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-   -   Cutting maple butcher block with skill saw (http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/cutting-maple-butcher-block-skill-saw-156976/)

jep 09-16-2012 01:56 PM

Cutting maple butcher block with skill saw
 
I would like to trim the end of a 9 foot long maple butcher block. To make my plan work out I need to cut a thin wedge off that starts off at 3/8" and angles down to zero. The only saw that I have that might be up to this is a skill saw which has a carbide blade that says it is for "two sided melamine, veneer, and fine cross cut". Would trimming a butcher block qualify as "fine cross cut"? The butcher block design is such that I would be cutting across the grain all the way across. I have a piece that came off the end of this that I can do some trial cuts. If I can avoid flipping it over I will. I've taped the line I want to cut along on the trial piece. Will this blade be up to the task?

The brand is Forrest and it says Dura-line High A/T on it.

Oh yes, all comments/suggestions welcomed! I don't want to screw this up!

joecaption 09-16-2012 05:06 PM

Way to many teeth on that blade for that material and that thickness.
It will just over heat the blade and cause it to warp or burn up the saw.
It also needs to be cut from the back side to prevent splinters on the top side.
Just about any framing blade will cut it no trouble.
Any butcher block I've seen is made out of Maple. A really hard material. Hard woods cause a lot of friction to cut so the less teeth the less friction.
More slow when cutting.

Duckweather 09-16-2012 06:03 PM

The trick we were taught in trade school, when you can't cut from the back, was to mark your line using a straight edge and a very sharp pencil. Then cut into the line with a sharp knife, (like a utility or razor knife). Be very careful to keep the saw kerf on the outside of the cut to avoid any splintering. Sand cut smooth with a belt sander.

jep 09-16-2012 06:43 PM

I didn't see these responses before I cut it but thanks! I cut from the top because flipping it would've required more manpower than I could muster. I taped the entire area where the saw was running both to keep the wood from chipping and to keep the saw from scratching the butcher block. I did it in three passes. The first pass about 1/16-1/8". The second was under 1/4". The third pass was all the rest. I tested it on my "scrap" piece and it worked fine for my purposes. I did the same thing on the actual butcher block. It did get a little hot and there was a little burning but the cut edge won't be visible. I think it was slightly hard on the saw but for a one off cut I think it is ok. It'll be years if I ever have to do anything like that again.

Duckweather 09-16-2012 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jep (Post 1011144)
It'll be years if I ever have to do anything like that again.

"Says the spider to the fly."

7echo 09-16-2012 08:40 PM

'The brand is Forrest and it says Dura-line High A/T on it'

That is a high quality blade, btw. Not many guys running a Forrest on their skil saw.

Good to hear the cut went well, congrats.


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