Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Carpentry

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 07-21-2010, 10:20 AM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: chicago
Posts: 110
Share |
Default

Chair rail dead end treatment?


Hi,
I got some great advise about recycling some chair rail, and that is almost painted. It was cherry, so I had to paint it with stain blocker to get it to match our white trim in the cookie-cutter house we have.

Anyway, this room I am going to hang the chair rail in has three walls, and open on one end. The other wall has two windows without any casing.

I have seen many posts on doing a 45 return, very nice look by the way, but I would have to do 6 of these with the windows and the ends where there is only about a 6inch wide partial wall (the open side).

If I simply beveled the edges....what angle is normally used?
A 45, with a 90 cut midway down the slop (double angle end).

Do I simply cut it with a 30 or 22.5?

Again, the finished ends look nice...no disputing that, but I need to get this done and being painted white, the grain shouldn't be an issue, so balancing what is easiest versus best looking, what are your suggestions.

Please remember I am not a skilled carpenter, so what might be easy for y'all here might be complex for me!

Thanks!
Attached Thumbnails
Chair rail dead end treatment?-room.jpg  

bergerdude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2010, 10:44 AM   #2
STAFF
 
BigJim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: East Tennessee
Posts: 7,082
Blog Entries: 1
Default

Chair rail dead end treatment?


I also always did returns but if I were not doing returns I would go with the center one of your sketch as the 90 degree will represent the thickness of your door and window trim. The angle cut I would go with a 45 degree.

Jim

BigJim is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2010, 12:14 PM   #3
Old School
 
Willie T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: St. Petersburg, FL Minds of moderate caliber ordinarily condemn everything which is beyond them.
Posts: 3,634
Default

Chair rail dead end treatment?


I would turn the corner at each window, put on a 4" return (or whatever it takes), and end the chair rail flush up against the window frame if it's wide enough.
__________________
"True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is."
François Duc de La Rochefoucauld
Willie T
Willie T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2010, 02:23 PM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 9,519
Default

Chair rail dead end treatment?


Cutting 6 returns is nothing. The other solutions will look half assed by comparison. And if you follow Willie's advice about the windows, it's only 4 returns.
Rushing through a finish carpentry job is ill advised.
Ron
Ron6519 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Ron6519 For This Useful Post:
Willie T (07-21-2010)
Old 07-21-2010, 05:17 PM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: chicago
Posts: 110
Default

Chair rail dead end treatment?


no casings around the windows.....
bergerdude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2010, 05:33 PM   #6
Old School
 
Willie T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: St. Petersburg, FL Minds of moderate caliber ordinarily condemn everything which is beyond them.
Posts: 3,634
Default

Chair rail dead end treatment?


Quote:
Originally Posted by bergerdude View Post
no casings around the windows.....
I didn't say anything about casings around the windows. If there were casings, you couldn't make the returns I suggested.
Attached Thumbnails
Chair rail dead end treatment?-chair-rail-window.jpg  
__________________
"True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is."
François Duc de La Rochefoucauld
Willie T

Last edited by Willie T; 07-21-2010 at 05:45 PM.
Willie T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2010, 07:25 PM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,518
Default

Chair rail dead end treatment?


You probably could have given the cherry to a carpenter in exchange for him putting up painted pine. Then you'd have nice chair rail for no effort and he'd have nice chair rail and no one would have to go to carpentry crime court for painting cherry.
jogr is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2010, 08:37 PM   #8
STAFF
 
BigJim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: East Tennessee
Posts: 7,082
Blog Entries: 1
Default

Chair rail dead end treatment?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie T View Post
I would turn the corner at each window, put on a 4" return (or whatever it takes), and end the chair rail flush up against the window frame if it's wide enough.
I agree with Willie, I didn't read the original post very well as I took for granted that there was window and door trim installed. I too would cut the returns to go into the windows.

Jim
BigJim is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2010, 10:35 PM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: chicago
Posts: 110
Default

Chair rail dead end treatment?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie T View Post
I didn't say anything about casings around the windows. If there were casings, you couldn't make the returns I suggested.
Ah! That makes sense now. Thanks!
bergerdude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2010, 11:05 PM   #10
uva uvam videndo variafit
 
WirelessG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: W by God VA (bye MS )
Posts: 558
Default

Chair rail dead end treatment?


What Willie has suggested at the uncased windows will look good provided it works with your windows , which it should (If your windows tilt in and you are using heavy rail, there may be an interference issue - just have a quick check of it to be certain). If you opening is cased, the I would suggest you go with your 45/90 combination. Make your 45 degree cut, then square cut it square at a distance from the tip equal to the thickness of the casing (I don't know what kinda/size of trim you are dealing with, so I can't be more specific than that).

If you are worried about making precise cuts do the following:

1. Make your marks with a .5mm or .7mm mechanical pencil. Don't try to mark perpendicular to the trim - place you pencil on the trim and pull back quickly to the left, then place it on the point again and pull quickly to the right. This way you'll see two lines converging on a point.

2. Cut your rail a little long (say 1/2"), fit it in place on the wall, and mark it about a 1/16" beyond (long) of what it needs to be, and cut it (with a power miter saw). Take it back to the wall and mark it again. Hopefully it's 1/16" long. However, it's been my experience that people who don;t routinely make these sorts of cuts measure a little long and cut a little short. Eventually you will mark it and cut it with a mental note of whether or not to "leave the line" or "take the line" - which is simply a matter of whether you leave the .7mm width of the pencil line or whether you take it. All of your converging cuts should be on the corner ends where you are cutting a 45 for the wall corner. That way you don't need to fool with the bull nose 45/90 detail.

3. You might want to check the corner for square before you start cutting just to make sure it's not running wild. Chair rail is relatively thin (as compared to a corner shelf), so if gaps result from out of square issues, you should be able to patch them with spackle or caulk.

I hope I didn't over explain this and tell you a bunch of stuff that you already know, but you cited a little hesitation with your skill level, so I put it all out there.

Last edited by WirelessG; 07-21-2010 at 11:12 PM.
WirelessG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2010, 02:51 PM   #11
Old School
 
Willie T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: St. Petersburg, FL Minds of moderate caliber ordinarily condemn everything which is beyond them.
Posts: 3,634
Default

Chair rail dead end treatment?


Be very careful about this one thing........

I think myself (and maybe 100 other people in America) are the only contractors who try to get D/W window returns a true 90 degrees.

I will almost guarantee you that you probably won't find even one window in your house with exact 90's. Watch out for this when you set your miter saw. You will have to compensate.

__________________
"True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is."
François Duc de La Rochefoucauld
Willie T
Willie T is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Willie T For This Useful Post:
BigJim (07-22-2010)
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Installing Chair Rail up staircase? tomrash Carpentry 7 07-14-2011 12:42 PM
Painting/staining crown moulding and chair rail Gypsy601 Interior Decorating 8 07-05-2011 03:51 PM
How do I end / return chair rail and top cap at window/door casing? RickDel Carpentry 4 07-07-2010 09:10 PM
Choice: nicer chair rail w/splice vs no splice bergerdude Carpentry 9 07-07-2010 08:57 AM
Removed Chair Rail - Need to Patch Who Dey Painting 7 03-04-2010 01:43 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.