Bathroom Reno cont. - DIY Chatroom

shapeshifter · 02-09-2007, 03:53 PM

I'm to the point of refinishing oak veneer cabinets, and I'm not sure I'm on the right track. I've removed the doors, all the hardware and cleaned the doors really well. I've sanded one time with an 80 grit s.p. on an orbital sander. Do I always want to go with the grain? Some of the sanded areas are quite different in color, almost as though some of the wood grain is higher. As a result, some of the grain is much lighter. I'm thinking of using a clear satin clear finish because I really like the wood. Anyone have any pearls of wisdom to share?

ps, same topic is posted in woodworking chatroom.

Brik · 02-09-2007, 04:28 PM

Shapeshifter - 80 grit in a random orbital sander (ROS) is way too aggressive in my opinion. To get things smooth you will now need to go to 150 grit then to 220 grit if you want smooooth. Some go higher, some stop at 150 grit. Oak veneer, as you probably know, is very thin. Its easy, if you are too aggressive in sanding, to blow through it.

To answer your question. ROS doesn't really need to go with the grain, I do when I move it around on the surface.

As to the different colors of wood. This is common on some types of store bought pieces. The manufacturer uses what ever wood they can get and then uses stuff called toner to even out the color. Toner is in a spray and is part of a factory applied finish. Some stains may work to even out the color as well. The minwax stuff would be your last choice for this. You are more likely looking for a gel stain or dye to even the color out. All of these are going to darken and change the color some. (Necessary to even out color).

Personally I like to use toner. I do not have pro spray equipment but for small projects you can buy it in a spray can. behlens is one brand. Woodworkers supply has it. Its also called Lacquer toner. Just spray a color you like then I just top coat it with the same brand clear lacquer, also in spray cans.

When I use the spray lacquer I sand to 220, apply toner if desired, let dry, lightly, by hand sand with 320 or 0000 steel wool. Spray another coat of clear lacquer, 0000 steel wool and a final clear lacquer coat and call it done. Its a very durable finish and the stuff drys very quickly (minutes). Its certainly not a traditional finish, nor is it common, It is tough and its easy.

See http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=7235

shapeshifter · 02-09-2007, 04:56 PM

Brik, thanks so much for the input. The reason I went with the 80 for the first sanding was because the doors looked like some of the grain was really raised. FMI, on the next bathroom project, should I start with the 120? The doors on that cabinet are pretty ratty, too. Also is it necessary to re-stain? I like the way they look now, pretty much, would a satin clear-coat equalize the colors?

Brik · 02-09-2007, 05:35 PM

No - A satin clear coat would not even the colors. Maybe very slightly if oil based (It has a slight amber tint). Water based is almost perfectly clear.

My recomendation also is to not re-stain, stain will evenly darken all areas unless you play around with leaving more stain on the lighter areas. That, IMO, is asking for trouble. Thats why I like the toner I recomended in my earlier post. It even out the color and is easy to use. You have oak, they have an oak color toner. That should make things much more even and not a whole lot darker (a little). Its a spray can but as long as its not hundreds of sq feet it will be a good solution. A pro would do the same thing although he would use a spray gun (no so easy and a lot more $$$). Pick up a can, try it out on the back of a door where it wont show. Worst case is you don't like it and wipe it off with lacquer thinner before it dries or sand it off when dry. If you are dead set on polyurathane then you could brush that on over the toner.

shapeshifter · 02-09-2007, 05:47 PM

Yea! There is a Woodcraft Store in San Antonio, not too far from me. I will give it a try. Thanks so much for the input.

Brik · 02-09-2007, 05:59 PM

Post back with the results. I would like to hear how it worked for you.

shapeshifter · 02-09-2007, 06:29 PM

I sure will.

By the way, is the tone available in a liquid that can be brushed on? The bathroom reno is an interior bath with no window and very little room. Boo Hoo.

Brik · 02-09-2007, 06:39 PM

No brushing. Sorry. Vent fan? It does smell bad. If you have a mask that may be good. It goes quick. Just hit it and run. remember, with sprays use light coats. Too much at once will cause runs.

shapeshifter · 02-09-2007, 06:47 PM

Just worried about over-spray. If I cover up, will I have to buy stock in the paint cloth company? LOL