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Old 07-16-2009, 04:45 PM   #1
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Baseboard coped edge


Yeah. I have worked my way around the room with baseboard. Now I am at a bit of a dilema. I am not sure how to layout this wall. Here is a picture of it. I wanna know where the coped sides should be. Can I have a coped edge on the same piece that is a 45 mitre or should I straight cut that to the wall?


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Old 07-16-2009, 05:01 PM   #2
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Baseboard coped edge


I think it would be fine to cope one end of a piece and miter the other end for the outside corner. Cut your coped end and get it fitting nice, then cut your miter. Sneak up on the miter cut and take tiny cuts until it fits right...No place for a tape measure!

Doing it the other way you're looking at coping both ends of the piece at the top of the drawing (or a scarf joint in the middle)...Not fun.

Don't forget to glue those outside corners!

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Old 07-16-2009, 05:09 PM   #3
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Baseboard coped edge


Just for future reference always place your copes along the line your eye will travel upon entering the room. In the example you have above you would cope the corners on the left and right walls.
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Old 07-16-2009, 05:25 PM   #4
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Baseboard coped edge


On the back wall should I do that piece first and just straight cut both ends?
Another thing those 45's for the outside walls are not really 45's. They are more than that because the wall is off I am guessing cause of the corner bead. Now the chop saw I have can go 2 degree's past 45 however when I place the piece of baseboard standing up against the guide the 10" blade doesn't cut all the way through. This wouldnt be a problem if the baseboard didn't have a profile on it. It is hard to cut the rest of that with a backsaw to make it clean. If only my chop saw would go past the 45 on the tilt. Any help on this would be nice. Thanks.

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Old 07-16-2009, 06:26 PM   #5
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Baseboard coped edge


Soxfan33,

You are correct that the back wall will have "butt" cuts (90's) both ends. The two side walls will each have a cope and an outside corner.

Regarding your saw delema - there are lots of guys with 9 fingers who could tell you how to do it on your chop saw! You have two options:

1. If you have lots of cuts to make greater than 45 degrees - rent a saw. Many go to 50 - 55 degrees.

2. If you only have a few of these cuts to make - use your back saw, with a file and sanding block (remember the only place the joint is seen is on the very outside (where the two tips meet).

Good luck!

Paul
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Old 07-16-2009, 07:51 PM   #6
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dont stand the base up; place a pc of 3/4" UNDER the base on the flat and then cut it.
ARIoo1 Man you stole my super secret NOW I gotta confiscate your coping saw!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:13 PM   #7
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[quote=Soxfan33;302756]On the back wall should I do that piece first and just straight cut both ends?
Another thing those 45's for the outside walls are not really 45's. They are more than that because the wall is off I am guessing cause of the corner bead.

Yes to the back wall question. For the outside miter use a protractor to find the angle. Take that number and subtract it from 90. Divide by 2. That will give you the angle of the cut. Hold the trim in place and mark for an accurate measurement. Leave the line when you make the cut and fine tune as necessary.
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:18 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skymaster View Post
dont stand the base up; place a pc of 3/4" UNDER the base on the flat and then cut it.
ARIoo1 Man you stole my super secret NOW I gotta confiscate your coping saw!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You can't have my miter saw either !!!
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Old 07-16-2009, 10:22 PM   #9
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Mine is BIGGER than yours anyway ROFLMFAO
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Old 07-17-2009, 04:33 PM   #10
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Baseboard coped edge


the back wall should be "cope to cope", meaning both ends are coped...the only way it makes sense...the cope cuts put pressure on the adjoining flat/butt cuts ... the left and right (interior) cuts are "butt/square/flat"... the reason to cope to put pressure on the joint
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Old 07-17-2009, 04:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay123 View Post
the back wall should be "cope to cope", meaning both ends are coped...the only way it makes sense...the cope cuts put pressure on the adjoining flat/butt cuts ... the left and right (interior) cuts are "butt/square/flat"... the reason to cope to put pressure on the joint


The reason you cope the side walls is when the wood expands and contracts over time any cracks will be less obvious.
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Old 07-17-2009, 04:57 PM   #12
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Baseboard coped edge


So...you would cope the left and right pieces into the back piece? Just wanna be sure.

Jay
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Old 07-17-2009, 07:37 PM   #13
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Jay: follow the bouncing ball ROFLOL the back or farthest pc IS STRAIGHT PC :}:} You then cope the sides INTO that pc.
Now this is the most difficult part, super secret, complicated part.
make your cope cuts as good as you can, leave the pcs long, butt them into the back pc and SMACK THE END with a hammer to drive that coped end tighter, then mark the mitered ends right along the corner they are on, NO RULERS NEEDED.DO NOT NAIL THEM YET, the opposing sides of the mitered corners repeat the process, cope em whack em, scribe em, then put em together and all should br nice and tight then nail the beaches I will send the invoice for "Trim School"
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Old 07-18-2009, 09:44 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skymaster View Post
Jay: follow the bouncing ball ROFLOL the back or farthest pc IS STRAIGHT PC :}:} You then cope the sides INTO that pc.
Now this is the most difficult part, super secret, complicated part.
make your cope cuts as good as you can, leave the pcs long, butt them into the back pc and SMACK THE END with a hammer to drive that coped end tighter, then mark the mitered ends right along the corner they are on, NO RULERS NEEDED.DO NOT NAIL THEM YET, the opposing sides of the mitered corners repeat the process, cope em whack em, scribe em, then put em together and all should br nice and tight then nail the beaches I will send the invoice for "Trim School"
Don't forget to send me my half!
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Old 07-19-2009, 12:18 PM   #15
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ARI001: eNCLOSED PLEASE FIND 57 BAZILLION DOLLARS IN CASH PER OUR CONTRACT FOR CONSULTING FEES IN THE "ADVANCED TRIM SCHOOL CLASS 07/2009.
THANK YOU AGAIN FOR YOUR SUPERIOR KNOWLEDGE AND ASSISTANCE IN THIS ENDEAVOR

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