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Rick5472 09-18-2009 01:12 PM

Bullnose Base Moulding Install
 
For some reason, the wife wanted bullnose corners (drywall bead) installed on the outside corners of the bathroom walls. I had planned on putting in regular wood base moulding to finish it off but have no clue what to use for going arounf the bulnose corners. I had thought of using a piece of cove moulding reversed aand then butting up the regular moulding to it. I am not sure if the radius can be matched up using cove moulding.

I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions in this matter? I see that there are some websites that make custom bullnose corners but I am looking for something that I can do myself by picking up materials at a Lowes or HD.

Thanks......Rick5472

Brik 09-18-2009 01:21 PM

Well - You can just cut the base normally then use painters caulk. I would cut multiple 22.5d cuts and then caulk.

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you will still have some gaps but painters caulk will fill and it should look fine.

ARI001 09-18-2009 01:36 PM

Well you have one of three choices:
1) Buy the pre-manufactured rounded corners and biscuit or dowel them to your baseboard. Expect to do some sanding and scraping.
2) Make your own rounded corners to match your existing base moulding and install as stated above.
3) Miter the trim around the corner. You would set your miter saw to 22.5 degrees to accomplish this as it will require four cuts per outside corner. Then fill the gaps with caulk. Coincidentally reinforce your miters with glue and pins or biscuits.

bjbatlanta 09-18-2009 01:40 PM

Run a piece to the edge of the radius with a 22.5 outside miter. Then a small piece on the radius with 22.5 outside miter on both ends. Run the piece on the other edge of the radius with a 22.5 outside radius. Caulk the gaps.......
Looks like Ari001 types faster than I do. Sorry to duplicate the idea.

Rick5472 09-18-2009 02:21 PM

Thanks for all the replies........I don't want to have to sand and caulk the gaps, that seems to defeat the purpose of having rounded corners. I should have thought about this before the wife decided she wanted bullnose corners.

I have seen the 22.5 degree miter joints before and that too defeats the roundness. The problem I have is there is an inside corner about 1 inch from the outside corner. It is basically in a doorway with a wall that starts about 1 inch away on the one side. The other side is basically the same but it does to an inside closet. I may have to post pics.

The easy approach to me would be to somehow create a rounded corner and then but the moulding up to it. I just can't figure out how to create this rounded moulding.....:)

Rick5472 09-18-2009 02:23 PM

2) Make your own rounded corners to match your existing base moulding and install as stated above

This is what I would like to try but ARI001, do you have a means to this idea?

-Rick

Brik 09-18-2009 02:43 PM

I have seen it done with plaster and a screed matched to the moulding (old old school). I have seen flexible moulding but I do not know the bend radius. Google will find you suppliers. You could also get creative, maybe, with a jig and a shaper. This isnt a weekend woodworker endeavor tho.

Rick5472 09-18-2009 02:47 PM

I should also mention that there is wallpaper on the walls already ofer the drywall............

bjbatlanta 09-18-2009 02:54 PM

You could check with a local millworks and see if they have a solution. I've seen the "flexible" moldings used on radius walls, but I don't think they would work on a radius as tight as a corner bead......

ARI001 09-18-2009 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick5472 (Post 329353)
2) Make your own rounded corners to match your existing base moulding and install as stated above

This is what I would like to try but ARI001, do you have a means to this idea?

-Rick

Yes, but it would depend how you where set up equipment wise as to the method I would recommend and whether or not you could accomplish it in a reasonable time frame. Honestly, unless you are pretty well equipped it will probably be more cost effective to order the pre-made ones.

vsheetz 09-18-2009 06:07 PM

On my recent remodel I bull nosed all the corners - love the look. The lumber yard where I got my base had small partial corner pieces to match the base. Using these along with a little hand sanding and caulk, the corners look great and were easy to do.

Rick5472 09-18-2009 08:00 PM

vsheetz- does your lumber yard have a website? I haven't been able to find anything close at my local Lowes or HD.

vsheetz 09-18-2009 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick5472 (Post 329464)
vsheetz- does your lumber yard have a website? I haven't been able to find anything close at my local Lowes or HD.

It's Dixieline Lumber in Escondido CA. http://www.dixieline.com/ They do not have many product details on the website. the moldings I used I believe were by Kelleher http://www.kelleher.com.

Another thing you can do is use bullnose drywall corners that are squared at the bottom to accomodate the baseboard. No round for a few inches at the bottom to have to deal with.

cabinetman 09-19-2009 06:09 AM

This is a procedure to make curved moulding, that is of any profile. If what you want is larger or longer than the solid stock you have, or it's too much to make it out of solid stock, this might work for you. I came up with this method many years ago out of necessity, with excellent results. The idea with this is you will be needing two (2) lengths of identical moulding "A" and "B", to make curved piece "C". Keep in mind this is a lamination method and the final moulding will have varied grain due to it being laminated from two different pieces of wood.

As you see in the drawings, "C" is cut to be glued up and installed along its left side. You can start with buying two identical pieces of moulding or make them. The drawings for this explanation are segmented into 1/8" sections, to facilitate the use of an 1/8" kerf cut. Most woods will bend well in 1/8" thickness. Each segment of "A" and "B" represent a "save" or "saw kerf".

The cross hatched segments represent a "saw kerf". So, after slicing on the TS the segments of both "A" and "B", you will save the segments "a" from "B", "b" from "A", "c" from "B", "d" from "A", etc, for the rest of the profile.

When you have the "saved" segments they will get glued up to form "C" moulding. They can be glued up and clamped all at once or a few at a time. It's imperative to align the moulding up so the profile will be consistant.

Taller curves can be created by just vertically stacking one or more profiles, provided you have made forms for the moulding to glue to. Segments that are covered by another segment can be pin nailed if necessary.
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http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attac...ny-bar-abc.jpg







Rick5472 09-19-2009 09:16 AM

I am looking for something like what is in these pics but not as fancy for a bathroom: http://www.distinctivewoodcraftwest.com/


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