Cutting A 63 Degree Angle On A 2x8 With A Circular Saw - Carpentry - Page 2 - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

 DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum cutting a 63 degree angle on a 2x8 with a circular saw
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07-16-2010, 05:56 PM   #16
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by nap I believe I understand what he is doing. There is no reason to alter the angle of your saw from straight up 90º. If you angle the saw and cut on the edge like you tell, the angle will cut the end of the board at an angle, not bevel the end.

If he has a deck that is not square or rectangular shaped and has an angle on it, the framing is not square at the outside end of the deck where the girder is. The joist at the end have to get cut square and have a 63 degree bevel on it whether it's a dropped girder or flush girder. If the deck was 45 degrees he would set the saw at 45 degrees and cut.

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07-16-2010, 06:00 PM   #17
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Joe Carola After cutting a square cut with no setting on the saw, he can scribe a 63 degree mark on the top and bottom 1-1/2" edges of the 2x8. He ca square the short point of the 63 degree mark as a reference line. With the saw set a 0 he can cut the top and bottom 63 degree lines on edge. The blade will go approximately 2-1/2" down on each side using a 7-1/4" saw giving him roughly 5" cut out of the 2x8 and 2-1/2" left to cut. He can finish that cut with a sawzall or handsaw following the square line from the short points squared mark I said above.
and that is exactly what I was talking about and if he has multiple boards to cut like this, he can stack them 8X side to 8X side and cut the 1 1/2X side. The stack will give him a larger area for his saw, 1 1/2" for each additional board.

So, where do you get setting the saw at 27º for anything?

07-16-2010, 06:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Joe Carola If he has a deck that is not square or rectangular shaped and has an angle on it, the framing is not square at the outside end of the deck where the girder is. The joist at the end have to get cut square and have a 63 degree bevel on it whether it's a dropped girder or flush girder. If the deck was 45 degrees he would set the saw at 45 degrees and cut.
I know what it is used for. It just won't work the way you had said before with setting the saw at 27º and cutting across the edge. That will result in an angle cut of the end of the board, not a bevel.

 07-16-2010, 06:05 PM #19 Member     Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Kansas City/Oregon Coast Posts: 9,832 Rewards Points: 92 I guess I misunderstood, I thought you were talking about running the saw down the 1 ½” butt of the board at a 27 degree angle. That’s how I’d do it anyway but you better know your saw. __________________ A Picture Is Worth A Thousand WordsEspecially In The DIY Chatroom
07-16-2010, 06:10 PM   #20
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by nap I know what it is used for. It just won't work the way you had said before with setting the saw at 27º and cutting across the edge. That will result in an angle cut of the end of the board, not a bevel.
You still don't get it. I don't know what else to tell you. I've cut thousands of joists and rafters the way I've described and it works. Once I bought a 10" Big Foot saw that cuts up to 73 degrees I don't have to do it anymore.

I'll explain it one more time.

Square your 2x8 cut it with the saw set at zero. Now set the saw at 27 degrees. Now turn the saw so that the bottom of the table runs on the 1-1/2" face of the 2x8 (7-1/2" side, maybe that's where your confused)and cut. The end result gives to a 67 degree. Depending on the type of saw you have you might have to finish the cut with a sawzall or handsaw.
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07-16-2010, 06:11 PM   #21
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by kwikfishron I guess I misunderstood, I thought you were talking about running the saw down the 1 ½” butt of the board at a 27 degree angle. That’s how I’d do it anyway but you better know your saw.
That's what I am talking about. Nap doesn't understand that way of doing it.
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 07-16-2010, 06:12 PM #22 You talking to me?     Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: sw mi Posts: 7,551 Rewards Points: 6,290 Oh, now I see what you and carola were talking about. Kind of a whacko way to do it. and unless you clamp up the board so you do have a surface to run the saw on, it is only as accurate as you can hold the saw. If you are going to do that, you might as well use a sawzall. I just wouldn't ever consider doing something that whacko. that's why I could not picture it making any sense.
07-16-2010, 06:19 PM   #23
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by nap Oh, now I see what you and carola were talking about. Kind of a whacko way to do it. and unless you clamp up the board so you do have a surface to run the saw on, it is only as accurate as you can hold the saw. If you are going to do that, you might as well use a sawzall. I just wouldn't ever consider doing something that whacko. that's why I could not picture it making any sense.
It's a simple easy cut to make. Your making a big deal over nothing. That's why you consider it whacko. Anyone can make this simple cut. Obviously your not experienced enough yet. Learn how to use a circular saw first before you consider it a whacko way to do it.
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 07-16-2010, 06:25 PM #24 Member     Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Kansas City/Oregon Coast Posts: 9,832 Rewards Points: 92 It’s not whacko and it’s not the only way to get that 67 degrees but it’s the fast way. If I had a pile of them to do I’d be stackin and clampin and gasin up the Stihl. __________________ A Picture Is Worth A Thousand WordsEspecially In The DIY Chatroom Last edited by kwikfishron; 07-16-2010 at 06:29 PM.
07-16-2010, 06:53 PM   #25
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by kwikfishron It’s not whacko and it’s not the only way to get that 67 degrees but it’s the fast way. If I had a pile of them to do I’d be stackin and clampin and gasin up the Stihl.

I've been using a Bigfoot saw for many years now. It cuts up to 75 degrees with a swing table. I said 73 degrees before. Check out their chainsaw adapter.

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/459625..._888_798_4499/
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07-16-2010, 07:17 PM   #26
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Joe Carola I've been using a Bigfoot saw for many years now. It cuts up to 75 degrees with a swing table. I said 73 degrees before. Check out their chainsaw adapter. http://www.metacafe.com/watch/459625..._888_798_4499/
I got a BF couldn't live without it. Don't have the super table though.
Really don’t deal with those angles that often.
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 07-16-2010, 07:39 PM #27 Member     Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Kansas City/Oregon Coast Posts: 9,832 Rewards Points: 92 This is what I really use for a stack of 67’s. http://www.google.com/products/catal...CAcQ8wIwADgA#p Can’t live without this one either. Three 4x stringers at the same time. Done it with the Stihl too, just seeing if could get some reaction to “chainsaw framing”. __________________ A Picture Is Worth A Thousand WordsEspecially In The DIY Chatroom
07-16-2010, 07:43 PM   #28
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by kwikfishron This is what I really use for a stack of 67’s. http://www.google.com/products/catal...CAcQ8wIwADgA#p Can’t live without this one either. Three 4x stringers at the same time. Done it with the Stihl too, just seeing if could get some reaction to “chainsaw framing”.
I have that also. I have it on a makita sidewinder. Quite a few framers use the chainsaw from bigfoot. It works great and has very clean cuts when gang cutting rafters. People who will think it's crazy are the ones who don't know because they've never seen it used before.
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07-16-2010, 08:09 PM   #29
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by kwikfishron This is what I really use for a stack of 67’s. http://www.google.com/products/catal...CAcQ8wIwADgA#p Can’t live without this one either. Three 4x stringers at the same time. Done it with the Stihl too, just seeing if could get some reaction to “chainsaw framing”.
I live near a large Amish community. Your beam saw is small compared to what those guys use and they have this slick little chainsaw jig where they use the chainsaw to cut mortises for stairs and mortise and tenon beam joints. Seen lots of chainsaw carpentry in my neck of the woods.

07-17-2010, 06:48 AM   #30
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Yep it’s a little saw, that’s the beauty of it.

Can't beat if for inside corners if you have a stack of stair jacks or seat cuts to cut.

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Last edited by kwikfishron; 07-17-2010 at 12:38 PM.

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