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Old 08-17-2013, 01:43 AM   #16
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Ceiling Crown Gaps: Eliminate Via Screws?


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Originally Posted by Twister View Post
sdsester -

Yes, real ceiling crown trim in my master bedroom closet. Looks superb. ZERO cracks/gaps.

The 1/32 - 1/16 ceiling crown gaps are in my game room.
My father was a master cabinet maker at one time. He tried to teach me tolerances like 1/16 to 1/32 so I guess I understand where you are coming from. Even he knew the best of wood would respond to climate change, just to start and the fasteners and glue used to join things would move at least 1/64 inch over time.

I still think caulk, without taping for it, and using your finger would close a giant 1/32 gap every time your house shifts if it bothers you so.

My approach? No tape. Nice quality caulk gun (not some $2 thing) that has nice ratchet action. Trim the tip. Shoot flexible and paintable caulk. I finish it all with my finger and wipe off excess with a damp cloth.

Touch up crown or whatever trim. Then cut in wall color.

What is the big deal?

There is no fastener on this planet that can pull crown or any other molding so tight as you imagine over the span of the trim itself. You only have studs every so many inches to screw or nail the trim into so get over it.

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Old 08-17-2013, 02:05 AM   #17
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Ceiling Crown Gaps: Eliminate Via Screws?


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All -
The largest gap in one area is almost 1/16". Most gaps are about 1/32".
Just so you all do not have to read the original post. Op is asking how to take a thin span of shaped/milled crown molding (real sliced timber and not synthetic I assume) across a room. I am guessing at least 6' to 8' pine or fir. One hopes kiln dried. I am guessing he has standard on center framing.

The gaps of 1/16" to 1/32" along the span trouble him. He does not want to use caulk but would prefer fasteners of some kind to draw the timber perfectly flat to the wall with no gaps and no need for ever caulking again. I did not sight the lumber but assume, it was perfectly straight and had no major crown issues.

I honestly do not know what to suggest to him. I know fasteners that will pull the molding air tight where there is framing? Actually I do not. You cannot pull thin molding air tight, with no 1/32 gap showing permanent to a wall with anything I new of?
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Old 08-17-2013, 05:51 PM   #18
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Ceiling Crown Gaps: Eliminate Via Screws?


I've had to go through and redo all the crown in houses where the builder and [painter cheaped out and did not nail/caulk correctly.depending on the crown size- find the studs and ceiling joists and nail into them... on ceilings that the joists run the other way do the double nail up through and at an angle like a hook into the ceiling drywall, push up on crown with hand before nailing to get a tight fit. aim into the same hole with the double nail for putty purposes..

if you want to add trim screws into the crown, maybe tack it up with nails and then come back and screw it off...
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Old 08-17-2013, 06:24 PM   #19
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Ceiling Crown Gaps: Eliminate Via Screws?


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I've had to go through and redo all the crown in houses where the builder and [painter cheaped out and did not nail/caulk correctly.depending on the crown size- find the studs and ceiling joists and nail into them... on ceilings that the joists run the other way do the double nail up through and at an angle like a hook into the ceiling drywall, push up on crown with hand before nailing to get a tight fit. aim into the same hole with the double nail for putty purposes..

if you want to add trim screws into the crown, maybe tack it up with nails and then come back and screw it off...
You are missing the OPs point. He does not want to see so much as 1/6" or 1/32" inch between the installed trim and walls. He does not want to calk. He wants the trim absolutely tight to the wall over the it run around the room.
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Old 08-17-2013, 06:43 PM   #20
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Ceiling Crown Gaps: Eliminate Via Screws?


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You are missing the OPs point. He does not want to see so much as 1/6" or 1/32" inch between the installed trim and walls. He does not want to calk. He wants the trim absolutely tight to the wall over the it run around the room.

impossible

stained crown is about as close as you can get to not showing wall imperfection, the darkness of the stain blends well with shadow gaps...
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Old 08-17-2013, 06:56 PM   #21
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Ceiling Crown Gaps: Eliminate Via Screws?


