Coping Crown Molding in So Cal

Klawman

I am a newbie with light experience getting set to hang crown molding throughout my home. It has all the challenges, including cathedral ceilings, high walls, bullnose outside corners, and even a curved area that I belive will require a custom order rubber molding. They were glued with Titebond.

I have done one small rook, a "powder room" with some 130 and 90 degree inside corners. Nothing was coped but the longest wall was 5 feet. As it is paint grade mdf and a tad of caulking was used, it came out great. I understand that inside corners of pieces hung on longer walls are more likely to open up with time.

My house is in Southern California inside of the coastal zone. I mention this because Gary Katz mentions in one of his DVD's that you have to clone inside corners, unless the crown is short, UNLESS you are in Southern California. I hear a lot of people saying cope ALL inside corners.

I have a very accurate compoound miter saw and I think I have learned to use it properly. Thanks Mr. Katz.


I was all set to lay down $24.97 for a Collins Coping Foot, until I talked with Mr. Collins and learned it won't work with my 18 year old Sears Sabre Saw. I don't know if I want to invest in another jig saw. I believe some cope with a jig saw without a special coping foot.

I have a coping saw, which is an alternative. One other possibility is the "EasyCoper". I believe some of you have experience with it. It looks as thought it's use may be limited to 90 degree inside corners. No?

Other methods I have read about include augering out the backside with grinders and even a table saw. How you do it on a table saw is beyond me.

Suggestions, please.

oh'mike

This link will take you next door to Contractor talk.

Basswood -a master trimmer-Click on all threads started by---


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oh'mike

I'm mikeswoods over there.

Klawman

I e-mailed David Collins the diagram of my saw that I located on craigslist. Unfortunately, he can't be certain from what I sent but it looks like it wouldn't work well with the collings foot, if at all. He explained that Just looking at the pic he can't really tell. He didn't care for the shape of the body. You hold a freehand saw by the body with the blade up... cutting from the back side.

I was impressed with how quickly he answered after regular hours.

Klawman

I looked at the list of threads and read 3. The guy is interesting. The one I liked was of the saw parked by his house in the snow.

oh'mike

Basswood has one on radius crown-unbelievable,talk about dedicated to fine craftsmanship.

Klawman

Mike,

I think I saw Basswood's post on bullnose corners. The one where he fashions each corner with wire mesh and a plaster like substand. That is craftsmanship! I thought this guy was merely "eccentric". He is damn good.

Richard

hayewe farm

You might want to take a look at this http://cutncrown.com/all_products.php Watch the demo video

ARI001

Learn to use the coping saw or buy a jigsaw that will work with the coping foot. They do make a piece of equipment that will cope mouldings for you, it works similar to a key cutter but it's pricey. Coping mouldings with table saws and miter saws can be done but it is not really a good idea for anybody to attempt much less someone with limited experience. You can use a grinder to safely adjust a cope however I prefer a utility knife if that becomes necessary.

Klawman

I saw that, but didn't check it out that closely. Loked again.

The concept seems sound; avoiding potential for error switching from left to right miter or back while cutting in postion.

I see potential for error in the syxtem

Support. Nested in position more of the crown is vertically supported by the surface of the table. Additional horizontal support can also be derived form a sacrificial board clamped as a crown stop. Something I picked up form the Gary Katz DVD. With this system, it appears there is no vertical or horizontal support within a couple of inches of the bladewhen cutting an aggressive miter angle for a a few of inches of the blade when cutting a common 45 degree miter .

This system also makes it impossible to place material so it rests against both the left hand and right hand fences. Sure, you waste a few inches of wood but burning it would tend to ensure an more accurate cut and, possible, less tearout?

If you see their FAQ, there is a qustion aboaut tear out increasing. NOt sure if this isn't problem with cutting in position vs on the flat, but my guess is the problem is amplified by the decrease in support.

Besides, the basic concept is that there is no need to cope inside corners if your miter is perfectly cut and glued. Do you think that is true?

Perhaps I am overthinking this.

Klawman

Thanks ARI001. I think your's is good advice and am considering replacing my ancient jig saw with a new one. Actually, when I was out last night I tried to pick up some blades for my old $6 coping saw. Will only buy a jig saw if I think it will be used for other things. The Craftsman was literally never used, but I have recently retired and am getting into projects. Except for Collin's Coping Foot, I have yet to be impressed with the other devices. BTW, Collins seems to be a straight up guy. He easily could have sold me a coping foot, but told me it probably wouldn't work too well on my old thing. Onr thing no I haven't seen mentioned is coping with a dremel; someething I already own and quite often find useful.

Klawman

I wasn't even sure that I had the blade in correctly, until I checked a 2 minute video on Youtube, but it looks as if the coping saw will do the trick.

Per the Katz DVD, there is no need to cope short runs. Let's say there is 8' run meeting a 3' piece in an inside corner. Which biece gets the but cut and which is coped? I would think the longer piece is but cut and the short one mitered normally and then coped to fit into the profile of the long run.

Klawman

I came across this short video showing how to cope crown using a jigsaw without a Collins Coping Foot. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4mXCt9q_Rw

I don't know how well this actually works but will give it a try tomorrow.

PaliBob

For pro’s like Gary,Coping Crown or Base inside corners is de rigueur even for MDF, but it is more common to see inside corners both base and crown to be just mitered.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Klawman ...Other methods I have read about include augering out the backside with grinders and even a table saw...

A table saw can be used for copes, more often for base or shoe with smoother profiles, but I would be scared to try it.

There is a video that purports to use a miter saw, but is actually done by a coping saw:
http://www.ehow.com/video_4417859_us...ope-crown.html

Really dumb, and he doesn't do a good demonstration of a coping cut. Here is a 100% better demonstration from Gary's friend Joe Fusco:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlvQQDEn7Jc&NR=1

An Angle Grinder can also be used for fast results
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EijqMNYBsLg

The Collins Coping Foot is a popular attachment for coping with a jigsaw
http://www.collinstool.com/collins_coping_foot.htm

The video I like is Derrell Day using the Collins Coping Foot
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W02ZLlnSXXY
.

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oh'mike

I'm kind of old fashioned. I use a coping saw--'Fine tune' the cut with a Dremmel tool with a sanding disk.