couple of window installation questions
Just installed a garden window at the house.
The vinyl siding is still down.
got a couple of questions.
1. One of my screws stripped on the install (the instructions called for screws, not nails). It is thoroughly stripped but did not go all the way in and won't come out either. It is below the surface of the counter-bored hole for the plastic cap, so I have no means of pulling it out.
I have bought one of those bits at Lowes that is supposed to go in reverse and somehow back these screws out, but last time i used it I never got it to work.
I need the screw out and the jamb material cannot get damaged.
2. The garden window came with two support pieces which are basically a couple of triangles made of 2x4 with the two legs including the right angle being about 16 inches long. First, I don't see how I could attach those under the window because of the triangle shape. I wouldn't be able to swing a hammer at a nail or get my driver in for a straight drill. The inner triangle space is just too small. Second, if I can get it connected, should I attached the support over the vinyl siding or cut out the siding put trim around them? Either way seems like it would look bad.
Bonus question. the instructions that came with this window were very vague and succint. the window is made of a PVC material. There is a sticker on the window that says that it is not a finished material and needs to be sanded and either painted or treated within 24 hours of hanging to protect against moisture build up that will result in splitting, bubbling, etc. Also if I don't do it, the warranty is voided. Anybody heard of this? Surely they don't want me to sand this white plastic material, and I see no reason to paint it when it's already the right color.
Hey wengang1, my name is George and I work for a Chicago area Home Depot. I’m just wondering how you managed to thoroughly strip those screws:wink:. First in my opinion the easiest approach to get those screws out would be with a reciprocating saw and bi-metal blade. Just place your reciprocating saw blade in-between your window frame and a wall stud and slowly cut those screws off. You should have just enough room to do so, but if not make some room with a pry bar. Cutting the section of the screw that is between the window frame and the wall stud will take the tension off the screw. Once you get the tension off, screw will break loose and you shouldn’t have a problem unscrewing it. Secondly I would have to see those support pieces in order to suggest any kind of solution on how to install them (made of 2x4s? with some legs? I’m confused, post some pictures). As far as attaching goes, support pieces are not suppose to go over the vinyl siding instead you should cut out the vinyl siding to the wall sheathing.
And finally your bonus question! I’ve never heard of finishing a new PVC window, I’m just guessing that the instructions and sticker you have are for the wooden windows:whistling2:.
I’m a Home Depot Store Associate, trained and authorized to help people on the Internet
Try a hand hacksaw, blade only after wrapping some tape around the end to hold onto. A recip saw may jump or gouge the inside material with the front throw action. I installed one that had the support like yours. The support installed on long screws with a pan head to hook on the backside slots. Then the window went in. I would trim the support pieces with cedar or vinyl trim blocks used for hose bibs or house light fixtures. Use some sill sealer under the metal/vinyl fins (if used) for a thermal break to the inside. Will the cap install over the screw now? Try drilling the screw head off with a slightly larger than head sized, metal bit. Install another fastener without the cap unless they gave you extras. A dab of colored caulking to cover or use a stainless steel screw. Contact the manufacturer for info on painting to prevent checking of the wood, if in doubt as to the instructions. Unless, as mentioned you have a vinyl unit with no wood.
if its below the surface of the cap,cap it and drill a new hole
cause most of the time you get crummy soft ss steel ones with stupid philips heads:wink:
thanks for the replies.
Tom you're right about that. I try to use torx screws wherever I can. I hope I never meet this Phillips guy.
But the problem is that it is only barely below the surface. The cap won't go on.
I'm afraid to try to drill the head off because of the material. I think it might rip a big hole.
I didn't want to take the reciprocating saw behind the jamb because that will leave a piece of screw stuck in the stud, and I still have to put a screw there. I'd rather get it out whole.
Also, the hole placements were meant to be spaced at certain distances so I can't put a new hole in.
If all I can do is get the head of the screw off, maybe I can just cap it. I think the window is sufficiently supported, and the shaft of the screw would still be in place.
On the hose bib type block trim, if I use that, do I still have to trim around with j-channel?
On painting, I stopped by Lowe's yesterday, and they also said the sticker is put in all windows and doesn't apply to the PVC.
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:44 PM.|
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.