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bigboyjoel 05-23-2007 12:00 AM

Beadboard ceiling
 
My wife and I want to install a beadboard ceiling in the kitchen. Has anyone done this type of work and which is best, the 4'x8' sheets or the actual grooved type that some is 4' lengths? Our budget is slowly decreasing so cost will be an issue. We will only be doing about 90-100 sq ft. Also, do we install them the running the same direction of the wood floor or does it really matter? The beadboard will be painted white:yes: .
Thanks

send_it_all 05-23-2007 12:11 AM

If you use the planks, the way to install it is perpendicular to the ceiling joists. The planks should be tongue and groove, so you will have to face-nail part of the first and last pieces. After that, you should be nailing through the tongues, at an angle, so the nails dont interfere with the fit of the next piece. If you use the sheets, you can run them any direction you want. I would probably use some sort of adhesive to help them stick properly...probably painter's caulk so you could get it down later if you want. Try to nail into the ceiling joists wherever possible. If you are having trouble finding them, definitely use some adhesive and stitch the nails, meaning point the nail gun at an angle, shoot, then point the nail gun at an opposite angle near the 1st nail and shoot again, creating sort of an X with the two nails. The nails will hold until the adhesive dries, then the panels should stay put. I would definitely prefer using the planks and shooting into joists, but the sheets (mdf) will amost certainly be much cheaper.....like 1/4th of the cost.

bigboyjoel 05-23-2007 12:28 AM

Wow, thanks for the quick reply. That has to be one of the most complete answers I have been given. What would most asthetically look best to you, running the ceiling congruent with the floor or opposite the floor? I believe I will use the MDF form, the tongue annd groove will just be too much drama in my eyes. I just want to give the ceiling a little pop.
Thanks

send_it_all 05-23-2007 12:42 AM

Aesthetics is not really my specialty, but I would say running them the same direction as the floor would look best. I would really suggest using the planks if the budget allows. They will actually be easier to install if you are working alone. You could stagger the end seams and it would look like a professional install. With the sheets, the end seams will look like doo doo on a white chicken. If your kitchen is less than 8 foot across in one direction, I would definitely run the sheets so the end seams aren't an issue. Also, for a first time installer, measuring and making cut-outs for lights and cutting around upper cabinets or range hood ducts could be tricky. I have a lumber yard near me that sells the planks in poplar, but it is pretty expensive.....like .89 cents per linear foot for a 3" wide plank. That would add up quickly when trying to cover a kitchen ceiling.

bigboyjoel 05-23-2007 08:53 AM

I will take a pic of my kitchen ceiling and send it to you. I don't have much to cover, it's a small 10'x11' kicthen and even less ceiling space to cover since the cabinets go all the way to the ceilnig. I have one light fixture to cut around and no hood in the way. For the seams, couldn't I just use wood filler in those areas, then sand, then paint???

bofusmosby 05-24-2007 01:49 AM

I agree that the planks would look better, and be easier to install, but believe me, I know all about the price of the materials dictating what is actually used. I know, down here in Floride, the Home Depot sells the tongue and groove bead-boards 1" x 4" X 12' for $7.99 a board. I am going to have to replace the entire ceiling with these boards. Lets see, my porch has a 2 story ceiling, 34 feet long, and 37 boards deep. I am going to have one heck of a job in front of me. Plus, over $1,000 just for the wood. It adds up quick.

Good luck with your project.

bigboyjoel 05-24-2007 09:52 AM

I hear that. I don't have nearly that much area to cover...only about 10x11, even less than that probably. I just thought that since it's an indoor job, panels would install so much more easier and faster. The actual strength may not be as great as the actual planks. Planks would probably look better and give more depth to the job. Thanks all for your advice in the matter. This job shouldn't take me more than a day I don't think, give I have the proper tools. Do you suggest using some sort of adhesive to put the boards up, plus nails or is gule an over kill in this issue?
Thanks

bofusmosby 05-24-2007 09:05 PM

I am probably the wrong person to ask that. I have a bad habit of doing an "over-kill" on my projects. I probably use more screws than nails. I don't want to take a chance in the plaster coming loose, besides, the old pine is so hard, you have to pre-drill the holes before nailing. I use a lot of the polyeurothane glue myself. I also use a lot of the construction adhesive.

I have seen some of those sheets when done right, and it does look good. I have never installed it though. I also am no pro at this. I bought an old house a few years ago, and am doing a complete restoration myself. Not that I want to, butI can't afford to hire someone to do it for me. Sort of "learn-as-you-go", if you know what I mean.

kbf99 08-28-2007 02:36 PM

Question re Nails
 
Could anyone elaborate on how you nail the strips in? I am confused as to how you nail through the tongue---won't that prevent the next board from fitting snugly? Thanks!

Big Bob 08-28-2007 02:54 PM

1 Attachment(s)


kbf99 08-28-2007 03:09 PM

Nail Gun v. Hammer
 
Thanks Bob! One more thing, do you recommend a nail gun for this project or is a regular hammer and nail sufficient?

Big Bob 08-28-2007 03:28 PM

Really depends on how much you are doing. Nail gun should make this easy, but overhead work can be tricky and you will end up with weight lifter like arms.

joed 08-28-2007 04:17 PM

If possible you definitely want to use a nail gun. I've done it both ways and your arm will feel like it is falling off if you nail them all by hand.
If any of the boards have knot holes in them just paint he spot behind the board black. No one will see the missing knot hole.

RippySkippy 08-29-2007 07:04 AM

Last fall, I installed 400 ft2 in a covered porch, and it was not easy...but it looks great done. I used the dewalt finish nailer with 2-1/2" galvanized nails, it worked great. While helping another friend, he had a Bostitch finish nailer with that has plastic tips that really help keep the nose of the nail gun placed properly.

kbf99 08-29-2007 10:32 AM

Thanks a lot!
 
Thanks!


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