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Old 11-13-2005, 08:34 PM   #1
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Crown Moulding throughout


Hi all. I plan on putting crown moulding throughout the house and I was wondering if it wouldn't be easier to pre cut my corners and glue them at a 90 degree and then nail all my insides and outsides up in place first. I saw these pre-made corners in the stores but cannot bring myself to paying 8 bucks for something I can make a lot cheeper. I made an inside and outside prop wall in my shop and plan to start prefabbing these corners. What are Your thoughts on this idea?

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Old 11-13-2005, 09:07 PM   #2
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Crown Moulding throughout


Check all of your corners for square first. I have worked on exactly 2 homes where the corners were square, both were built by old world perfectionists. Obtuse angles are easier to deal with than acute ones. Having joints on either side would also look kind of funky IMHO.

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Old 12-07-2005, 11:55 PM   #3
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If you make prefabed 90 degree corners, you will be doing 1 of 3 things...1)throwing most of them away 2) throwing most of them away or 3) throwing most of them away.

I personally don't like wasting material, so I suggest you do it the old fashioned way. Don't forget that they came up with the idea of 'trim' to hide all the mess ups that everybody else did.

I know this is an old post, but I had to put my $.02 in here in case anybody reads this later on.
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Old 06-27-2006, 04:20 PM   #4
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Crown Moulding throughout


I see people asking the question on is cutting pre miterd cornners a good idea and it seems like the answer is no.So does this also mean that a miter box to do crown moulding is also not a good idea scence
there are only a few deffernt angles.
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Old 06-28-2006, 05:21 PM   #5
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Uh, of course you use a miter box to make the cuts when installing.
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Old 06-28-2006, 06:00 PM   #6
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Like Ken said you do need a mitre box. I would make a pair of inside and outside corner peices about 12" long and go to each corner and put the two peices together till they meet up perfectly then lightly mark the wall at the bottom of the peices. If all you cuts are the same then when you get to a corner they should meet up perfectly. I like to nail my crown peices up and hold the nails about 3 or 4 feet back from a joint so that it can be pushed up or down ever so slightly to correct any gap. Then when the gap is closed up nail it close to the end.

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Old 08-19-2006, 08:52 PM   #7
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Big Dave made a great suggetsion w/ the 12" sample pieces.

Another bit of information that may prove useful would be to know the coverage of the molding from ceiling down. You can obtain the actual measurement by holding a small piece of crown on your workstation just as it would sit on the wall while in contact with the ceiling. Simply measure from the workstation table to the top of the crown. Now that you have this measurement go arround the perimeter of the room at about 4 foot incriments and measure down from the ceiling making a small but recognizable line on the wall. These lines represent the bottom of the crown and helps to keep the crown from rolling up or down on the wall keeping it seated properly.

Also prior to installing the crown and after making your lines, depending on the size of the crown, you will want to locate the studs in the walls. Typically there is a double top plate which would yield approx 2.5" of solid nailing. When you go to locate the studs you can drive a nail in to the drywall (or finished wall) carefully until you find a stud being CERTAIN you are above the lines you marked. Studs typically are framed 16" OC and 24" OC.

Good Luck,

Happy crown moulding...

-Daryl
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Old 08-20-2006, 01:58 AM   #8
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Crown Moulding throughout


Quote:
Originally Posted by forcheck
Hi all. I plan on putting crown moulding throughout the house and I was wondering if it wouldn't be easier to pre cut my corners and glue them at a 90 degree and then nail all my insides and outsides up in place first. I saw these pre-made corners in the stores but cannot bring myself to paying 8 bucks for something I can make a lot cheeper. I made an inside and outside prop wall in my shop and plan to start prefabbing these corners. What are Your thoughts on this idea?
I would not advise doing it that way. I know it sounds a simple way to do 90 but in reality the odds are against you in it working out. Would advise compound miter saw and a coping saw and a rasp(Round file) for perfect cleanup after cutting.
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Old 08-20-2006, 06:21 PM   #9
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Crown Moulding throughout


Question for the group regarding the installation of Crown. In Florida, new homes and the like DO NOT have wooden frame, rather they are built with galvanized studs. How does one attach the crown well to these walls? I have seen people add (on other sites) just nail up and down letting physics hold the crown in place. But if one is installing 5" or larger it can get heavy on spans of 20 feet or more. Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-20-2006, 06:26 PM   #10
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i would suggest trim screws. fine thread for the metal studs. the trim screws have small heads on them and are installed using a #1 square drive bit. they can be sunk very easily in to the crown and puttied then painted.

i found them very useful for a commercial application when installing chair rail in an Executive office.

http://www.grip-rite.com/files/Grip-...rochurered.pdf


scroll down on the left side you will see

"Phillips or Square Drive Trim Head Sharp Point or Self-drill Screw"

Last edited by Daryl; 08-20-2006 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 08-20-2006, 08:19 PM   #11
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Crown Moulding throughout


Thanks Daryl,

I overlooked that idea. I have three or four boxes of those. Sometimes the simple answers will slap "punch" you in the face.
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Old 08-20-2006, 08:21 PM   #12
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sure thing good luck let us know how you make out.

-Daryl
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Old 09-27-2007, 11:19 PM   #13
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Crown Moulding throughout


is there a formula for cutting angles larger than 90 degrees on your table saw. I see 22.5 and 45
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Old 11-13-2007, 10:43 AM   #14
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Crump,

can you be more specific in what you are trying to accomplish?

Thanks

-Daryl
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Old 11-13-2007, 09:42 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crump View Post
is there a formula for cutting angles larger than 90 degrees on your table saw. I see 22.5 and 45
Do you have a chop saw? And if so does the blade tilt?

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