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Old 12-13-2009, 02:22 PM   #31
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Thanks for all the great info and thanks for the link to the fire-stopping thread. I am almost through it, great thread.

I had planned on using a PT bottom plate and leaving a 1\2"-1 gap between the wall and the framing. I will now be using fire-stop on the top gap and every 10' along the wall. I am also going to buy some fire rated insulation for the rim joist openings on the foundation.

Is it code to use PT on the inside or can I just use the gasket?

I have also decided to run the walls all the way up to the floor joist. It just didn't sit right with me leaving that gap at the top. I like the idea of just buying the 104" studs. I don't remember seeing them in HD or Lowes so I may have to go tot he local lumber yard for them. I also plan on insulating all the way up and using a vapor barrier. I may just piece the top 6" of drywall as well as it will be covered and no need to mud and tape.

This job is for a friend of mine and I want to make sure everything is done the right way, if not a step farther. I also want to learn as much as I can in the process and if it weren't for forums like this, it would make it much harder.

Thanks again for everyone's help, Scott...


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Old 12-13-2009, 04:03 PM   #32
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STYROFOAM Sill Seal Foam Gasket
  • STYROFOAM Sill Seal Gasket, a flexible polyethylene foam gasketing strip, is primarily used to reduce air infiltration between concrete foundation and sill plate or around windows. During installation, this gasket is compressed, sealing gaps between the foundation wall and sill plate or around windows, thus cutting heating and cooling costs.
  • STYROFOAM Sill Seal helps eliminate air leaks where the top of the foundation meets the frame wall sill plate. The top of the foundation is often irregular and not smooth, and a gap often develops at this junction. Up to 40 percent of a home's heat can be lost due to air infiltration, much of this through this gap, and while some products merely filter the air, STYROFOAM Sill Seal blocks it completely.
  • Uses: Recommended for residential applications, specifically for sealing the gap between the foundation and sill plate. STYROFOAM Sill Seal can also help fix almost any gap, joint, crack, or crevice in which air can enter and without it, homes are not truly sealed
  • Building Requirements: Not applicable. From:

Building codes do not require it, but codes are the bare minimum. I started framing in the early ‘70’s, when concrete stem walls were out of level 1” in 20’, let alone level or smooth on top where the plate should have full contact. In earlier times the carpenter would grout the gaps to that end. When you pour concrete and float the wall top, it raises water (slurry) which looks level when wet. As the concrete dries and shrinks, the rocks are exposed and ride high, unless the finisher abraded the top concrete with re-bar or a flat-nosed shovel right after stripping the forms.

This is where, IF my house---- I would use a sill sealer. On an interior wall, on concrete, who knows if there was a vapor barrier installed under the slab before the pour. Concrete is permeable to water coming from the soil. A simple test is taping plastic down and waiting/watching for condensation. You cannot tell by looking at a slab as the surface water is turning to vapor as air is moving across it, so it always looks dry. Even the plastic test shows no water at that season of year or that particular small area.
I recommend a sill sealer for that reason (capillary wicking) as well as a thermal break from the plate being heated from the room air to the much cooler slab. Sill sealer, or a sealant also is part of the interior air seal needed to keep heated/cooled air in, saving money. All the pictures at the end of the article: Tell him not to forget this:
Yes, the p.t. is required, yet ask your local B.D.
Hopes this helps!
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17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
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Old 12-26-2009, 01:39 AM   #33
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Buy the lumber needed to get to the ceiling. Time is money. its faster to do it right the first time that to cut corners. If you bought a house that a contractor cut corners on the whole project you would not be getting what you thought. I definately frame floor to ceiling using the proper length studs and sheetrock to the ceiling joist.if you ever decide to hang rock on the ceiling then you would not have to piece in the top of the wall.
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Old 12-26-2009, 07:27 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by ClemS View Post
i have not seen masonry/concrete having an adverse effect on untreated wood.

most homes around here that are 25+ years old, have an untreated fir sill, with no damage caused by concrete they're laying on. any damage that does exist is water and/or termite related. otherwise the sill is completely intact.

some of the older homes have redwood sill plates, that behave very similarly. if there is a water problem, the sill is gone

same goes for new houses with PT plates. mind you, the PT stuff that is readily available is not ground contact or full submersion in water. It's your regular household above ground PT. If there's a water problem and the stuff is getting drenched, it will rot fairly quick.

CODE is however to use PT wherever wood is in contact with masonry/concrete. so whenever you do anything that will be inspected, use PT, if for no other reason than to appease your local official. but if you're fixing up your basement and really don't care for using/cutting/breathing chemically treated lumber, don't worry about it that's all I'm saying.


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