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Old 12-10-2010, 12:13 PM   #1
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crown molding corner blocks


I wanna install some crown molding,however I think using corner crown molding blocks may make this job easier and faster,because it would eliminate me having to make those angle cuts. is this true, and hard is it.also if their are any hints that would make this project easier let me know

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Old 12-10-2010, 01:30 PM   #2
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crown molding corner blocks


The proper way to put up crown molding is by coping it and not miter cutting the inside corners. I personally and not a huge fan of decorative corner blocks but if you like the look, yes it will be much easier and faster.

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Old 12-11-2010, 07:27 AM   #3
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Outside miter corners usually take hit/miss fitting(never a true 90deg angle in a house), but you can get perfect outside corners if you take the time. As suggested, cope inside corners. And what he said about blocks.
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Old 12-11-2010, 09:01 AM   #4
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crown molding corner blocks


I was in the same boat not too long ago....i knew i did not want inside miters, but did not know how to cope the insides. i also was considering using the corner blocks, but the boss put her foot down. luckily, by brother is VERY good at it, and he helped out (ok, he did it with me helping him....)

most important, i learned how to do it. it really is not that difficult, just takes a little practice (and some planning as you measure and cut your crown mold.) there are a bunch of "how to" guides on this, both on this site and elsewhere. however, if you can find someone to show you how, that will be the easiest in the long run.
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Old 12-11-2010, 10:08 AM   #5
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crown molding corner blocks


I was told way back when I was learning to cope crown to cut the molding upside down bedded in and cut on a 45. Once the 45 cut is made take a pencil and run it, marking, across the face edge of the cut all the way across and that will be your cut line. I always put my blade in backwards so the cut is on the down stroke so it don't burr the front of the molding.

Lay the crown flat on a surface with the end hanging off just about 6 inches or so. Hold your coping saw at a 90 then tilt the saw out so it is cutting about on a 50 or more under, with the handle tilted out away from your cut. Just follow the pencil mark while cutting back under at the sharp angle.

This will make a good under cut and allow your molding to fit. When installing crown from wall to wall, cut the molding about a good 1/8 inch longer than the actual wall to wall measurement, this will allow the mold to fit nice and tight when installed. Just bow it out in the middle, nail at each end and push the middle in and it will tighten up even nailed at the ends.

About the kill blocks, a buddy of mine used some that are made now where the crown actually runs behind the kill block and they don't look too bad. If you don't feel comfortable trying your hand at installing crown without the kill blocks, that is your business and it will look nice with or without the blocks as ceiling mold just makes a room complete.
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Old 12-11-2010, 02:53 PM   #6
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I had a friend who wanted to do his own crown but asked me to pre-make the corners. I did this for him but rather than the store bought design I cut them 12" and scarfed the ends. Then I glued and nailed a bevelled back piece to each side for him to secure the rest to. He did a great job at finishing.
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Old 12-11-2010, 04:32 PM   #7
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I just can't see using premade corners. I think you'll see them no matter what. Some crown mldg installs go in easier than others, depending on whether it's painted pine or stained hardwoods, and also the condition of the walls. I use a 24" scrap with miters on each and put it in place, marking on the wall and ceiling the position where it should go. Then, when I install the full piece, I can use those lines to match it up with the corresponding length going in the other direction
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Old 12-14-2010, 04:09 AM   #8
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I tried the corners and hated them so much I ripped down the entire room... I was going to paint it so I did some investigating and found the Foam molding. Looks good in the rooms where it is but for my Basement I will be doing real wood. Something I have been practing is coping... I tried the coping saw but did not have the skill. I read somewhere about using a grinder and that seems to be working for me on the practice runs
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Old 12-14-2010, 08:05 AM   #9
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Doc--Go to youtube --look for posts by Brian Campbell---He had one on coping with a grinder--

Use two 80 grit disks mounted back to back in a 4" angle grinder----Works well for me.-Mike--
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Old 12-14-2010, 09:52 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
Doc--Go to youtube --look for posts by Brian Campbell---He had one on coping with a grinder--

Use two 80 grit disks mounted back to back in a 4" angle grinder----Works well for me.-Mike--
I don't know if I could ever get the hang of that or not after so many years of using the coping saw. I have seen some big ceiling mold that I for sure would have liked to use the grinder as it took a good 10 minutes or so to cope just one piece, I hated that profile. For me it might go faster and get a better job if using the grinder and leave a little and finish up with a coping saw. I can get dead on with a coping saw but I don't think I would be coordinated enough for the final cut with a grinder. If a person was good with a grinder that would for sure be the way to go.
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:56 PM   #11
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I went out and estimated a boiler and the Carpenter there was doing her coping with a Jig saw. I have never seen that

Now I will also say that She was probably the most beautiful woman i have seen in months and when I looked at her she had a Titanium hammer so I said "WOW THAT IS NICE" she looked at me like she was going to punch me so I asked if she would mind if I looked at her Hammer. The helper that was there fought back his Laugh
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Old 12-14-2010, 04:33 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Docwhitley View Post
I went out and estimated a boiler and the Carpenter there was doing her coping with a Jig saw. I have never seen that

Now I will also say that She was probably the most beautiful woman i have seen in months and when I looked at her she had a Titanium hammer so I said "WOW THAT IS NICE" she looked at me like she was going to punch me so I asked if she would mind if I looked at her Hammer. The helper that was there fought back his Laugh
I'd love to add to that, Doc, but I'll refrain!
Anyway, I've used my dremel tool to fine tune the coped side after I've used the coping saw. I also built my own jig to be used in conjunction with a jig saw, but have yet to use it
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:03 PM   #13
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Ole Jim, The grinder is remarkably easy to control ---The first time I used it was to cope a seven foot long mantel into a natural stone fire place--that's over 14 foot of jigsaw puzzle copes--

Worked well,I could split my pencil line----I do have steady hands,but the work was not trying in the least.---

A grinder set up for coping now lives full time in the truck----Just handy--I still do most copes with a coping saw and a dremel for fine tuning----The work would have to be big enough to justify the clean up----The grinder makes a mess---Mike---
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
Ole Jim, The grinder is remarkably easy to control ---The first time I used it was to cope a seven foot long mantel into a natural stone fire place--that's over 14 foot of jigsaw puzzle copes--

Worked well,I could split my pencil line----I do have steady hands,but the work was not trying in the least.---

A grinder set up for coping now lives full time in the truck----Just handy--I still do most copes with a coping saw and a dremel for fine tuning----The work would have to be big enough to justify the clean up----The grinder makes a mess---Mike---
I must be stupid or something, but how is the sanding disc installed in the grinder?
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:39 PM   #15
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crown molding corner blocks


You take Two 60 grit sanding disks ( these are designed to fit a 4" angle grinder)

Put the two disks together back to back---and install the same way that you would a cutting disk.

The backing is a very heavy cloth/paper--Doubled like that they are quite stiff and plenty thick.


YouTube - coping with grinder

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Last edited by oh'mike; 12-14-2010 at 07:43 PM.
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