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Old 02-27-2012, 05:33 PM   #1
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what is the compound angle for a chair rail that turns an outside corner on a level line, then begins a 30 degree angle upward on a stairwell

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Old 02-27-2012, 06:12 PM   #2
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I'lll guess 45*, 15*

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Old 02-27-2012, 06:34 PM   #3
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Every stair case is going to be differant so it's not likly someone's going to come up with the right angle.
I would do some measurements from the floor up to the bottom of the chair rail on the wall, then mark the same measurement from the the outside edge of the treads to the same height on the wall. Snap a blue chaulk line and use one of these to figure the angle.
http://images.search.yahoo.com/image...mb=cpCLpHoH11V
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:55 PM   #4
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Hold up the 2 pieces, or 2 scraps, and scribe them together.
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:57 PM   #5
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It's going to be a compound angle so it's tricky to just scrbe it.
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Old 02-27-2012, 07:13 PM   #6
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You're going to try to make a 30 degree rake match a flat (horizontal) run around an outside corner? I suspect you'll have to turn that corner flat first... then use a slim "transition" wedge.
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Old 02-27-2012, 07:54 PM   #7
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if you have some scrap lumber or mdf rip some 2" strips to use as test peices.. use this to find the angles of the cut then duplicate it on the actual chair rail. just another simple trim carpenter trick for finding difficult angles
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:38 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk View Post
if you have some scrap lumber or mdf rip some 2" strips to use as test peices.. use this to find the angles of the cut then duplicate it on the actual chair rail. just another simple trim carpenter trick for finding difficult angles
That's not a trick! That's cheating!
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:45 PM   #9
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I've never once seen that return and then the angle as shown in the picture.
Far better better to have one double bevel cut.
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Old 02-28-2012, 12:12 AM   #10
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Here's an article which may show why Willie is right. http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/...board-returns/

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Old 02-28-2012, 07:15 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Mathewson View Post
Here's an article which may show why Willie is right. http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/...board-returns/
Dead on.
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Old 02-28-2012, 09:51 AM   #12
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I will admit that I HAVE, upon occasion, split the flat piece back for a foot or two, then wedged the profile wider to match the raked side..... then filled the split with spackling, and sanded it to match the raked profile.

A PITA, and not real professional, but I got away with it in instances where the Homeowner just didn't understand joinery, and insisted that the two should be able to match up.

Of course this will only work with paint grade.
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:55 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie T
I will admit that I HAVE, upon occasion, split the flat piece back for a foot or two, then wedged the profile wider to match the raked side..... then filled the split with spackling, and sanded it to match the raked profile.

A PITA, and not real professional, but I got away with it in instances where the Homeowner just didn't understand joinery, and insisted that the two should be able to match up.

Of course this will only work with paint grade.
Is "joinery" really a word?
What about "jointery"?
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Old 02-28-2012, 05:03 PM   #14
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Joinery is the correct spelling.
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Old 02-28-2012, 05:28 PM   #15
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Not sure, but I think "jointery" has something to do with smoking weed.

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