This is a funny thread, even more so when I when I look at the title.
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:09 AM   #22
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Ceiling Crown Gaps: Eliminate Via Screws?


Quote:
Originally Posted by sdsester View Post
Just so you all do not have to read the original post. Op is asking how to take a thin span of shaped/milled crown molding (real sliced timber and not synthetic I assume) across a room. I am guessing at least 6' to 8' pine or fir. One hopes kiln dried. I am guessing he has standard on center framing.

The gaps of 1/16" to 1/32" along the span trouble him. He does not want to use caulk but would prefer fasteners of some kind to draw the timber perfectly flat to the wall with no gaps and no need for ever caulking again.
sdsester -

Your statement above about my plans are NOT fully correct. I cut the caulking out to ensure I could close the gap. Then after closing the gap I fully intend to caulk the seam again. See my 08-16-2013, 12:50 AM post.

What I DON'T want to do is to caulk over and over and over again, endlessly trying to eliminate reoccuring gaps. Nope...close the gap, caulk it, paint it and (hopefully) never have to worry about it again.

Break....break....

Quote:
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impossible

stained crown is about as close as you can get to not showing wall imperfection, the darkness of the stain blends well with shadow gaps...
hand drive -

Yes, without caulking, you are correct. Like I explained to sdsester (again!) is that I will in fact caulk the seam once I'm done putting in additional fasteners. Thanks for the input about shooting in 'double nails' at an angle. One professional trim carpenter I talked to mentioned that, as well.

STILL would like to know if anyone ever used screws (either a sheetrock screw or a finish screw) to close the gap securely enough that, when caulked afterwards, and painted, would prevent gaps between the crown and the wall from occuring.....

If I don't hear from anyone saying that's a poor idea and why, I think I'm going to try it. Only reason not to, perhaps, is if the screw(s) back out over time??????
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Old 08-18-2013, 07:41 AM   #23
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Ceiling Crown Gaps: Eliminate Via Screws?


I personally wouldn't use screws because it could pull dimples in the molding. There is caulk today that will hold up for many years. If you are using this caulk and still getting gaps then you have more problems than having to worry about a slight gap.

I had much rather have the caulk, as you said you do plan to use, than have to pull the trim tight with screws and take the chance of seeing everywhere there is a screw, which is possible. If all trim had to be pulled that tight by trim carpenters, the costs would surely get higher. In a perfect world this would be possible but, you know.
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:48 PM   #24
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Ceiling Crown Gaps: Eliminate Via Screws?


Pulling trim too tight to the wall is the best way to show off the imperfections in your wall.
Letting the trim float over low spots and filling the gap is not noticeable after painting. It makes an imperfect wall look perfect.
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:46 AM   #25
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Ceiling Crown Gaps: Eliminate Via Screws?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Twister View Post
sdsester -

Your statement above about my plans are NOT fully correct. I cut the caulking out to ensure I could close the gap. Then after closing the gap I fully intend to caulk the seam again. See my 08-16-2013, 12:50 AM post.

What I DON'T want to do is to caulk over and over and over again, endlessly trying to eliminate reoccuring gaps. Nope...close the gap, caulk it, paint it and (hopefully) never have to worry about it again.

Break....break....



hand drive -

Yes, without caulking, you are correct. Like I explained to sdsester (again!) is that I will in fact caulk the seam once I'm done putting in additional fasteners. Thanks for the input about shooting in 'double nails' at an angle. One professional trim carpenter I talked to mentioned that, as well.

STILL would like to know if anyone ever used screws (either a sheetrock screw or a finish screw) to close the gap securely enough that, when caulked afterwards, and painted, would prevent gaps between the crown and the wall from occuring.....

If I don't hear from anyone saying that's a poor idea and why, I think I'm going to try it. Only reason not to, perhaps, is if the screw(s) back out over time??????
2 1/2" finish nails that hit solid studs,joists or plates are all that is used and needed for crown IMO.there is crown on walls all around my area put up by me with zero cracking issues. With a solid foundation in your house there should not be much cracking anywhere except for initial up front settling after house is built...
wedge blocks and trim screws would be a good idea for the corners where there are no ceiling joists to nail to.

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