Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Carpentry

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 02-11-2014, 06:23 PM   #1
Member
 
msaeger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 259
Share |
Default

Base molding questions


I am installing oak 1x4's for base molding and want some opinions on installing it. I am doing butt joints on the inside corners and miters on the outside.

Should I glue the joints?

Should I glue the base board to the wall with construction adhesive? I have read to do this but I am thinking if you ever want to remove the base boards you would wreak the drywall.

The walls are 24 on center in a lot of places. If the moulding isn't tight to the wall in between studs is there anything I can do? I can't really nail into the sill because I added plywood and hardwood flooring so the finished floor is above the sill on the outside walls.

msaeger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 08:25 PM   #2
journeyman carpenter
 
woodworkbykirk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: nova scotia canada
Posts: 2,674
Default

Base molding questions


if it were paint grade i would do butt joints for the inside corners butt since its sounds like stain grade i woiuld mitre it unless its getting a basecap.

glue isnt required for inside corners but definitely glue the outside corners, also since the studs are 24" o.c construction adhesive will definitely help

woodworkbykirk is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to woodworkbykirk For This Useful Post:
msaeger (02-11-2014)
Old 02-11-2014, 08:44 PM   #3
Member
 
msaeger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 259
Default

Base molding questions


When I glue the outside corners should I nail through the corner too?

The wood is stained and I'm not planing to do a base cap unless I end up with a big gap at the top

Last edited by msaeger; 02-11-2014 at 08:49 PM.
msaeger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 10:41 PM   #4
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 3
Default

Base molding questions


Quote:
Originally Posted by msaeger View Post
When I glue the outside corners should I nail through the corner too?

The wood is stained and I'm not planing to do a base cap unless I end up with a big gap at the top
I always do. Depending on how nice a room it is, you also might want to put your carpenter square on those corners as corner beading often makes the outside corners not quite 90 degrees. Often you will get a tighter fit cutting the miter at 46 or 47 degrees. Cut a couple of miters out of scrap and see how they fit.
drice is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to drice For This Useful Post:
woodworkbykirk (02-12-2014)
Old 02-11-2014, 10:47 PM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Hartfield VA
Posts: 26,248
Default

Base molding questions


No way would I use 1 X 4's for a base, and if I had to no way would I not use base cap.
It's going to look cheap and is going to be a dust catcher with a flat top like that.
__________________
When posting in forums, letting us know your location will help others give better feedback/advice/solutions to your questions
joecaption is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2014, 11:06 AM   #6
Member
 
msaeger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 259
Default

Base molding questions


Quote:
Originally Posted by drice View Post

I always do. Depending on how nice a room it is, you also might want to put your carpenter square on those corners as corner beading often makes the outside corners not quite 90 degrees. Often you will get a tighter fit cutting the miter at 46 or 47 degrees. Cut a couple of miters out of scrap and see how they fit.
The one outside corner I did so far actually fit good with 45's I didn't think 45 would work on any of them :-)
msaeger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2014, 01:12 PM   #7
Member
 
Jb1234's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Chicago-area, il
Posts: 118
Default

Base molding questions


Are you going for more of a Mission/Shaker feel? I actually used 1x6's in my master bedroom, that's the vibe I was going for. I butted the corners both inside and outside. But again, I was going for a Shaker rustic sort of feel. In this application I think it came out looking real good, it went perfectly with the "theme" of the room. But it would not work in 95% of styles.
Jb1234 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2014, 01:42 PM   #8
Member
 
msaeger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 259
Default

Base molding questions


I have been calling it craftsman style. I am mostly copying this handyman article.

http://www.familyhandyman.com/video/...m.htm?m_n=true

I did the windows and doors the same as the article but on base I not planning on doing the cap and shoe unless I find I need it to cover gaps.
msaeger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2014, 03:47 PM   #9
journeyman carpenter
 
woodworkbykirk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: nova scotia canada
Posts: 2,674
Default

Base molding questions


joe is right about 1x4 looking cheap.. its too small. honestly 1x6 looks much better for baseboard. your probably going with 1x4 to keep costs down i imagine since your using oak.

http://bethepro.com/custom-trim-molding-installation-guide

thats an article i did last year. just some general rules of thumb for trim installs
woodworkbykirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2014, 04:06 PM   #10
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 3
Default

Base molding questions


Interesting. Both articles use the same picture. So you are doing the first step in your article and may add the rest later.

Last edited by drice; 02-12-2014 at 04:09 PM.
drice is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2014, 04:18 PM   #11
Member
 
Jb1234's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Chicago-area, il
Posts: 118
Default

Base molding questions


Msaeger, I used that very same article before as reference and my door trim is basically exactly the same! I felt it was relatively easy to put together and looked substantial without being over the top.
Jb1234 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2014, 07:30 PM   #12
Member
 
msaeger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 259
Default

Base molding questions


I chose 1x4 over 1x6 because after holding a test piece up we liked the 1x4 better. I also thought it would be much harder to install 1x6's it wouldn't have cost too much money really. 1x4 still has some flex.

I may end up doing a top cap and shoe like in the handyman article depending on if I end up with gaps.
msaeger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2014, 08:31 PM   #13
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 58
Default

Base molding questions


Concerning the possibility of gaps between the base and wall in the joist bay, you may try to cross nail in the same hole (1st nail 30* left from straight in and 2nd nail 30* to the right). Essentially, you are nailing to the drywall, but when you nail with this pattern you get better holding power.
jponto07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2014, 09:32 PM   #14
Member
 
msaeger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 259
Default

Base molding questions


Quote:
Originally Posted by jponto07 View Post
Concerning the possibility of gaps between the base and wall in the joist bay, you may try to cross nail in the same hole (1st nail 30* left from straight in and 2nd nail 30* to the right). Essentially, you are nailing to the drywall, but when you nail with this pattern you get better holding power.
I will try that I didn't even bother nailing anywhere there wasn't a stud because I didn't think it would hold anyway.
msaeger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 03:30 PM   #15
journeyman carpenter
 
woodworkbykirk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: nova scotia canada
Posts: 2,674
Default

Base molding questions


cross nailing does work but it should be done with adhesive as well.. its the only way to nail when your trimming out a place that has steel studs.. the only place you will find wood is in door and window openings

woodworkbykirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Trying to remove base molding h22lude Flooring 3 05-29-2013 12:59 PM
Base molding and flooring aunteemom Flooring 7 01-30-2011 08:03 PM
base molding painting w/ carpet fabian Painting 2 04-02-2009 07:57 PM
Carpet then base molding or what? Jeekinz Flooring 4 10-10-2008 12:02 PM
base molding and carpet doc70 Flooring 2 04-09-2008 11:33 AM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.