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Old 07-18-2009, 08:38 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kirkpala View Post
Is the third picture in your original post showing how you are checking for plumb? I shouldn't be able to see the stud behind the level like that. It looks like you are trying to eyeball the edge of the level along the edge of the stud. If so, it would be more accurate to hold the smaller, flat edge of the level against the stud to check for plumb. Or maybe your level isn't accurate? Unlikely to be the problem - but possible.
Kirkpala, you're right. I wasn't placing the level on the stud correctly when checking for plumb. Does it matter which part of the stud I check?

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Old 07-18-2009, 09:18 AM   #17
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Like has been already mentioned in the thread. Put it against the 1.5" side to check to make sure your wall doesn't lean toward or away from your stairs. Put it against the 3.5" side to make sure the studs run parallel to each other. If your wood is straight, it won't matter where. If it is bowed or warped you will get different measurements depending on where you put it. Also make sure you aren't holding it against any obvious raised spots, like damaged areas.
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Old 07-18-2009, 09:51 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by joetab24 View Post
Kirkpala, you're right. I wasn't placing the level on the stud correctly when checking for plumb. Does it matter which part of the stud I check?
You are making this way more complicated than it is. If your layout is correct plumb between the valleys (3.5" side) is not as important as spacing. The spacing is what determines where the drywall or other sheathing will hit. You want the wall to be plumb from the 1.5" side. Also you need to use the biggest level possible to truly plumb the wall. I use a 7' level when plumbing a 8' high wall. Using a four foot level will give you variable readings.
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Old 07-18-2009, 10:06 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by ARI001 View Post
You are making this way more complicated than it is. If your layout is correct plumb between the valleys (3.5" side) is not as important as spacing. The spacing is what determines where the drywall or other sheathing will hit. You want the wall to be plumb from the 1.5" side. Also you need to use the biggest level possible to truly plumb the wall. I use a 7' level when plumbing a 8' high wall. Using a four foot level will give you variable readings.

Thanks for the reply. I got it. I definitely have a tendency to get muddled in details when performing a task I've never done. I want to do things myself, but I don't want the work to be half a**. After completing a task, I guess its easier to see the forest from the trees. That's why this forum is so great. Because honestly, my dad (I am 31), who has very little patience, will just try to take over and do something if I ask too many questions.
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Old 07-18-2009, 10:34 AM   #20
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Yup I only check the face with a 7' level
I make very sure that the stud @48" is centered to take the drywall
Make sure you measure from the edge (corner) of the 1st stud for that 48" & not the middle

If a 2x is bowed you can put blocking in to keep the sides straight
But really not needed
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Old 07-18-2009, 12:36 PM   #21
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Scuba, how do you put a photo under your name?
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Old 07-18-2009, 12:53 PM   #22
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"User CP' in the left side of the black bar (looks black on my pc)
"Edit Avatar"

There are restrictions on sizes you can use

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The maximum size of your custom image is 100 by 100 pixels or 95.37 MB (whichever is smaller
I'm pretty sure that is supposed to be "bytes", not Megabytes
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Old 07-18-2009, 05:57 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joetab24 View Post
Thanks for the reply. I got it. I definitely have a tendency to get muddled in details when performing a task I've never done. I want to do things myself, but I don't want the work to be half a**. After completing a task, I guess its easier to see the forest from the trees. That's why this forum is so great. Because honestly, my dad (I am 31), who has very little patience, will just try to take over and do something if I ask too many questions.

One other thing. The stud at the bottom of the stair should be doubled!
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Old 07-18-2009, 07:15 PM   #24
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You do have to put the blocking in if your not going to insulate. Required by code (fire blocking).
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Old 07-18-2009, 07:34 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ARI001 View Post
You do have to put the blocking in if your not going to insulate. Required by code (fire blocking).
Fire blocking has very specific requirements & is based on stud cavity area & ability for a fire to spread. An enclosed 16" stud bay 8' high does not require fire blocking. If this was part of a house being built & you di dnot have that top header/and/or the wall was open to the 1st floor cavity then you would need fireblocking.

