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RickDel 07-05-2010 10:28 PM

Couple Questions on installing real wood 4x8 beadboard paneling (Georgia Pacific)
 
PLEASE DELETE.... rewording /reposting question. Thanks

Ron6519 07-06-2010 07:29 PM

Adding to the wall requires extending the door and window frames so the beadboard butts up against the frame and doesn't cover it leaving a raw edge.
The sills and aprons don't get installed over the moldings.
Ron

RickDel 07-06-2010 08:11 PM

Ron, I'm not sure I follow..... Are you saying I should build up my casings so they extend out beyond (proud) the chair rail? Then butt the chair rail up to the casing? My top cap is 1 1/2" wide, that's why I was planning to overlap the top cap and butt the chair rail. Is this an acceptable way of doing a return?

As for the exposed edge. There's no casing around the closet. If there were I could just butt the beadboard up to it; however, there's not and I have a light switch preventing me from adding any. So, since there's no casing, how do I end the beadboard??? I've only seen a piece of corner trim used to cover the edge, but since my sliding closet door shuts flush I don't think I can use the corner molding. So, is there an alternate way of ending the beadboard so it looks good?? (bevel the edge, use caulk..... anything you guys have seen that looks good?)

Thanks

Ron6519 07-06-2010 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RickDel (Post 466225)
Ron, I'm not sure I follow..... Are you saying I should build up my casings so they extend out beyond (proud) the chair rail? Then butt the chair rail up to the casing? My top cap is 1 1/2" wide, that's why I was planning to overlap the top cap and butt the chair rail. Is this an acceptable way of doing a return?

As for the exposed edge. There's no casing around the closet. If there were I could just butt the beadboard up to it; however, there's not and I have a light switch preventing me from adding any. So, since there's no casing, how do I end the beadboard??? I've only seen a piece of corner trim used to cover the edge, but since my sliding closet door shuts flush I don't think I can use the corner molding. So, is there an alternate way of ending the beadboard so it looks good?? (bevel the edge, use caulk..... anything you guys have seen that looks good?)
Thanks

You would pull the casings off the wall and extend the window frame. If the doors have no casing, take a 3/8" lath molding and frame the door. Butt the paneling up against it. If the connection looks wavy, install casing around the door. You can extend the switch box to be flush with the new panel plane.
Ron

RickDel 07-07-2010 02:46 PM

I get it now.... thanks Ron!


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