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Old 12-18-2009, 11:03 PM   #16
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building soffit


Thanks Mike. What made you using 1x6 T&G pine instead of 2x4s? to save head space? Did you have any support in the middle?

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Old 12-19-2009, 10:35 AM   #17
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sorry no pics to upload and not sure how to find one or draw one to show you, less than computer savy. I beleve a hardware store will have a threaded stud for attatching a standard nut and washer on one end and a lag on other end. This is a one piece bolt, hopefuly someone will read this post and be able to direct you a little better. I have used these in the pst but do not know a tech name for them
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Old 12-19-2009, 12:10 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by tpolk View Post
sorry no pics to upload and not sure how to find one or draw one to show you, less than computer savy. I beleve a hardware store will have a threaded stud for attatching a standard nut and washer on one end and a lag on other end. This is a one piece bolt, hopefuly someone will read this post and be able to direct you a little better. I have used these in the pst but do not know a tech name for them
You can use a hanger bolt and coupler attached to the threaded rod. If you ever plan to remove it, put lock nut or epoxy in the coupler.

http://www.boltdepot.com/dimension.a...&cs=180&cm=106








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Old 12-19-2009, 01:48 PM   #19
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thank you kevin exactly so
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Old 12-19-2009, 02:41 PM   #20
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thank you kevin exactly so
You're welcome
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Old 12-19-2009, 09:33 PM   #21
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XUC,
I just wanted to try something different and maintain as much headroom as I could. Plus the pine goes up easy and is fun to do. Stain before hanging. I used a couple pieces of lattice to make an outside corner on the bottom corners. Since doing these, I miter the corners of the pine so a small piece of outside corner will cover. The miters don't have to be tight, just reasonable close. Here's some pics.
Mike Hawkins
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Old 12-20-2009, 05:26 PM   #22
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Very nice! Others may want to do some research first, as you probably did. At installation, maybe wrap the ducting with some suitable insulation or rigid foam to keep the heat in the supply trunk line, not exposing the wood. Watch the flammability ratings for such use. Otherwise, over time, the constant heat could dry the moisture content down to change the size of the individual boards causing open gaps at the t&g joints or splitting if they are securely nailed. Be sure to use a finish that is compatible with baking in an oven, on low heat, for extended periods of time. Or maybe just acclimating it for awhile to like wood flooring. It's amazing how much wood can move with humidity changes: http://www.woodfloorsonline.com/tech...oodwater1.html
I like the checkerboard floor!
Be safe, Gary
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Old 12-20-2009, 07:09 PM   #23
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Thanks Gary,
I took those pictures yesterday. As you can see, we are getting ready to have everyone over on Christmas day. That wood has been up for 6 years now with no noticable shrinkage. The black and white floor is ceramic and was supposed to be the bar area. Turned out to be the music room. My son and I would use it at different times for band practice.
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Old 12-20-2009, 09:18 PM   #24
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Be safe, Gary

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