Please Refer to this thread in the How To Guides section written by thekctermite - a Mod on the board:

How to fireblock framing
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Old 07-18-2009, 08:10 PM   #26
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As in this case it is needed next to a set of stairs.
Fire Stops
Fire blocking is required in all stud walls at ceilings and floor levels. The vertical distance between blocking shall not exceed 10 feet. Blocking is required between studs along and in line with the run of a stair stringer in stairway sidewalls.

As ARI001 correctly said. Be safe, G
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Old 07-18-2009, 09:42 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by GBAR in WA View Post
As in this case it is needed next to a set of stairs.
Fire Stops
Fire blocking is required in all stud walls at ceilings and floor levels. The vertical distance between blocking shall not exceed 10 feet. Blocking is required between studs along and in line with the run of a stair stringer in stairway sidewalls.

As ARI001 correctly said. Be safe, G
Only if it is over 10 feet, I believe it is actually over 9 feet not 10"
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Old 07-18-2009, 11:52 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuba_Dave View Post
Fire blocking has very specific requirements & is based on stud cavity area & ability for a fire to spread. An enclosed 16" stud bay 8' high does not require fire blocking. If this was part of a house being built & you di dnot have that top header/and/or the wall was open to the 1st floor cavity then you would need fireblocking.

Please Refer to this thread in the How To Guides section written by thekctermite - a Mod on the board:

How to fireblock framing
Refer to:

IRC R602.8

You also have to put drywall up in the stairway for final inspection. I don't need a thread to tell me that either. I understand and I am aware of the requirements for fire blocking, furthermore I have have passed the building exam in my state. Fire blocking of some sort is required.
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Old 07-19-2009, 02:03 PM   #29
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Section R602.8. Fire-blocking and draft-stopping shall be installed to cut
off all concealed draft openings (both vertical and horizontal) and shall form an effective barrier
between floors, between a top story and a roof or attic space, and shall subdivide attic spaces,
concealed roof spaces and floor-ceiling assemblies. Fire blocking shall be provided every 10 feet
both vertically and horizontally, in concealed spaces of stud walls and partitions and at the ceiling
and floor levels, including soffits, drop ceilings, cove ceilings, stair stringers, around vents, pipes,
ducts, chimneys and fireplaces, and similar openings which afford a passage for fire at ceiling and
floor levels.

The stairs are the floor level in between level floors. The space under the stairs is concealed, and needs to be blocked off from fire getting in or out to spread above the stairs, to the next floor. Be safe, G
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Old 07-20-2009, 01:37 AM   #30
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Fireblocking is only required in concealed spaces to isolate vertical from horizontal elements. If the stair walls and underside of the stairs are not sheetrocked, you don't have a concealed space and fireblocks are not required by the IRC.

ARI001, there is nothing in the code requiring stairs or stair walls to be sheetrocked. If concealed spaces under stairs in finished areas are accessible (for storage) then the underside of the stairs and the supporting structure of the stairs must be rocked, per the IRC. Otherwise it is not required, period.

Although many jurisdictions may, around here we don't require the walls adjoining the stair to be rocked because the rock is laid tight to the stringer and serves as a fireblock. It can be verified after the rock is installed before the finished treads go in. Less conventional stairs (cuved, winders, etc) that don't have conventional stringers are different and require blocking at the wall. It has nothing to do with the height of the wall...The 10' fireblocking interval is not applicable in this case...Vertical to horizontal isolation is...That applies in walls of any height. The tops (and technically the bottoms) of the stair stringers must be fireblocked from the floor system IF CONCEALED.

Insulating a wall does not guarantee an effective fireblock. If kraft-faced insulation is used at the line of the fireblock then the entire system is ineffective. The highly combustible face acts like a wick in a fire, and must be removed below and above the line of the fireblock.

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