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Old 12-28-2010, 10:01 PM   #31
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Yes, I do stairs full time, but I also do custom mantels and wainscoting.

There is not a center support on that one. I designed it to have a 54" foot on the outside stringer and deep risers. I had to explain to the structural who I was required to review it what having a large foot and deep risers have to do with reducing bounce, but thats another story...

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Old 12-29-2010, 12:49 PM   #32
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Some very nice stair work in this thread. I'm very impressed.

Do you guys laminate your handrails also? or do you use the tangent method with solid pieces?

I've got a book that tries to teach the tangent handrail method and It just makes me go .
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Old 12-29-2010, 04:36 PM   #33
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I do mostly custom work, so I do what I think will work the best of each application. Here is a link to some tangent handrail work http://picasaweb.google.com/SeattleF...drailFittings#.

David,

Given the drawing you sent and making a couple of assumptions a single point radius stair will not fit. What you would need is either to modify the framing to push the header farther into the room or make an elliptical stair, something I don't think you may be up for...

To get an idea of what you need to do to design a single point stair is to take your room opening and decide how much space you want between the wall and the side of the stair. That will determine your outside radius. Then pick a tread width, 36" is the minimum. From there you will know your inside radius. Code dictates that all treads must have the same run at 12" from the inside face of the inside stringer.

In your case you have a room which is 127" wide. If we set the stair 6" from the wall on both sides you have an outside radius of 57 1/2" (57.5x2 plus 2x6"= 127). Subtracting 36" for the treads gives and inside radius of only 21 1/2". If we overlook the thickness of the stringer and simply add 12" to 21 1/2" to get walkline radius we get 33 1/2". Your stated total rise is 104" which is 14 risers @ 7 7/16" thus 13 treads. This means we need 130" of travel at the walkline (10" x 13 treads) with a 33 1/2" radius.

33.5"(2∏r)= 210 1/2"(that is the total circumference of the circle)130"=.617577X360=222.3 of a circle, which is 42 more than the 180 you were looking for. If you draw the circle starting at the edge of the wall you labeled #3 you extend into the room only 57 1/2" but exceed the wall length on wall #1 by a good 2 feet. The upper framing is not shown so I don't know if you would also have headroom issues.

Last edited by Keith Mathewson; 12-29-2010 at 04:40 PM.
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Old 12-29-2010, 05:04 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith mathewson View Post
i do mostly custom work, so i do what i think will work the best of each application. Here is a link to some tangent handrail work http://picasaweb.google.com/seattlef...drailfittings#.

David,

given the drawing you sent and making a couple of assumptions a single point radius stair will not fit. What you would need is either to modify the framing to push the header farther into the room or make an elliptical stair, something i don't think you may be up for...

To get an idea of what you need to do to design a single point stair is to take your room opening and decide how much space you want between the wall and the side of the stair. That will determine your outside radius. Then pick a tread width, 36" is the minimum. From there you will know your inside radius. Code dictates that all treads must have the same run at 12" from the inside face of the inside stringer.

In your case you have a room which is 127" wide. If we set the stair 6" from the wall on both sides you have an outside radius of 57 1/2" (57.5x2 plus 2x6"= 127). Subtracting 36" for the treads gives and inside radius of only 21 1/2". If we overlook the thickness of the stringer and simply add 12" to 21 1/2" to get walkline radius we get 33 1/2". Your stated total rise is 104" which is 14 risers @ 7 7/16" thus 13 treads. This means we need 130" of travel at the walkline (10" x 13 treads) with a 33 1/2" radius.

33.5"(2∏r)= 210 1/2"(that is the total circumference of the circle)130"=.617577x360=222.3 of a circle, which is 42 more than the 180 you were looking for. If you draw the circle starting at the edge of the wall you labeled #3 you extend into the room only 57 1/2" but exceed the wall length on wall #1 by a good 2 feet. The upper framing is not shown so i don't know if you would also have headroom issues.
o my good what!!
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Old 12-29-2010, 05:22 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Mathewson View Post
I do mostly custom work, so I do what I think will work the best of each application. Here is a link to some tangent handrail work http://picasaweb.google.com/SeattleF...drailFittings#.

David,

Given the drawing you sent and making a couple of assumptions a single point radius stair will not fit. What you would need is either to modify the framing to push the header farther into the room or make an elliptical stair, something I don't think you may be up for...

To get an idea of what you need to do to design a single point stair is to take your room opening and decide how much space you want between the wall and the side of the stair. That will determine your outside radius. Then pick a tread width, 36" is the minimum. From there you will know your inside radius. Code dictates that all treads must have the same run at 12" from the inside face of the inside stringer.

In your case you have a room which is 127" wide. If we set the stair 6" from the wall on both sides you have an outside radius of 57 1/2" (57.5x2 plus 2x6"= 127). Subtracting 36" for the treads gives and inside radius of only 21 1/2". If we overlook the thickness of the stringer and simply add 12" to 21 1/2" to get walkline radius we get 33 1/2". Your stated total rise is 104" which is 14 risers @ 7 7/16" thus 13 treads. This means we need 130" of travel at the walkline (10" x 13 treads) with a 33 1/2" radius.

