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Old 07-05-2010, 10:28 PM   #1
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Couple Questions on installing real wood 4x8 beadboard paneling (Georgia Pacific)


PLEASE DELETE.... rewording /reposting question. Thanks


Last edited by RickDel; 07-07-2010 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 07-06-2010, 07:29 PM   #2
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Couple Questions on installing real wood 4x8 beadboard paneling (Georgia Pacific)


Adding to the wall requires extending the door and window frames so the beadboard butts up against the frame and doesn't cover it leaving a raw edge.
The sills and aprons don't get installed over the moldings.
Ron

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Old 07-06-2010, 08:11 PM   #3
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Couple Questions on installing real wood 4x8 beadboard paneling (Georgia Pacific)


Ron, I'm not sure I follow..... Are you saying I should build up my casings so they extend out beyond (proud) the chair rail? Then butt the chair rail up to the casing? My top cap is 1 1/2" wide, that's why I was planning to overlap the top cap and butt the chair rail. Is this an acceptable way of doing a return?

As for the exposed edge. There's no casing around the closet. If there were I could just butt the beadboard up to it; however, there's not and I have a light switch preventing me from adding any. So, since there's no casing, how do I end the beadboard??? I've only seen a piece of corner trim used to cover the edge, but since my sliding closet door shuts flush I don't think I can use the corner molding. So, is there an alternate way of ending the beadboard so it looks good?? (bevel the edge, use caulk..... anything you guys have seen that looks good?)

Thanks
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Old 07-06-2010, 08:45 PM   #4
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Couple Questions on installing real wood 4x8 beadboard paneling (Georgia Pacific)


Quote:
Originally Posted by RickDel View Post
Ron, I'm not sure I follow..... Are you saying I should build up my casings so they extend out beyond (proud) the chair rail? Then butt the chair rail up to the casing? My top cap is 1 1/2" wide, that's why I was planning to overlap the top cap and butt the chair rail. Is this an acceptable way of doing a return?

As for the exposed edge. There's no casing around the closet. If there were I could just butt the beadboard up to it; however, there's not and I have a light switch preventing me from adding any. So, since there's no casing, how do I end the beadboard??? I've only seen a piece of corner trim used to cover the edge, but since my sliding closet door shuts flush I don't think I can use the corner molding. So, is there an alternate way of ending the beadboard so it looks good?? (bevel the edge, use caulk..... anything you guys have seen that looks good?)
Thanks
You would pull the casings off the wall and extend the window frame. If the doors have no casing, take a 3/8" lath molding and frame the door. Butt the paneling up against it. If the connection looks wavy, install casing around the door. You can extend the switch box to be flush with the new panel plane.
Ron
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Old 07-07-2010, 02:46 PM   #5
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Couple Questions on installing real wood 4x8 beadboard paneling (Georgia Pacific)


I get it now.... thanks Ron!

Last edited by RickDel; 07-07-2010 at 04:19 PM.
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