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Willie5566 03-09-2010 07:59 PM

Cabinet Repair
 
I have a cabinet that is pulling away from the wall. Here is a picture:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...e/P1000924.jpg

There is a gap between the wall and the cabinet. It appears the cause of this is because the floor is not level and the the cabinet is leaning forward. How can I fix this? I am thinking of using shims to raise of the front of the cabinet. I want to make sure this is a proper fix though.

Here is another picture of the entire unit:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...e/P1000925.jpg

Thanks in advance for the help.

oh'mike 03-09-2010 08:09 PM

The shims are standard practice.----The cabinet should have been screwed to the wall,also.

Lift off the top and you will see a strip of wood on the back of the cabinet--Run a couple of 2' or 2 1/2 " screws through that strip-into a stud. On a narrow cabinet you might not find more than one stud to hit-studs are usually 16 inches apart.

Good luck--have fun--Mike--

Willie5566 03-09-2010 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike (Post 412329)
The shims are standard practice.----The cabinet should have been screwed to the wall,also.

Lift off the top and you will see a strip of wood on the back of the cabinet--Run a couple of 2' or 2 1/2 " screws through that strip-into a stud. On a narrow cabinet you might not find more than one stud to hit-studs are usually 16 inches apart.

Good luck--have fun--Mike--


Is it hard to lift of the "top?" I assume you are referring to counter top.

Termite 03-09-2010 09:47 PM

No need to remove the top in most cases. You should be able to shoot screws through the back of the cabinet carcasse by opening the door. You'll probably need to remove the toe kick board in order to shim under the front of the carcasse, then replace it after the shims are installed.
Install the screws AFTER shimming...Don't try to draw the cabinet back to the wall with the screws.

As far as screws, you should be able to get cabinet installation screws at a home center. They have a washer-type head. Deck screws would work, but not as well. I prefer to use 2-1/2" Kreg pocket hole screws (Lowes sells them in the tools department) because they have a small washer head, self-drilling threads, they're fairly aggressive and they're square drive so you won't strip them out driving them in.

jlhaslip 03-09-2010 10:20 PM

Cabinets don't just decide to lean forward like that.
Is your floor moving? Can you access the level below the cabinet to have a look? Post pictures.

Willie5566 03-10-2010 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlhaslip (Post 412411)
Cabinets don't just decide to lean forward like that.
Is your floor moving? Can you access the level below the cabinet to have a look? Post pictures.


Agreed. I do not think it is a floor issue. The owner before bought the house as a flip and it looks like he cut some corners in certain places. That said the house is about 85 years old so there are issues with shifting.

Willie5566 03-10-2010 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thekctermite (Post 412386)
No need to remove the top in most cases. You should be able to shoot screws through the back of the cabinet carcasse by opening the door. You'll probably need to remove the toe kick board in order to shim under the front of the carcasse, then replace it after the shims are installed.
Install the screws AFTER shimming...Don't try to draw the cabinet back to the wall with the screws.

As far as screws, you should be able to get cabinet installation screws at a home center. They have a washer-type head. Deck screws would work, but not as well. I prefer to use 2-1/2" Kreg pocket hole screws (Lowes sells them in the tools department) because they have a small washer head, self-drilling threads, they're fairly aggressive and they're square drive so you won't strip them out driving them in.

I assume the toe kick board is the board on the front of the cabinet near the floor. Am I correct? Is it hard to remove?


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