Casing drywalled windows?

noone · 10-09-2011, 08:45 AM

I want to add casing to some windows that were built in with drywall. I don't want to have to rip out the drywall and 'really' case them, so can I just add case molding around the edges and then paint the inside of the window semi-gloss white to match the trim? Standard practice? Do you also try and add a reveal by offsetting the casing off the edge of the drywall or is this generally impossible in this application because of the varied straightness of drywall edges?

It's smooth drywall and these windows will not have any shutters installed in them. The windows with shutters already have casing which was installed with the shutters.

1910NE · 10-09-2011, 04:25 PM

You CAN do almost anything you want. Whether it will satisfy you or not is another story. This is only my opinion, but what you are proposing to do will not look very good.

loneframer · 10-09-2011, 04:28 PM

I've done it in the past. The reveal is a must, especially if the corner bead is questionable. You'll want the legs to be plumb and the head level, or as close as is practical with the bead situation. In any case, it should at least look straight to the eye.

**oh'mike** · 10-09-2011, 06:13 PM

Do be careful if you are using a brad nailer--the corner bead is metal --if the nails go straight in they will usually pierce the metal----however some will bend and fish hook---nailing your finger tips--

Keep your fingers well away from the area you are nailing.---Mike---

cocobolo · 10-09-2011, 06:23 PM

noone: If I were you I would remove the drywall "casing" and replace it with wood.

IMO it would very likely look better, and it will certainly stand up to any possible knocks in future. The cost would really be minimal, and you would have something solid to nail your outside trim to.

woodworkbykirk · 10-09-2011, 06:50 PM

in regards to shooting the corner bead,, if its plastic theres a good chance the nails will cause the skim coat to explode.. its why i hate plastic corner bead. especially in reno situations... sometimes the nail wont draw the trim to the wall so you have to shoot closer to the corner for it to hold

dont even get me started on steel stud

cocobolo · 10-09-2011, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wooworkbykirk

in regards to shooting the corner bead,, if its plastic theres a good chance the nails will cause the skim coat to explode.. its why i hate plastic corner bead. especially in reno situations... sometimes the nail wont draw the trim to the wall so you have to shoot closer to the corner for it to hold

dont even get me started on steel stud

It seems we might have had the same experiences in the past!

noone · 10-09-2011, 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cocobolo

noone: If I were you I would remove the drywall "casing" and replace it with wood.

IMO it would very likely look better, and it will certainly stand up to any possible knocks in future. The cost would really be minimal, and you would have something solid to nail your outside trim to.

I guess I better remove the drywall and do it right. I'm a ways off until we start this anyways.

Now I'm wondering if the shutters I am buying and will be installed in 6 weeks should be installed by removing the drywall as well. I believe they are going to be installed as one big frame complete with molding nailed over the drywall. I dont think they do this anyways but just wondering.

Thanks for the advice.

cocobolo · 10-09-2011, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by noone

I guess I better remove the drywall and do it right. I'm a ways off until we start this anyways.

Now I'm wondering if the shutters I am buying and will be installed in 6 weeks should be installed by removing the drywall as well. I believe they are going to be installed as one big frame complete with molding nailed over the drywall. I dont think they do this anyways but just wondering.

Thanks for the advice.

A picture would help here...

What I think you are saying is that the shutters will be made to fit the opening, is that right? If so, I would have the drywall out of there in a heartbeat. Make sure they get the measurement back to the framing.

noone · 10-10-2011, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cocobolo

A picture would help here...

What I think you are saying is that the shutters will be made to fit the opening, is that right? If so, I would have the drywall out of there in a heartbeat. Make sure they get the measurement back to the framing.

I called them. They took the measurements from the drywall edges. End result will be the same regardless if it is a drywall or wood jamb- they build the shutter with it's own built in frame and install in opening. Good to go.

cocobolo · 10-10-2011, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by noone

I called them. They took the measurements from the drywall edges. End result will be the same regardless if it is a drywall or wood jamb- they build the shutter with it's own built in frame and install in opening. Good to go.

Understood, but I wonder if you removed the drywall if they could'nt make their opening 1" bigger.

Not sure if the extra 1" would add much more light, just a thought.

**kwikfishron** · 10-10-2011, 12:36 PM

After you trim out with wood you lose ½”.

I’d find out the exact size of the shutters before modifying anything.

cocobolo · 10-10-2011, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwikfishron

After you trim out with wood you lose ½”.

I’d find out the exact size of the shutters before modifying anything.

1/2 an inch on each side Ron...1" all together.

Yes, if the company has started to make the shutters, I wouldn't bother to change anything.

**kwikfishron** · 10-10-2011, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cocobolo

1/2 an inch on each side Ron...1" all together.

Yes, if the company has started to make the shutters, I wouldn't bother to change anything.

You're taking away ½” of Sheetrock then your adding ¾” of wood on each side so you lose ½” from the finished opening that the shutters were measured for.

cocobolo · 10-10-2011, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwikfishron

You're taking away ½” of of Sheetrock then your adding ¾” of wood on each side so you lose ½” from the finished opening that the shutters were measured for.

Oh, I see your line of thinking now. Yes, most folks would buy 3/4" from the building supplier.

Actually, I wouldn't do that, I would use 1/2" wood...but since I'm not doing it I guess it's up to noone to decide.

Don't forget that I machine all my own wood, so if I need 1/2" then that's what I make.

No argument with your logic though!

10-09-2011, 08:45 AM	#1
noone Member Join Date: May 2011 Posts: 408	Casing drywalled windows? I want to add casing to some windows that were built in with drywall. I don't want to have to rip out the drywall and 'really' case them, so can I just add case molding around the edges and then paint the inside of the window semi-gloss white to match the trim? Standard practice? Do you also try and add a reveal by offsetting the casing off the edge of the drywall or is this generally impossible in this application because of the varied straightness of drywall edges? It's smooth drywall and these windows will not have any shutters installed in them. The windows with shutters already have casing which was installed with the shutters. Last edited by noone; 10-09-2011 at 08:49 AM.

10-09-2011, 04:25 PM	#2
1910NE Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Freeport Maine Posts: 484	Casing drywalled windows? You CAN do almost anything you want. Whether it will satisfy you or not is another story. This is only my opinion, but what you are proposing to do will not look very good.

10-09-2011, 04:28 PM	#3
loneframer KemoSabe Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 640	Casing drywalled windows? I've done it in the past. The reveal is a must, especially if the corner bead is questionable. You'll want the legs to be plumb and the head level, or as close as is practical with the bead situation. In any case, it should at least look straight to the eye. __________________ It's not that it took him an hour to make 100 bucks, it's that it didn't take you 10 hours to save 100 bucks.

10-09-2011, 06:13 PM	#4
oh'mike Super Moderator Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Kane county,Illinois Posts: 16,748	Casing drywalled windows? Do be careful if you are using a brad nailer--the corner bead is metal --if the nails go straight in they will usually pierce the metal----however some will bend and fish hook---nailing your finger tips-- Keep your fingers well away from the area you are nailing.---Mike--- __________________ New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--

10-09-2011, 06:23 PM	#5
cocobolo Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Gulf Islands, B.C., Canada Posts: 6,264	Casing drywalled windows? noone: If I were you I would remove the drywall "casing" and replace it with wood. IMO it would very likely look better, and it will certainly stand up to any possible knocks in future. The cost would really be minimal, and you would have something solid to nail your outside trim to. __________________ Just an old guy messin' with bits of wood... ...the friendliest thread on the site! Come on by. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Casing drywalled windows?