Crown Molding install question

petros151

I have two questions one is just a verification and that is on a crown piece if it were for ceiling/wall you'd use the flat spots where it would tuck into the angle between C and W but if I am putting it on top of a Kitch cab then it seems like you have to use another flat spot to do this. I have a diagram that shows this
the green arrow seems like that's where I'd contact the cabinet top

Next, I just installed some in stock kitch cabs and the top of the cabs are "pretty" darn straight from one to the other BUT there are some places where the cabs themselves have flaws and places where my lining up is off by 1/16"
and if I lay the molding on top it looks ok but it will show some gaps.

Then I tried putting the molding a bit onto the face and it looks pretty nice maybe more fancy it creates that little edge and it hides any imperfection in cab top level. I have a diagram about that too. Is crown always put up on top or do people put it on the face also?

That brings up the last part if I do on top then it's hard to get it attached because it sits on the top of the top rail and the top of the cabinet is recessed down from the rail so where do you put a nailer? (the crown does not meet the ceiling)

If I put the crown on the face down a bit then I can attach a nailer to the top of the top rail and it will stabilize the molding.

Any idea are very much appreciated from you more experienced carpenters!

thanks

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<*(((><

The crown attaches to the FRONT top of the cabinet.

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mae-ling

Or to a backer strip that is added to the top of the cabinet

petros151

THANKS for the info I see how it works. NOW how about the miter cutting? If it were a wall ceiling install you'd put the piece upside down with the flat parts against the saw table and fence but if the molding is sitting where the green arrow is if I cut it positioned as shown (just like a C/W crown) will the pieces still meet up at the right angle for corners? I don't want to wreck any of the molding I just bought it was kind of expensive. Thanks!

There is a diagram again to show what I mean

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Willie T

Yes. Even better, because you do not have to deal with the up's and down's of the ceiling.

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Willie T

firehawkmph

Petros,
upside down like you show. For outside corners, right is left and left is right, in other words, for a right handed outside corner, you'll be cutting the piece upside down and on the left side of the saw. Inside corners are still upside down but not backwards. Think twice before you cut and make sure the mental image in your mind is right. If you want, get a piece of unfinished cheap crown and make a few practice cuts. Make a left and a right in both outside corners and inside corners. Mark them and you'll have something to go by. Easy to get confused.
Mike Hawkins

joecaption

If you want to make those cuts super simple go pick up one of these at Lowes, or order one on line.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19489&rrt=1
There's even pictures right on the tool show how to set the angle on the saw for inside or outside corners.
The first time I used it I did not even read the directions, it's that simple to use.

pyper

For an outside corner, put the piece of molding up where you want it. Draw a pencil mark on the molding where you want it cut, and then draw in the 45 degree angle (freehand is fine). Now when you go put it on your miter saw, you know exactly where you want the cut, and the angle line reminds you which way to point the saw .

For an inside corner I always put up one piece flat and cope the other into it. I put the flat piece where the eye will see it most, when that's an option. That is, if you're usually walking into a room from the south, I'll put up the flat pieces on the north wall, and then cope the east and west walls into the north wall.

In all cases, it's better to leave the piece a little long and need to make another trip out to the saw than it is to cut it a little short and have a gap, or nearly as bad, another trip to the store to get another piece of wood that has to be stained and finished.

mae-ling

Cut some test pieces first,just so you know you got it right. I agree wasting expensive moulding can be a real bummer

Augie Dog

I just make a quick jig to hold the crown at the correct spring angle. Mounted or clamped to the saw, you will have a nice kerf to line up your pencil or knife marks to.

Willie T

The jig Joe posted here is probably a good one, but............................................... ......
READ THIS BELOW>>>>>>>

WARNING! Don't buy THIS ONE. I did, and it shattered the first time I dropped it on the floor.

I will give Rockler credit in that they sent me a new one, free. But I now tie it to my saw with a cord whenever I use it. They are as brittle as glass.


ALSO: This may help.... it's a link to one of several posts I've made here concerning crown molding.
http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/cutting-crown-molding-cope-cuts-43303/#post266284

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Willie T

petros151

WOW all you fine folks who have the know how I really appreciate it! I will try some cheap crown that's a good idea thanks and I'll experiment with jigs. I can see why you all get a good result- practice and the knowledge. I think I am set to try this! I"ll post a pic when I get the hardest part done --- the corner cab.

Happy carpentry adventures everyone!

BigJim

You do know you have the crown on the cabinet illustration upside down, right?

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Jim

mrgins

I have a dewalt chop saw. They make a nice adjustable guage, but it's all about setting it right first. As many people have said, practice on some scraps of the moulding you will be using

petros151

boy this is really confusing.

at first I was looking at the molding I have and I put the rippled part up and the scooped part down. But I looked at some pics of cabinet molding and they all had the ripple part DOWN and the scooped part up.

Which is the usual way? I kind of liked the rippled part UP myself

THANKS!!!!