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Old 02-23-2011, 07:15 PM   #1
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curved raised panels


I need to make some curved raised panels on a curved balcony header. It is a juliet balcony and will be receiving the panels on the face of it. The rails and stiles are not a problem but are there any tricks for forming the actual panels. They will be paint grade. About a 5' radius.

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Old 02-23-2011, 09:37 PM   #2
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I need to make some curved raised panels on a curved balcony header. It is a juliet balcony and will be receiving the panels on the face of it. The rails and stiles are not a problem but are there any tricks for forming the actual panels. They will be paint grade. About a 5' radius.
If I were making them to paint I would go with two layers of 3/8 inch bending plywood. Make a form and glue the two 3/8 layers together and it will hold it's curve. Since it paints you can fill, sand and paint the porous plywood to look good.

I want to see what others would do to make curved panels.

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Old 02-23-2011, 09:55 PM   #3
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I would have to say that curved raised panels are WAY outside the DIY range. They can be made a couple of different ways but without a shaper I don't know how you would profile them.
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Old 02-24-2011, 06:05 AM   #4
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are you talking about wacky wood? I work in a stair shop so I have access to shapers. I was just trying to get a few different ideas on how to approach this.
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Old 02-24-2011, 08:23 AM   #5
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....how about azek sheet goods. Bends, holds paint and machines well.
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:54 AM   #6
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azek...that was my 1st thought. i know the 1/2" is pretty flexible
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:09 PM   #7
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Bending plywood: http://www.packardforestproducts.com...g_plywood.html
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Old 02-24-2011, 01:09 PM   #8
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Ditto on the bending plywood.
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Old 02-24-2011, 02:15 PM   #9
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I think azek would hold up to the elements better
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Old 02-24-2011, 07:53 PM   #10
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I would only use bending ply if I wasn't the one who had to finish it.

Since you work in a stair shop I'm guessing you have access to a resaw bandsaw and vacuum bags. I would resaw poplar to about 1/4" and plane them to about 3/16" then bag them over a form. Trim to size and profile them.
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Old 02-24-2011, 08:09 PM   #11
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I dont have the vacuum bags nor have i ever used them. Everything I laminate is usually solid wood ( no veneers) and clamped. Are using these vacuum bags a better way to do this? I have seen them used in small applications before but I am not very familiar with them.
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Old 02-24-2011, 08:44 PM   #12
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The bags are used because they exert even pressure during the glue-up. Once you use vacuum bags you won't want to do a job like this with clamps again

You can do the same thing with a form, clamping cauls and 1/4 mdf and a lot of clamps. Keep your plys fairly thin, springback is a function of how many and how thick the plys are. Use epoxy or Weldwood, not yellow glue. Yellow glue has cold creep.
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Old 02-24-2011, 09:18 PM   #13
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I think azek would hold up to the elements better
True but his application is a "juliet balcony", which means it is inside. To clarify ; it is a shallow balcony, generally radiused, that allows persons in an upstairs room to walk out and look down into an adjacent multistory room, such as a den or great room through a set of french doors.
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Old 02-24-2011, 09:47 PM   #14
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I need to make some curved raised panels on a curved balcony header. It is a juliet balcony and will be receiving the panels on the face of it. The rails and stiles are not a problem but are there any tricks for forming the actual panels. They will be paint grade. About a 5' radius.
My thought was also the bending plywood, but it will take several fill,prime, sand series to clean up the profile. Some very carefull layout can yield accurate dimensions for the flat stretchout dimensions of the panel, which could then be profiled as a flat slab. First, I would wrap the rough framing in plywood to give plenty of nailing substrate, then do my layout carefully on it, using it to position the profiled panels onto. I have had success securing similiar situations with a full back troweling of floor adhesive and nails.Then simply glue and face nail on the applied rails and stiles. Fortunately the paint grade work is a lot more forgiving than stain.

I think to laminate the panels to wood forms as suggested is unnessary for paint grade work, and will add many unneeded $ to the price. Besides needing to build the forms for laminating; you will also need to make matching cradles for rolling the curved panels in for shaping.
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Old 02-24-2011, 11:14 PM   #15
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My thought was also the bending plywood, but it will take several fill,prime, sand series to clean up the profile. Some very carefull layout can yield accurate dimensions for the flat stretchout dimensions of the panel, which could then be profiled as a flat slab. First, I would wrap the rough framing in plywood to give plenty of nailing substrate, then do my layout carefully on it, using it to position the profiled panels onto. I have had success securing similiar situations with a full back troweling of floor adhesive and nails.Then simply glue and face nail on the applied rails and stiles. Fortunately the paint grade work is a lot more forgiving than stain.

I think to laminate the panels to wood forms as suggested is unnessary for paint grade work, and will add many unneeded $ to the price. Besides needing to build the forms for laminating; you will also need to make matching cradles for rolling the curved panels in for shaping.
On filling and sanding the profile, you can fill the profile and run back through the shaper and cut the filler down flush without having to sand it flush. If the filler still has voids in it just fill again and run through shaper again.

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