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12-03-2011, 10:01 PM
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#46
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liscenced electrician
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Oregon coast
Posts: 945
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cutting stair stringers
Out of pure coincedence my supports are 7' on center. 9' measured diagonally along the stringer but 7' going level. Things are working out. And the stairs stiffened right up with the posts
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12-03-2011, 10:11 PM
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#47
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Old School
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: St. Petersburg, FL Minds of moderate caliber ordinarily condemn everything which is beyond them.
Posts: 3,089
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cutting stair stringers
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmy21
Out of pure coincedence my supports are 7' on center. 9' measured diagonally along the stringer but 7' going level. Things are working out. And the stairs stiffened right up with the posts
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Check to be sure that's legal without a landing. (If I'm reading you right.)
__________________
"True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is."
François Duc de La Rochefoucauld
Willie T
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12-03-2011, 10:21 PM
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#48
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Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Kansas/Oregon Coast
Posts: 4,520
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cutting stair stringers
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA
This should clear things up a little; pp.17-need risers, fig. 27 max. stringer span 7'; 5"min, throat, 16'6" max. closed stringer span; pp.2- table 1; fig.31- top stringer hanger required; fig.34- post footing depth to reduce stringer span; ect. etc.
http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf
And, always check locally for amendments to codes.
Gary |
Good catch Gary…….no southern pine in Oregon so the 13’3” would apply for a free span. A mid span support would negate that though. For a long run like that I will use 3 or 4X PT stock which I know is readily available in Oregon but is a special order pita where I’m living at now.
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12-03-2011, 10:36 PM
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#49
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liscenced electrician
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Oregon coast
Posts: 945
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cutting stair stringers
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie T
Check to be sure that's legal without a landing. (If I'm reading you right.)
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Landing isn't needed but I'm going to check with the ahj to go over everything just to make sure of everything
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12-03-2011, 10:45 PM
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#50
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Old School
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: St. Petersburg, FL Minds of moderate caliber ordinarily condemn everything which is beyond them.
Posts: 3,089
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cutting stair stringers
Just in case, here are the other two views.
__________________
"True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is."
François Duc de La Rochefoucauld
Willie T
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12-05-2011, 12:18 PM
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#51
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liscenced electrician
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Oregon coast
Posts: 945
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cutting stair stringers
Met with the building inspector, he said 11' on the landing, which I'm not over. He also said my supports are good. So evetything is fine.
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12-05-2011, 07:01 PM
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#52
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Old School
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: St. Petersburg, FL Minds of moderate caliber ordinarily condemn everything which is beyond them.
Posts: 3,089
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cutting stair stringers
Great!
__________________
"True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is."
François Duc de La Rochefoucauld
Willie T
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12-05-2011, 09:09 PM
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#53
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liscenced electrician
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Oregon coast
Posts: 945
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cutting stair stringers
Only thing that threw me for a loop was he says I need a grippable habdrail and the 2x4 i will have on top will be too wide. So I'm gonna need to fabricate something to come off my rail
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12-05-2011, 10:15 PM
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#54
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Old School
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: St. Petersburg, FL Minds of moderate caliber ordinarily condemn everything which is beyond them.
Posts: 3,089
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cutting stair stringers
Just install a grippable rail right on top of your 2x4.
__________________
"True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is."
François Duc de La Rochefoucauld
Willie T
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12-05-2011, 10:41 PM
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#55
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Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Kansas/Oregon Coast
Posts: 4,520
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cutting stair stringers
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie T
Just install a grippable rail right on top of your 2x4.
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That looks retarded in imo Willie.
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12-05-2011, 10:53 PM
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#56
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Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,780
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cutting stair stringers
Pages 18, 19---- fig. 32a, 32b, and 33: http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf Again......
I'll bet you didn't read it all, Lol.
Gary
__________________
Clothes taking longer to dry?
Clean the dryer screen in HOT water if using fabric softener sheets.
They leave a residue that impedes air-flow, costing you money.
Clean the ducting in the last six months? 17,000 dryer fires annually!
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12-05-2011, 10:53 PM
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#57
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liscenced electrician
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Oregon coast
Posts: 945
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cutting stair stringers
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwikfishron
That looks retarded in imo Willie.
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I thought about doing that just for my inspection and then removing it, but id rather just have something permanent, so its never an issue. My neighbor is in welding school and likes little projects, might just have him weld me some stainless brackets and atatch a 2x2 that's been routered. Neighbor doesn't charge me anything, not even materials
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12-05-2011, 11:45 PM
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#58
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Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Kansas/Oregon Coast
Posts: 4,520
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cutting stair stringers
I use 2x3 Clear Cedar for exterior grab rails with a ¾” round over on all edges. Mounted with aluminum brackets (I wish I could get them in SS) just like an interior railing.
I’ll actually rip the 2x3 to 2 ¼” wide because I think the 2 ½” wide is just a little much for a grab rail where 2 ¼” feels perfect to me.
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12-06-2011, 10:50 AM
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#59
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Chicago Illinois
Posts: 185
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cutting stair stringers
I've seen people using 1-1/2" galvanized pipe here in Chicago.
They use a floor flange and an elbow to start off and a tee for the joints.
Much more durable than 2x2 or 2x3 IMO.
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12-06-2011, 05:57 PM
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#60
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liscenced electrician
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Oregon coast
Posts: 945
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cutting stair stringers
If I was going to go the steel route I would just weld the whole thing up, but time and money are both short
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