33.5"(2∏r)= 210 1/2"(that is the total circumference of the circle)130"=.617577X360=222.3 of a circle, which is 42 more than the 180 you were looking for. If you draw the circle starting at the edge of the wall you labeled #3 you extend into the room only 57 1/2" but exceed the wall length on wall #1 by a good 2 feet. The upper framing is not shown so I don't know if you would also have headroom issues.
Keith, you are good buddy, that takes some fine talent and much smarts to create a wreath block fitting like you have. That takes some patience and know how. The way I got away from making fittings as you have is to horizontal laminate the rail. I know that isn't as professional as the way you do it but it did work for me. Just beautiful!

I can sure say one thing, there are some of the finest stair men here as I have ever seen before, you guys are good.
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Old 12-29-2010, 07:30 PM   #36
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Thanks, that's very kind of you to say so.
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Old 12-29-2010, 08:53 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Mathewson View Post
I do mostly custom work, so I do what I think will work the best of each application. Here is a link to some tangent handrail work http://picasaweb.google.com/SeattleF...drailFittings#.

David,

Given the drawing you sent and making a couple of assumptions a single point radius stair will not fit. What you would need is either to modify the framing to push the header farther into the room or make an elliptical stair, something I don't think you may be up for...

To get an idea of what you need to do to design a single point stair is to take your room opening and decide how much space you want between the wall and the side of the stair. That will determine your outside radius. Then pick a tread width, 36" is the minimum. From there you will know your inside radius. Code dictates that all treads must have the same run at 12" from the inside face of the inside stringer.

In your case you have a room which is 127" wide. If we set the stair 6" from the wall on both sides you have an outside radius of 57 1/2" (57.5x2 plus 2x6"= 127). Subtracting 36" for the treads gives and inside radius of only 21 1/2". If we overlook the thickness of the stringer and simply add 12" to 21 1/2" to get walkline radius we get 33 1/2". Your stated total rise is 104" which is 14 risers @ 7 7/16" thus 13 treads. This means we need 130" of travel at the walkline (10" x 13 treads) with a 33 1/2" radius.

33.5"(2∏r)= 210 1/2"(that is the total circumference of the circle)130"=.617577X360=222.3 of a circle, which is 42 more than the 180 you were looking for. If you draw the circle starting at the edge of the wall you labeled #3 you extend into the room only 57 1/2" but exceed the wall length on wall #1 by a good 2 feet. The upper framing is not shown so I don't know if you would also have headroom issues.
Keith what would you do if you only had the space allotted ??
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Old 12-30-2010, 10:22 PM   #38
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Keith what would you do if you only had the space allotted ??
Keith are you still alive ???
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Old 12-30-2010, 10:27 PM   #39
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family night.
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Old 12-30-2010, 10:31 PM   #40
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family night.
O! sorry take care ..
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Old 12-30-2010, 10:33 PM   #41
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O! sorry take care..
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Old 12-31-2010, 03:57 AM   #42
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wow nice work guys.

The only circular stairs i've built, and this may be the method for a DIY, was not an open set of stairs.

You need to read up on how to do the layout, just remember to put it on paper, layout so that you know exactly how many risers/treads you will have, figure out your radius,etc. layout on floor..

when we did it we framed one wall(closed side of stairs, full height wall) and built the stairs into the wall, no stringers. Ditto for the other side, framed each tread/riser into the wall, only this wall wasn't full height, was supporting stairs.

For the walls use doubled up plywood for plates, you can cut with a skillsaw set to shallow depth.

One way of doing it anyways that might work for you if the application is right, easier for a novice than some of the expert work on here, which I think takes years of specialization to become good at.

Other way with closed/semi closed stairs is creating stringers out of quarter inch material, laminating, etc. Buy a few practice pieces.

good luck.
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Old 12-31-2010, 07:29 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by chrisBC View Post
wow nice work guys.

The only circular stairs i've built, and this may be the method for a DIY, was not an open set of stairs.

You need to read up on how to do the layout, just remember to put it on paper, layout so that you know exactly how many risers/treads you will have, figure out your radius,etc. layout on floor..

when we did it we framed one wall(closed side of stairs, full height wall) and built the stairs into the wall, no stringers. Ditto for the other side, framed each tread/riser into the wall, only this wall wasn't full height, was supporting stairs.

For the walls use doubled up plywood for plates, you can cut with a skillsaw set to shallow depth.

One way of doing it anyways that might work for you if the application is right, easier for a novice than some of the expert work on here, which I think takes years of specialization to become good at.

Other way with closed/semi closed stairs is creating stringers out of quarter inch material, laminating, etc. Buy a few practice pieces.

good luck.
do you have any photos ???
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Old 12-31-2010, 09:57 AM   #44
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Without seeing your layout of the room it is hard to see you options here. The most important thing to do here is to see if the room will accomidate what you want to do. Often times walls and headers need to be moved to allow for such stairs. Sometimes people thing curved stairs are a way of making a room bigger however it is quite the opposite.
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Old 12-31-2010, 01:42 PM   #45
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sorry David no pics, I actually built it in trade school, 4th year carpentry. Picture one wall full height (to ceiling) next wall came to stair height, as in built to support stairs, I hope that makes sense..

only other thing with this method too I should mention is keep in mind drywalling the curved wall...

I guess you need the right application for this to work-as in if you want open stairs you are going to have to go for another method, this just strikes me as a good basic way to built the stairs, and for someone with decent skill not to get over their head.


Good luck..

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