Convert shed dormer to gable dormer

jackpine

We have a small 10x10 shed dormer that I want to convert to a gable dormer. I don't care to change the structure too much, just the eaves, leaving the interior as is. I envision tearing off the shingles and tar paper, setting a ridge out to the eaves and then framing in the roof rafters, and sheeting it etc. Any advice from others who have done this? Am I crazy for doing this? I understand the load bearing on the outside walls and think that by leaving the current roof in place that should take care of the load bearing issue.

joecaption

Got a picture?
It would be a whole lot easyer to do if the roof was gone completly.

jackpine

No photo, sorry. Just a simple shed dormer. House is about a 11/12 and the dormer is like a 4/12 pitch, coming from the peak. I built the dormer and we absolutely hate it, it is so ugly on the house. I used I joists for the rafters.

GBrackins

you'll probably have to add a couple or so floor joists to support the roof load that will now be coming down on the side walls of the dormer, whereas before the roof load came down on the exterior wall of the dormer.

I say this because if you are looking to do a gable dormer the shed roof will need to come off, unless someone more inventive has a way of doing that without the shed poking through the gable roof (seen them done that way).

something to think about

__________________
Gary

"You get what you pay for, and sometimes free costs more!"

woodworkbykirk

you have to have sidewalls that are at the same height for the rafters to sit on.. which means your going to have to tear off the old dormer. you cant just built on top of the old one as it will create a hinge point

jackpine

Why? Where is this hinge point? Remember this dormer is very small. I really can't see a reason (other than some creative roof venting) why it wouldn't work out.

joecaption

Nore can we without a picture.

jackpine

Ok hold on I can see if I have some in progress.

jackpine

Here are some photos of when I built it. I know, leave it in place, but I really don't like it. I haven't finished it off yet so I am not having to tear off siding or anything.




Here is a photo I took of the lower level last weekend. You can see the deck I added and the redwood siding. I am doing the entire house a little at a time. I took this to show my parents in FL how much snow just fell. I know, the railings on the deck.... please I am doing this as I have time and money so no complaints. The 2x4 walls were expanded to 2x6, new windows, house wrap and then the redwood.





I really can't stand the way it looks and it is better to redo it now than wait until I have more of the house done. I have the main floor ceiling off and can easily double or triple the floor joists running under the dormer walls, they run the same. This would transfer any additional weight to the outside wall and to the central beam running through the basement and to the other foundation walls.

joecaption

I'd leave it.
To change it now you would have to redo the whole thing.

firehawkmph

Ditto on what Joe said. About the only thing you could save is the front wall, roof has to go, sides cut down. Could be done, up to you how much work you want to do.
Mike Hawkins

jackpine

That is what everyone tells me, wife included. I am planning a small addition on the non-lake side for an entrance, and I think I would like to cover half of the newer deck, maybe if I make that roof the same pitch as the dormer and tying into it, I can salvage some aesthetics. I am still open to other suggestions on how to do this. I am handy, can do pretty near anything at this point.

GBrackins

sorry for the delay in response as I've been out-of-town.

it appears to me from the height of the dormer wall (where window is) that the gable roof ridge would be higher than the main roof ridge, unless you used an extremely low pitch.

hinge point is where two walls are built one of top of another, such as the existing side wall if you were required to build another wall on top of it. typically when installing a gable roof the top of the wall-to-roof intersection is level or you'll have a difficult time in cutting rafters (determined in field) lengths.

I agree with others that have stated, "Leave it as is"

__________________
Gary

"You get what you pay for, and sometimes free costs more!"

woodworkbykirk

studs have to be continous. if you stack another wall on top that joint becomes the hinge point

jackpine

Here is how I thought I would do it without building any walls on other walls.

1. Cut the overhangs off.
2. Level in a ridge from the same height as the original roof.
3. Square a line from eaves back to roof
4. Cut and install rafters, overhang them for soffit the proper width.
5 Sheet the roof, box the soffit and eaves, install the proper ventilation.

I may do a mock up ridge and rafters to see how it would look. I know it wouldn't be a very steep pitch, but I could birdsmouth the rafters some to gain a little pitch.