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Old 07-20-2009, 10:55 AM   #31
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Baseboard coped edge


Jat123,
Even if you have "pressure on the joint" the wood still expands and contracts. If you are doing what I suspect you are, cutting the pieces a little big to apply pressure you are still going to have issues at some point. This can also give smaller mouldings the "rippled look". It can cause bigger mouldings to bow out off the wall. It can also still contract enough to open up a gap. I have had to go behind guys and correct all of these issues in the past. If you are installing the trim snugly the joint will open and close periodically. As has been explained, you want to control the line of sight.

I would venture to say after 30 years Sky probably can cope in his sleep. I agree with you that a poor cope is not going to look good no matter how it is installed. I would also imagine all three of us are quite capable of making proper copes. That is not the issue. The issue is where to put the cope. That is also where I guess we will have to agree to disagree.

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Old 07-20-2009, 11:07 AM   #32
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Well I'm guessing like both of you, I get the chance to see my work after 1, 2, 10 years, etc. (when doing other projects for the homeowner) and you can both guess what I would tell you. (and no it's not that all the joints opened up ).

I guess I must have just been lucky all those times.
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Old 07-20-2009, 11:12 AM   #33
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Well I'm guessing like both of you, I get the chance to see my work after 1, 2, 10 years, etc. (when doing other projects for the homeowner) and you can both guess what I would tell you. (and no it's not that all the joints opened up ).

I guess I must have just been lucky all those times.
Well you know, sometimes I guess its better to be lucky than good.
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Old 07-20-2009, 11:31 AM   #34
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Old 07-20-2009, 01:17 PM   #35
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So would I just glue the back of the small 1/2" pc and put it to the wall? Would you glue the coped part and the butt part as well? lol
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:26 PM   #36
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OH NO I CANT "COPE" WITH THIS ANYMORE!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sox: All you need is glue the back of the return pc. There really should not be any "meat" on the coped edge for glue anyway :}:}:}

Jay we have agreed to disagree. I dare say your way is slower and more difficult to do, requires way more refinement and precision. As long as you are not trying to do production work it just make it harder. Doing trim full time, your way will cost you alot of time and money. That said whatever floats your boat is fine.
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:37 PM   #37
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Guess what? Done plenty of "production" mini-mcmansions (3-3500 sq.ft. 5 br's, crown all over the place, the same way. I (and I'm guessing you) can measure, cut and install base or crown in an average square room in less than 15 minutes...and all nice and tight

Now this takes into account tools all set-up (preferably nearby ).
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:38 PM   #38
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Yeah I agree with that. I have never seen it done Jay's way. You don't want 2 sides coped. Plus that is a more difficult fit. You have to be dead on with the measurement.
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:42 PM   #39
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Yeah I agree with that. I have never seen it done Jay's way. You don't want 2 sides coped. Plus that is a more difficult fit. You have to be dead on with the measurement.
This is pretty easy to do. I use a stabila laser measurer (LE50) for better speed and accuracy, but it wasn't ever too difficult with a tape either.
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:47 PM   #40
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It doesn't hurt using a set-up like this either :
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Baseboard coped edge-dscn1143.jpg   Baseboard coped edge-dscn1149.jpg   Baseboard coped edge-dscn1151.jpg  
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:49 PM   #41
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I also use crown stops with this table system, great table, 9' to either side (also have a couple of 5' tables for tighter spaces).
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Old 07-20-2009, 04:27 PM   #42
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Jay: Anyone claiming 15 mins or less has got to be the Champion Bovine Residue shoveler
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Old 07-20-2009, 05:47 PM   #43
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measure, cut, install. Now remember this is a basic 12 x 12 room (or so) with 9 ft ceilings. 2 sides flat on both ends, 2 sides coped on both ends. Cordless dewalt nailer...boom boom boom. And like I said, tight.

It becomes a game during production work, just to keep from being bored.

Saw station and material set up in the house....new mcmansions, remember.

1 guy:

Measure: 2-3 mins (laser measure)
Cut: 2-3 mins (includes walk to saw station)
Cope 4 cuts: 3-4 minutes (standard 3 5/8" crown)
Install: 5-6 minutes

Total: 13-16 minutes. I've done a ton of this timed with my stopwatch, like I said, production trim can get boring.

I'm not saying by the end of the day a room might not take me 20-25 minutes, but I've done it in under 15 hundreds of times.

Sit and look at your watch for 3 minutes thinking how much you could get done once you're in the groove and you're set up for production. All the crown's directly behind you, all facing the correct way for cutting (upside down and in place).

You've done production trim, right? Myself and another guy would finish 3000 sq. ft. + in 40-50 man hours depending on floor plan, how many pediments, how much wainscoting (just shadow-boxes, remember...mcmansions).

It's not that hard.
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Old 07-20-2009, 05:50 PM   #44
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Jay: Anyone claiming 15 mins or less has got to be the Champion Bovine Residue shoveler

After you're all set up for production and you're in "your groove", how long would an adjacent room take you to crown do you think?
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Old 07-20-2009, 06:15 PM   #45
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Jay; unless you are 7' tall with another 7 footer it is going to take almost 10 mins to setup the horses and planks.
If you can do a 12 x 12 room in 15 mins or less than you are the best trimmer on the planet. When I was running trim full time there were 3 of us, 1 cutting and 2 hanging and banging with a hell of a lot of yrs between us and we couldnt do it, so my hats off to ya.

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