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 DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum Crown molding angle question
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07-26-2012, 03:02 PM   #16
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by DannyT for the angle you show the cut would need to be 65(180-50=130 divided by 2 = 65). the 25 would work if you had an angle of 50 from straight. your angle is 130 from straight.
This guy's got it right.

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-luke-

 08-14-2012, 12:42 AM #17 Member     Join Date: Jan 2012 Posts: 110 Rewards Points: 85 Hey guys! Sorry it took me so long for the update, I've been doing other things this room has been on the back burner. So! I decided to give a carpenter friends advice a shot, and I used deWalts chart online, you lay the crown flat and cut it using miter and bevel settings as listed on the chart. It has been working GREAT! I love this! The only problem is, the chart only goes down to 67* I can do about half of the room with this chart, I have cut the hallways, big boxes, closet, etc.. But I can't do the triangles in the room because they requite ~45* cuts and I can't cut them because I don't know the angles. here's the chart I'm talking about. Let me post some pictures and I will show you my progress. http://dewalt.com/featured-articles/...iter-saws.aspx I think I know what I need to do. I need to analyze the numbers on the page and find a pattern or formula that dewalt has used to figure these angles. Then I can use said formula to find the proper angles for my acute angle cuts. After I know what the saw should be I can lastly build a jig to get me to the proper angle (Which is where we started off in this thread), slice and dice, and get the last of the crown hung. Sound like a plan?
 08-14-2012, 07:42 AM #18 Member   Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,646 Rewards Points: 1,000 it looks like the miter setting changes .54 as the numbers go lower and the bevel setting changes .54 also at the end of the scale. just adjust until you get to where you need to be. i was looking at the 52/38 settings not the 45/45 settings. looks like the biggest difference on the 45/45 is the bevel is only .26. Last edited by DannyT; 08-14-2012 at 07:45 AM.

08-14-2012, 11:37 AM   #19
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by DannyT it looks like the miter setting changes .54 as the numbers go lower and the bevel setting changes .54 also at the end of the scale. just adjust until you get to where you need to be. i was looking at the 52/38 settings not the 45/45 settings. looks like the biggest difference on the 45/45 is the bevel is only .26.
I am only working with 52/38 crown. Let me see what my steepest cut has to be and we can go from there

Last edited by Lavid2002; 08-14-2012 at 03:56 PM.

 08-14-2012, 03:58 PM #20 Member     Join Date: Jan 2012 Posts: 110 Rewards Points: 85 Chugging right along, finished another square today (So many test cuts, revision cuts, and actual cuts! here are a few pix. Ignore the white stuff on the side of one of the crown pieces it's just a little spackle I love how it looks :D Wadya think!!?
 08-17-2012, 03:34 PM #21 Member     Join Date: Jan 2012 Posts: 110 Rewards Points: 85 Ok so I've messed with the saw, and I'm not even coming close to my 49* cut I need. Some cuts are even smaller! I need a better way. I have been looking into "coping" crown molding. I bought a coping saw and have been trying a few things. Quick question...for coping to work properly, both sides of the cut have to be at the same miter cut right? (Or else one will be longer / shorter than the other on the diagonal cut?) Thanks! -Dave
 08-17-2012, 03:59 PM #22 Member   Join Date: Aug 2012 Posts: 212 Rewards Points: 150 Cut the 1 way end to end no miter cut next peice upside down in miter box and cut on a 45 degree and cope the end When i say upside down i mean on the angle it will go up but upside down....once you find a good fit on the angle mark the back of the saw and cut all the rest on that line so they all line up/ Cutting this way all you have to do for the 45 corners is set the saw on 22.5 and cut both end and miter it. Last edited by Hammer450R; 08-17-2012 at 04:04 PM.
08-17-2012, 04:50 PM   #23
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Hammer450R Cut the 1 way end to end no miter cut next peice upside down in miter box and cut on a 45 degree and cope the end When i say upside down i mean on the angle it will go up but upside down....once you find a good fit on the angle mark the back of the saw and cut all the rest on that line so they all line up/ Cutting this way all you have to do for the 45 corners is set the saw on 22.5 and cut both end and miter it.
I still don't quite understand. I understand how to cope crown for a inside 90, and I have gotten my copes close for my inside 49* angle, but they still need to be touched up.

Can you try explaining in a different way please? I can make a video of what I'm doing if need be.

-Dave

 08-17-2012, 04:57 PM #24 Member   Join Date: Aug 2012 Posts: 212 Rewards Points: 150 I take the crown and put it upside down in my saw and i hold it on the 45 like itwill go on the wall except upside down. Once i feel its sitting flat on the two edges in my saw i draw a line on the back of the guard so all my future cuts are held at the same angle in the saw. Then just work your math and cut your angles like you would for casing.
08-17-2012, 05:04 PM   #25
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Hammer450R I take the crown and put it upside down in my saw and i hold it on the 45 like itwill go on the wall except upside down. Once i feel its sitting flat on the two edges in my saw i draw a line on the back of the guard so all my future cuts are held at the same angle in the saw. Then just work your math and cut your angles like you would for casing.
Hmm, I tried this before, I think I still had a great deal of difficulty reaching such small acute angles.

Please remember my smallest angle is 45* What angles would you cut to get this angle using your method? I'll go try it now. If I cut it at 22.5 and 22.5 I get an angle of 135* between the two pieces of crown. because 180-45 = 135.

If I wanted to get a 45* acute angle using your method I think I would have to cut both pieces of crown at 67.5* and my saw only miters to 47* either way.

I was thinking of making a wedge so I could cut steeper angles, but I don't know how to do this or make this set up.

 08-17-2012, 05:21 PM #26 Member   Join Date: Aug 2012 Posts: 212 Rewards Points: 150 Yes im sorry you want the sharp angle...I would use the same technique and make an angle block to get more angle out of the saw.
 08-17-2012, 05:21 PM #27 Member     Join Date: Jan 2012 Posts: 110 Rewards Points: 85 I found this awesome chart! I can enter the spring angle and it calculates what all my angles need to be. But how do I cut them :O http://www.sbebuilders.com/cgi-bin/g...pring_Angle=45
08-17-2012, 05:23 PM   #28
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Hammer450R Yes im sorry you want the sharp angle...I would use the same technique and make an angle block to get more angle out of the saw.
How can I make an angle block? Just chop a 1x4 up? How can I affix it to the saw?

-Dave

 08-17-2012, 05:26 PM #29 Member   Join Date: Aug 2012 Posts: 212 Rewards Points: 150 I would use a chuck of 3/4 ply and cut it on a 45 then screww a 2x4 to the angle edge to hold up the crown, then you can get the other 22.5 out of the saw.
08-17-2012, 05:28 PM   #30
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dont mount the 3/4 to the saw, use it to move back and forth to get cut lined up.

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