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Old 01-31-2013, 09:10 PM   #16
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If you watch any of the home improvement shows, caulk is part of most trim work.


Do you want it your way or the right way?
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Old 02-01-2013, 06:24 AM   #17
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You need to understand caulk is used to create tight lines between joints not for filling gaping hole in shoty work
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:15 AM   #18
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Our carpenter is coming by tomorrow (Saturday) to check out the work. What his guys installed was a pre-primed baseboard, not sure of the type of wood, but I do know that one of the guys commented that he doesn't like working with whatever kind of material it was. Maybe because it's too hard to cope? I have no idea.

So, is there a reasonable margin I should be looking at? Someone mentioned nothing more than 1/8". Like I said before, our biggest worry is that the caulk will shrink/crack/fall out if the gap is too big.

Our carpenter sounds like he is willing to fix it if there is really a problem, he said he wants to make sure we're happy, so that's good. He himself does excellent work, but he wasn't always here watching the guys under him when they were here.
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:02 AM   #19
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Inside corners are the toughest. A coping saw is your best friend. Fine tuning if you will.
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:10 AM   #20
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a good quality painters caulk will hold its shape over the long haul just as wood will hold its shape. it goes back to the caulk being used, did they use cheap caulk that will harden and fall out of the crack or good caulk that will fill the crack and mold itself to the void with flexible adherence over time.

I've installed miles of trim and it is not uncommon to grab the caulk gun for small cracks and joints though our painter asks that we not caulk to raw wood as he likes to add primer before the caulking...
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Old 02-01-2013, 04:05 PM   #21
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3/16" is about the max gap you can fill with painters caulk before it shows up in the paint.. once paint hits the materail bad joints and nail holes will stand out even more especially with semi gloss which is tyically used for trim

stain grade work takes more time and a highly skilled carpenter to do it. theres no margin for error. ive done a few in my day the most recent was last march using poplar that was stained to look like cherry. memory serves correct based on the size of the master bedroom it took me roughly 3 hrs to install the baseboard so that the joints were air tight and i matched the grain pattern as well as the color so that it looked like one solid piece. if this room were in paint grade it should only take about 45 minutes, while cutting outdoors
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Baseboard joints in corners-stain-2.jpg   Baseboard joints in corners-stain1.jpg   Baseboard joints in corners-stain3.jpg   Baseboard joints in corners-stain4.jpg   Baseboard joints in corners-paint1.jpg  

Baseboard joints in corners-paint2.jpg  


Last edited by woodworkbykirk; 02-01-2013 at 04:09 PM.
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