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Old 03-11-2010, 12:49 AM   #1
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Cabinet height issues


I find myself with an inconvenient ceiling height. I'm at 94-3/4 from the finished height of my flooring.

The standard sizes for my wall oven cabinet are 93" and 90". I want to run my 3-5/16" crown molding right up to the ceiling.

I was planning putting down my hardwood flooring first. If I put the cabinets directly on the subfloor, I can pick up an extra inch, but I'd have to rip down the toe kick or have the hardwood flooring abutt the kick.

Should I explore other options? Do you think I'm best off just paying the exorbitant fee for a nonstandard cabinet size?

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Old 03-11-2010, 03:21 PM   #2
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Cabinet height issues


I've had Kraftmaid, at various times, produce some reduced width, height and depth cabinets. The costs were fairly resonable.
Who are you using?
Ron

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Old 03-11-2010, 03:39 PM   #3
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Cabinet height issues


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Originally Posted by Ron6519 View Post
I've had Kraftmaid, at various times, produce some reduced width, height and depth cabinets. The costs were fairly resonable.
Who are you using?
Ron
Fieldstone/Starmark. I think I'll just bite the bullet and pay the fee for the custom cabinet.

On a different note, what do you think about wall cabinets installed 13.5" inches over the countertop? I have space for tall appliances on the corner of my peninsula. Would 13.5" provide you enough room to work? Would the visual effect be weird?
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Old 03-11-2010, 04:58 PM   #4
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Cabinet height issues


Normal space is 18" in my kitchen installs. Occasionally we'll lower it to 16" if the homeowners feel it's more convienient due to short stature. The height you're planning, in my opinion, is much too small.
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Old 03-11-2010, 09:57 PM   #5
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Cabinet height issues


If you go another route, don't forget the dishwasher roll-in height......and the refer, stove, etc.

Be safe, Gary
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Old 03-12-2010, 01:05 PM   #6
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Cabinet height issues


I agree with sticking with the floor under the cabinets and going with a customized cabinet. Perhaps shop around with a few cabinet companies, but in the end you'll be glad you got what you wanted.
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Old 03-12-2010, 10:42 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Allison1888 View Post
I agree with sticking with the floor under the cabinets and going with a customized cabinet. Perhaps shop around with a few cabinet companies, but in the end you'll be glad you got what you wanted.
Yeah, reducing the height by 1" ended up costing me $190 bucks! I'm still saving thousands of dollars by going with the manufacturer I chose.
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Old 03-12-2010, 11:07 PM   #8
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Cabinet height issues


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Originally Posted by Ron6519 View Post
Normal space is 18" in my kitchen installs. Occasionally we'll lower it to 16" if the homeowners feel it's more convienient due to short stature. The height you're planning, in my opinion, is much too small.
Ron
After careful consideration, I decided to go with the 42" wall cabinets and the 3-5/16" crown molding.

We have a single cabinet in the old kitchen at 13 inches that provides sufficient clearance for knife blocks, crock pots, and toasters. For anything taller, we have space in the peninsula corner (no wall cabinets overhead) and a little space near the sink.

I'm going to get a little creative with my wife's stand mixer. We're going to use a pull-out platform like this (picture courtesy of gardenweb member justadncr):

I'm also contemplating putting in one of these built-in bases for blenders and food processors:



If the low cabinet height ends up being a pain, I'll replace our crown molding with something that gives us another 1-1/2" or so.

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Old 03-13-2010, 12:57 AM   #9
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Cabinet height issues


The picture you provided is interesting and could be used for some appliances. The concern I have in the use for what you have showing is that it moves and vibrates at tremendous pressure at times. On a solid surface some people have a problem with keeping it stable and will cause some terrible moments each time your family may decide to use it or not. Harder to fix cabinet height after getting it set than to decide and check with the spouse. I just thought to mention it just to save some tension. Have a good day
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Old 03-13-2010, 01:44 AM   #10
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The picture you provided is interesting and could be used for some appliances. The concern I have in the use for what you have showing is that it moves and vibrates at tremendous pressure at times. On a solid surface some people have a problem with keeping it stable and will cause some terrible moments each time your family may decide to use it or not. Harder to fix cabinet height after getting it set than to decide and check with the spouse. I just thought to mention it just to save some tension. Have a good day

Yeah, my wife was just as ambivalent as I was about the cabinet height. Other than the single cabinet in the old kitchen, I really haven't had much practical opportunity to work in a kitchen with low cabinets. I'm willing to take the chance with the tall cabinets because I saw some pictures today of another kitchen with eight foot ceilings, 42" cabinets, and crown molding. That kitchen didn't look bad at all. I still have the option to replace the molding if the height is unmanageable.

The basic design for the in-counter "kitchen center" appliance in the picture above has been around for more than 30 years. I hear the new system is pretty quiet. This appliance is also ruggedized, so you can use it in an outdoor kitchen. I just wish the new model had as many attachments as the old 1970s model, e.g., the juicer, the meat grinder, the can opener, etc.
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Old 03-17-2010, 08:57 PM   #11
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Cabinet height issues


You may wish to consider multiple mouldings at the top. I agree that you should place your base cabinets over your finished floor or at least set them on material that is the same height as your finished floor. Measuring from the floor up; the top of your base cabinets are typically at 34 1/2"; the top of your countertop depending on the material at 35 1/2 to 36"; the bottom of your wall cabinets at 54"; the top of your wall cabinets at 84", 90", and then depending on the manufacturer also 92, 93 or 96". If I understand your layout you will have a crown that will not go to the ceiling, you can typically purchase a matching flat stock that is 3/4" X 4, 5 or 6". The flat stock can be ordered with an edge that matches the door edge. So you mount the flat stock vertically with the "door edge" detail down and then mount your crown moulding to the flat stock. This provides a lot of latitude in the ceiling height as you can choose the "reveal" between the stocks "door edge" and where you start the crown. I also often order a matching moulding to trim the window that is typically above the sink and make the window stool out of the flat stock or a filler. If this is a stained or painted cabinet always order at least a pint of matching stain or paint so that you can can always make up a trim piece if you need to. By the way, make sure that you can stand up the oven cabinet. Your ceiling needs to be at least as high as the diagonal dimension of the oven cabinet face or side. You can usually order the oven cabinet with a separate base if you can not stand up the cabinet. Good Luck,
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:06 PM   #12
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Cabinet height issues


Clever idea about the stock. At this point, I have ordered my 42" wall cabinets, so my options are pretty limited. I am going all the way to the ceiling with the crown. I know I'm flouting the 18" standard , but I think I'll have enough room on the peninsula for the appliances.

Thanks for pointing out the challenge of standing up the wall oven cabinet. At 92" in height, the oven cabinet will need just under 94.5" of ceiling height. I went with a 3/8" underlayment, so I'll have just under 3/16" of clearance. I think I'll delay installation the flooring by entrance to the house, so I'll have an extra 3/4" to play with. I guess I'll tilt the cabinet over the edge of the finished floor, then I'll slide the whole thing into the kitchen.

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