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markymark 08-11-2005 11:42 AM

custom door jambs
 
I have a rough door opening that will require a jamb wider than the standard 4 9/16 jamb. I estimate that I need about a 4 7/8 jamb. I plan on ripping these myself. Should I use any special stock for this? I just planned on ripping down a 1x6 pine board. Will this work out ok?

JustaFramer 08-11-2005 12:12 PM

With the soft nature of pine I would use 5 quarter x6 pine. Most door stores make the wider jam for the double layer sheet rock or ply/sheet rock wall. This is the reason you need it right? Or maybe lathe and plaster?
A partner of mine built jams for some old doors we restored but I think he use hemfir on the jams. Ask the lumber rep for door jam stock. They actually make it. :D

markymark 08-11-2005 12:20 PM

I actually have 2x4 contruction with 5/8 rock AND its not totaly flush. I guess I could use an expansion jamb. Do you recommend those?

JustaFramer 08-11-2005 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markymark
I actually have 2x4 contruction with 5/8 rock AND its not totaly flush. I guess I could use an expansion jamb. Do you recommend those?

I never used a expansion jamb. I have built out a jamb before on a old house with l&p and stucco when the home owner bought the wrong size jamb. It was tiered though.
One thing you can do is set one side flush. Then fill the otherside flush with wood and bondo the seam. Did that before on painted jambs. No one would ever know except you. :cool:

JustaFramer 08-15-2005 03:26 PM

I was at a box store on saturday. I was in the trim isle and seen some jamb stock. There was 3/4 or 5 quarter pine stock and hemfir stock.
So you can use pine on hollow core doors only.

Teetorbilt 08-15-2005 10:39 PM

Use the grade B+ and pick through the stock carefully, better yet, go to a local lumber yard. If you don't know how to 'read' a board, you should hire a pro.

KenTheHandyMan 09-01-2005 11:26 PM

If you have a router and the bits, you can actually tongue and groove your own jamb extensions, but if not, I wouldn't recommend just tacking them on because you have to remember that they actually serve a purpose. The casing is nailed to them and that helps strengthen the jamb.

Here's the thing about building your own jambs: You can make them better than most of the jams you get in your local home improvement warehouse because you can cut rabbits in the ends and use screws instead of staples. But, like Teetorbilt said, you should know what to look for when selecting your stock. If this is stain-grade, I would recommend maybe Poplar. It's a bit harder than pine, but is a little more expensive.

jjlanew 12-28-2006 11:14 PM

door jam material
 
Has anyone tried glueing two 3/4" MDF boards together for a door jam? I don't know if MDF is stong enough to hold the door in place. I have old wooden doors in 2" door jams that are 1/2 short on either end from new drywall. I want to keep the old wooden doors and want to replace the door jams. The last time I built a door jam I used 2x8 pine boards. Any comments.

AtlanticWBConst. 12-29-2006 04:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jjlanew (Post 28094)
Has anyone tried glueing two 3/4" MDF boards together for a door jam? I don't know if MDF is stong enough to hold the door in place. I have old wooden doors in 2" door jams that are 1/2 short on either end from new drywall. I want to keep the old wooden doors and want to replace the door jams. The last time I built a door jam I used 2x8 pine boards. Any comments.


Aside from the fact that this thread has laid 'dormant' for 3 months:

I would NOT recommend using any kind of MDF ... for door jams.

KenTheHandyMan 12-29-2006 10:04 AM

Try 1 YEAR and 3 months. ;)


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