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Old 02-19-2011, 12:56 AM   #1
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Converting 24" on center to 16" on center


Hello all. Thank you in advance for your help. I'll keep my question quick and to the point.

I am converting a 15x30 room that's attached to my father-in-law's shop into my wife's photography studio. The room has already been stripped to the frame where it's revealed it's 24" center and saw mill grade studs. I have an idea to insulate this existing stud wall and bringing a new stud wall up right in front; nice and square and with a 16" on center. Like I said, it's only use will be for photography.

I can send some photos if it helps with the painted image. And of course I can provide as much needed detail as . . . well as needed of course.

Thanks again for helping out.

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Old 02-19-2011, 05:12 AM   #2
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Converting 24" on center to 16" on center


what is the purpose of doing this? If you have to have 16"oc, why not install horizontal firring strips over existing wall?

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Old 02-19-2011, 05:23 AM   #3
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Converting 24" on center to 16" on center


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what is the purpose of doing this? If you have to have 16"oc, why not install horizontal firring strips over existing wall?
Interesting thought.

As a self-proclaimed "newbie", AKA "DIY'er" I am certainly open to suggestions. This is an idea that I've yet to explore but I am definitely interested. Can you explain in a little more detail please?
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Old 02-19-2011, 05:30 AM   #4
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Converting 24" on center to 16" on center


Sure. Use 1x3 horizontally across the face of your existing studs. This will thicken the wall by 3/4" so you'll need to build out any door frames by the same amount. Position the 1x3 at 16"o.c. I use actual 1x3 #2 pine as I don't like the quality of 1x3 strapping.
Apply your wall covering (drywall, paneling?) over the top.
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Old 02-19-2011, 07:01 AM   #5
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Converting 24" on center to 16" on center


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Originally Posted by newbie731 View Post
Hello all. Thank you in advance for your help. I'll keep my question quick and to the point.

I am converting a 15x30 room that's attached to my father-in-law's shop into my wife's photography studio. The room has already been stripped to the frame where it's revealed it's 24" center and saw mill grade studs. I have an idea to insulate this existing stud wall and bringing a new stud wall up right in front; nice and square and with a 16" on center. Like I said, it's only use will be for photography.

I can send some photos if it helps with the painted image. And of course I can provide as much needed detail as . . . well as needed of course.

Thanks again for helping out.
Seems a whole lot of work when you can just install the insulation horizontally in the 24" joist bays.
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Old 02-19-2011, 05:34 PM   #6
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Converting 24" on center to 16" on center


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Originally Posted by newbie731 View Post
Hello all. Thank you in advance for your help. I'll keep my question quick and to the point.

I am converting a 15x30 room that's attached to my father-in-law's shop into my wife's photography studio. The room has already been stripped to the frame where it's revealed it's 24" center and saw mill grade studs. I have an idea to insulate this existing stud wall and bringing a new stud wall up right in front; nice and square and with a 16" on center. Like I said, it's only use will be for photography.

I can send some photos if it helps with the painted image. And of course I can provide as much needed detail as . . . well as needed of course.

Thanks again for helping out.
I'm not sure exactly what you're asking, or wanting to do. But it seems to me that you could just as well put 24" horizontal insulation in, then drywall it.
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Old 02-19-2011, 06:40 PM   #7
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Converting 24" on center to 16" on center


Yes. Very true. However the problem lies with the existing frame being uniformly inconsistent as such that it would no doubt leave the drywall looking wavy. The old studs just don't seem to run as true as today's studs. Even the old chip board that was on the walls were wavy. So I need the ability to ensure a nice square uniform frame.
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Old 02-19-2011, 06:49 PM   #8
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Converting 24" on center to 16" on center


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Yes. Very true. However the problem lies with the existing frame being uniformly inconsistent as such that it would no doubt leave the drywall looking wavy. The old studs just don't seem to run as true as today's studs. Even the old chip board that was on the walls were wavy. So I need the ability to ensure a nice square uniform frame.
Oh. Okay, that makes sense.

Assuming I'm now understanding you correctly, I think I'd just build a regular studded wall - as you had earlier mentioned - place it in front of the rough wall, and drywall it. This is what's normally done in basements, when people want to "finish" them.
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Old 02-19-2011, 06:53 PM   #9
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Converting 24" on center to 16" on center


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Originally Posted by newbie731 View Post
Yes. Very true. However the problem lies with the existing frame being uniformly inconsistent as such that it would no doubt leave the drywall looking wavy. The old studs just don't seem to run as true as today's studs. Even the old chip board that was on the walls were wavy. So I need the ability to ensure a nice square uniform frame.
Either shim the firring where necessary to smooth the bumps, or if it's really that bad, build the new wall
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:54 PM   #10
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Converting 24" on center to 16" on center


If both rooms are always heated, strapping would work. If insulation is for R-value, the strapping would leave convective loop pathways without the insulation flush to the drywall, if it be fiberglass degrading your effort; The "biggest loser" in fiberglass insulation....

Gary
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Old 02-19-2011, 10:42 PM   #11
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Converting 24" on center to 16" on center


Exactly as I thought too. I was taking my cues from the basement finishing techniques I've read about. From my calculations there really isn't a price advantage doing the firring strips rather than just framing new walls. And the firring strips would actually be more time intensive given the need for shims and all.
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:25 AM   #12
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Converting 24" on center to 16" on center


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Exactly as I thought too. I was taking my cues from the basement finishing techniques I've read about. From my calculations there really isn't a price advantage doing the firring strips rather than just framing new walls. And the firring strips would actually be more time intensive given the need for shims and all.
Actually the firring strips would be cheaper AND less time consuming but thats based on a smooth wall to start with. Sounds like you'd be better off starting from scratch with 2x4s
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:43 AM   #13
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Converting 24" on center to 16" on center


Want to sister a new stud to every other old stud (to present a new straight front edge) and install two new studs (to achieve the 16 inch spacing) between every two sistered studs?

And install the new drywall quickly enough before the new studs have a chance to warp or bow as they dry out.
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Old 02-20-2011, 06:33 PM   #14
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Converting 24" on center to 16" on center


Yea I think a new frame positioned in front of the old one is the best idea. Does anyone see a problem with insulating in the new stud spaces as opposed to insulating between the old 24" spaces? Precut baffles would work best between the new 16" spaces.
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Old 02-21-2011, 05:32 AM   #15
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Converting 24" on center to 16" on center


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Yea I think a new frame positioned in front of the old one is the best idea. Does anyone see a problem with insulating in the new stud spaces as opposed to insulating between the old 24" spaces? Precut baffles would work best between the new 16" spaces.
If this is an interior wall between two heated spaces, then I assume you're insulating for sound. Don't use a vapor barrier

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