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Old 12-30-2009, 03:13 PM   #1
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Crown Molding Materials; MDF, UMDF, Wood


I have been practicing coping UMDF and am not sure that I like it. Especially annoying is how the little point that drops into the mini miter cut is easily damaged. My house is in So
Cal, about 12 miles inland from Laguna Beach and on the inland side of the coastal hills (so it doesn't get much of a marine layer.) I noticed that the UMDF isn't very thick and am wondering if that is why it is called ultralight. I had assumed it was the formulation of the material. If I go to paint grade wood, what would you recommend? For that matter, would you stay with UMDF or MDF?

The stuff I am using is # 414 Ultra Light from Arauco in Chile, which is the same mill the plywood came from that I used to build my saw stand.
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Old 12-30-2009, 06:30 PM   #2
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Crown Molding Materials; MDF, UMDF, Wood


If you can't get the results you want with fine toothed coping blade on this product, try another. I never had an issue with MDF or pine molding.
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Old 12-30-2009, 06:36 PM   #3
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Crown Molding Materials; MDF, UMDF, Wood


I never cared for the ones that had the applied finish just in terms of filling and sanding joints for a good finish. I also miter all my inside corners and use blocks and glue
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Old 12-30-2009, 08:49 PM   #4
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Crown Molding Materials; MDF, UMDF, Wood


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If you can't get the results you want with fine toothed coping blade on this product, try another. I never had an issue with MDF or pine molding.
Ron

I think I am getting a good result after coping 10 practice corners; the most important thing seems to be patience; something I have little of; just wondering if MDF or Pine is better.
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Old 12-30-2009, 09:00 PM   #5
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Crown Molding Materials; MDF, UMDF, Wood


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I never cared for the ones that had the applied finish just in terms of filling and sanding joints for a good finish. I also miter all my inside corners and use blocks and glue
Interesting. I first taught myself from a book to miter everything. I think I like the result better; at least initially; even compared to my best results, which is rather flawless. (Go Dremel!) Just don't ask how long it took to cope that one board. Supposedly the problem occurs later when the inside corners later pull apart. Some talk about gluing coped corners, but I wonder how much strength a joint has if it is back coped to a point. I don't know corners opening up is much of an issue in Southern California.
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Old 12-31-2009, 12:49 AM   #6
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Crown Molding Materials; MDF, UMDF, Wood


Gary Katz talked about the wood vs MDF Crown at his December So Cal Roadshow. He prefers wood over Mdf for a solely aesthetic reason. Wood moulding profiles can be made much sharper. Hence wood crown looks better than any type of MDF.
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Old 12-31-2009, 09:42 AM   #7
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Crown Molding Materials; MDF, UMDF, Wood


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I think I am getting a good result after coping 10 practice corners; the most important thing seems to be patience; something I have little of; just wondering if MDF or Pine is better.
Coping definitely requires patience and an eye for detail. Especially if you're going to stain the wood. With painted molding, you can caulk less the perfect copes, and the result will be unnoticeable.
Using the coping saw is only the first step in a coped joint. It usually requires a file and then sandpaper to finish up the joint.
I find a coped inside corner far superior to a mitered one. Again, especially in a stained application where caulking would not be acceptable.
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Old 12-31-2009, 02:40 PM   #8
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Crown Molding Materials; MDF, UMDF, Wood


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Gary Katz talked about the wood vs MDF Crown at his December So Cal Roadshow. He prefers wood over Mdf for a solely aesthetic reason. Wood moulding profiles can be made much sharper. Hence wood crown looks better than any type of MDF.
.

Thanks Bob. I will trim out the dining room with the umdf I already have, but then I will give paint grade wood a go. If, when I am all done I think the wood is superior, I will rip the mdf down and replace it.
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Old 12-31-2009, 02:48 PM   #9
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Crown Molding Materials; MDF, UMDF, Wood


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Originally Posted by Ron6519 View Post
Coping definitely requires patience and an eye for detail. Especially if you're going to stain the wood. With painted molding, you can caulk less the perfect copes, and the result will be unnoticeable.
Using the coping saw is only the first step in a coped joint. It usually requires a file and then sandpaper to finish up the joint.
I find a coped inside corner far superior to a mitered one. Again, especially in a stained application where caulking would not be acceptable.
Ron

Three cheers for Mr. Dremel and Mrs. Sandpaper. I figured out the hard way the prudence of not sawing to the line and finishing out with dremel and sandpaper. I am picking up a set of those little teensy files for the odd corner.

I have noticed how as I go along I develop a feel for where high spots will tend to cause problems and how to take them out.

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