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noquacks 04-14-2013 02:45 PM

Cant figure out what angle to cut crown moulding
 
People,

I Have a compound mitre saw, and tried a cut at 45 deg (inside corner), but it still doesnt fit right. What am I doing wrong? I heard from a lumber yard guy it should be a single cut on a mitre saw, at a "strange" angle. What is the mystery angle, and other details? Any youtubes available could be helpful- so far, I couldnt find one.....

Thanks!

hand drive 04-14-2013 03:27 PM

if you have a compound miter then there should be crown adjustments on the fence slide and the blade angle slide, 31.9 - 33.9 or something close to that and you cut the crown with it laying down flat on it's backside. other wise just put your crown upside down bedded on the saw slide base and back stop and use the little flat 3/8" of the crown to determine if it's bedded and cut with the saw set at 45 degrees to get inside and outside corners. use a sharpie and make a dot on the saw base where the bed is so you know it is bedded every time or get crown stops that bed it for you. outside corners the blade cuts to the crown profile leaving the profiled edge showing to the furthest point of the cut and inside corners the blade cuts to the back of the crown leaving the back flat part showing at the furthest point of the cut.

stradt03 04-14-2013 03:40 PM

Why not cope the inside corners?

joed 04-14-2013 04:10 PM

Hold the crown upside down in the miter box at the angle it be on the ceiling and cut a straight 45.

Here is a Tommy Silva demo.

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/vide...056482,00.html

funfool 04-14-2013 04:24 PM

crown supplies the installer hours of entertainment cutting and installing.
You need to cut it upside down first of all. You see on a outside corner, the top juts out from the bottom.
To achieve this, you need to put the bottom side up on your saw and when you cut the 45, the top which is on the bottom of the saw table becomes the long point.

You need to set the crown on the table of the saw the same way it will sit on the wall before cutting. Since it is upside down, the bottom on the fence and the top on the table.
I usually just take a couple of short pieces about 12" long, I set it against the fence and table, and cut a inside and a outside corner on each piece. This allows me to see both ends are sitting in position before cutting because is only 12" long.
I then draw a line on the fence with my pencil. Now when I have a long 16' piece on the saw, I can line it up with the pencil mark I drew on the fence.
If you do not have a mark to go by, you move one piece up a bit when cutting, the adjoining piece down a hair when cutting, the joint will not line up perfectly. Cause you more work.

I use the short 12" pieces I made with inside and outside corners, to test fit a corner before cutting the real piece. You can hold them in place and if the drywall is off, you will see it and can adjust the 45 degree cut by a few degrees one way or the other to get a better fit.

By all means, be patient and have fun ... or we will have to start calling it work :wink:

joecaption 04-14-2013 04:47 PM

I suck at cutting crown, mainly because I do not get to do it v ery often.
I found two tools that made it easy to do and it fits perfect almost every time.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...electedIndex=0

This tells you exactly what the angle is whether or not it's a single or a double cut. Amazon.com is one place that has them.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...9&site=ROCKLER
This hold the crown and even has an easy to understand pictures right on it on which way to set the saw.

noquacks 04-14-2013 05:08 PM

thanks, people! yes, I did find those marked angles on the saw! I screwed up a few cuts already....LOL . But have loads of moulding- HD screwed up and send me double what I needed! I have a fear I will need tripple!

Now, that video is great. I didnt know one can get away with a 45 deg cut- I thought one has to cut with the 31.9 and 33.85 on the saw guide graduations. I will try that tomorrow.......Whew.

funfool 04-14-2013 05:43 PM

Joe that is so true, I make minor mistakes with framing or foundation work ... nothing that will not pass code, just a gotcha because the last time I did this was 6 months ago and time before that was another 6 months.

If all we did was one thing we would do it well, that would be boring. :yes:

noquacks 04-14-2013 06:00 PM

OK, thinking about is more, isnt the EASIEST concept the coping saw method? I mean, almost fool proof? Yes, tedious cutting around the edge, but I can follow that. The angles are driving me crazy.

noquacks 04-14-2013 06:07 PM

yup. looked at the video again and again, and looks like its dummy proof (Im a dummy in this department, people. ). Hmmmm, didnt I have a coping saw in the garage some years ago???????

joecaption 04-14-2013 06:20 PM

That's always been a problum in my area.
We call it the promise land. Everone promises to show up and never does.
I'm not going to get paid to build an addition, pump house whatever until the mason shows up.
No show then I'll do it.
Got the building built and the roofer is a no show then I'll do it.
I used to hire some far faster to me to install crown.
Got tired of having to pay them all that money for a few hours work so I had to figure it out.

oh'mike 04-15-2013 05:30 AM

I use the 'nested' crown cutting method--upside down and backwards on the saw--
Both of my saws have adjustable crown stops to keep the molding in the same position at all times.

If you are coping the inside corners, you still need to make a cut --this is your guide.

Gluing outside corners will help you keep that new crown looking good for a long time---
Consider using Thick CA glue with the spray accelerant.

After cutting a long section---use marking blocks to mark the bottom position on the wall---
position the molding and nail the center of a long run---leaving the corners loose---

Install the next section the same way--then use a wood block to drive the corner pieces up into position----

A 'Helping Hand' pole or a springy prop stick allows you to install crown by yourself, if no assistant is available---

hand drive 04-15-2013 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by noquacks (Post 1159295)
OK, thinking about is more, isnt the EASIEST concept the coping saw method? I mean, almost fool proof? Yes, tedious cutting around the edge, but I can follow that. The angles are driving me crazy.


coping it involves learning how as well. if you plan to cope and since you have a compound miter plan on cutting the angles on the saw anyway and then cope to the crown profile. this saves a lot of thick cutting with the coping saw because you cut out half of the meat with the miter saw.

to clear up your confusion about the 31.9 -33.9, the little flat sections that are on the backside of the crown top and bottom that nest to the wall make the 31.9 and 33.9 work. that does not work with all crown just the most standard crown- some crown will sit on a more vertical plane while others will have more of a horizontal placement thereby changing the 31.9,33.9 degree Angle.those angles only work on your saw when you lay the crown on the flat and not bedded. I've used saws that the angle adjustments were wrong so I bedded a test piece and cut the 45 degree angle and used that cut piece as a pattern to set the saw, just put the piece on the saw and slide it to the blade(not running, just a dry test) while adjusting the blade until the blade matched perfectly with the test piece. this is especially helpful when cutting non standard crown and the crown clicks do not work. by the way, cutting on the flat is the only way I do it- there is no chance when I get to the job that I'm trying to bed 16' crown upside down while it flops all around and crown stops take much to long. setting on the flat allows for quick clean cuts and on the spot adjustments to the angle and miter and you can tag the adjustments for later by reading the points and noting them. try adjusting crown cuts on the bed upside down, I've done it long ago and it involved trying to shimmy the crown up in the air or move it out away from the base,directing the helper to hold it still etc.. ugghhh.

even if you cope you have to deal with outside corners, so take the time and learn the angles and bevels...you will be glad you did :wink:

noquacks 04-15-2013 11:48 AM

OK, here it goes........gonna try the above great tips.

jessrj 04-17-2013 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joed (Post 1159210)
Hold the crown upside down in the miter box at the angle it be on the ceiling and cut a straight 45.

Here is a Tommy Silva demo.

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/vide...056482,00.html

I agree. This works for crown less than 3 inches. The bigger stuff needs to go on the compound. Just make sure the backside of the bottom of the crown is tight against the fence.


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