges. Mounted with aluminum brackets (I wish I could get them in SS) just like an interior railing.

I’ll actually rip the 2x3 to 2 ¼” wide because I think the 2 ½” wide is just a little much for a grab rail where 2 ¼” feels perfect to me.
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:50 AM   #59
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I've seen people using 1-1/2" galvanized pipe here in Chicago.

They use a floor flange and an elbow to start off and a tee for the joints.

Much more durable than 2x2 or 2x3 IMO.
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Old 12-06-2011, 05:57 PM   #60
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If I was going to go the steel route I would just weld the whole thing up, but time and money are both short

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