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ligyron 02-16-2012 08:01 PM

Best way to do trim?
 
I work for a window and door replacement company, and we also install trim.

Right now, when installing trim, the way i was taught was to use a combination square and mark the window jam corners at 1/4". i then cut the four trim pieces with proper miters, and install using the marks i made. most of the windows are vinyl, so i try to avoid shooting into vinyl whenever possible. we have plastic 1/16" shims that often have to be used to compensate for wavy walls so that corners line up properly. i'll typically start at the bottom and shim where and if necessary, then apply glue to the joint and add the side pieces.

For those of you that have been doing this stuff for a long time, is there a better, more accurate way? the plastic shims tend to be a pain in the ass sometimes, especially when you're trying to hold the trim in place with one hand, the shims with the other hand, and then shoot the trim in place. also, you can't shoot the shims themselves or they explode, and sometimes just fall out after you've attached the trim.

Any advice or tips would be great! i like this job, but trim can sometimes get stressful, especially when walls are wavy.

titanoman 02-16-2012 08:17 PM

Get your measurements, then nail the 4 pieces together first.
(like a picture frame).

loneframer 02-16-2012 08:43 PM

6 Attachment(s)
In most cases, I find that the walls are too inconsistent to pre-cut the miters without putting at least a small amount of bevel one way or the other.

I prefer to use two scraps with 0 bevel on them to get an idea of where to start, then cut one piece at a time, fitting properly as I go. This way, no shims are necessary behind the miters. They fit together tightly and snug to the drywall.

JetSwet 02-16-2012 09:33 PM

For doors I build the trim around the door before the door goes in insert door in jam nail the hinge side adjust the other it works cuts half the time.

Sent from my iPhone 4 ios5

woodworkbykirk 02-17-2012 09:23 PM

when i install mitred casings. i always back cut the mitre by settin teh saw on a 1 degree bevel for both the legs and header casing.. with the bevel going to the back of the trim..

by doing this the face of the casing will hit before the back edge does which keeps the trim nice and tight. i try not to shim casing at all as it will create gaps where it meets the drywall/plaster.. if the gap is excessive at teh plaster i will either remove material off the back of the peice of trim so it's tight to the jamb and the wall to make for the least amount of caulking possible

nice work on the h.o.h btw riz :thumbsup:, must have been nice having solid nailing behind the drywall everywhere with all that adventech


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