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Old 03-06-2009, 04:03 PM   #1
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another pre-hung door question


My search on this issue did not answer the following question (new construction): Once the door is in place and shimmed, what is normally used to fasten it to the framing? Countersink holes for screws (later filled and painted), or nails?

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Old 03-06-2009, 04:39 PM   #2
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another pre-hung door question


I dont' install enough of them to know for sure, but I just use finish nails, guess you could screw them in if you want to. this almost sounds like you are questioning your contractor. This would not be of concern to me, whether they used screws or nails., Just my 2cents.

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Old 03-06-2009, 05:50 PM   #3
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another pre-hung door question


nails are most common. Screws are used by some and have the advantage of adjusting the level slightly a little more easily.
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Old 03-06-2009, 07:31 PM   #4
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another pre-hung door question


Remove the doorstop, 3" screws into the studs. Replace the doorstop which hides the screw heads.
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Old 03-06-2009, 08:15 PM   #5
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another pre-hung door question


Nails for an interior prehung and screws for a exterior prehung.
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Old 03-06-2009, 09:16 PM   #6
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another pre-hung door question


You might say I am questioning the contractor - since it is me. I just thought that screws can be backed out if I don't get it perfect the first time. For finishing nails, I guess I could use a punch and hit them all the way through if I make a mistake.

Thanks for the tips.
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Old 03-06-2009, 10:48 PM   #7
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another pre-hung door question


you could use trim screws if you like,they have a smaller head easier to hide
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Old 03-07-2009, 07:28 AM   #8
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another pre-hung door question


Depends. For solid core and exterior I use both, shims and nails to set them then screws at each corner. Which can then be filled just like the nail holes. For hollow core, just the nails and shims will do.
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Old 03-07-2009, 07:38 AM   #9
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another pre-hung door question


i set the door flush and plumb with shims, pre-drill THROUGH the shims and jamb and screw. trim shims.

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Old 03-07-2009, 08:09 AM   #10
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another pre-hung door question


I will be installing five interior, six panel, hollow core doors in my basement. One is a double. The last time I did this it took a couple of attempts, hence my inclination toward screws. Now I have another question. One single doors, is it necessary to secure the jam on top? Seems unnecessary. For the double door, I will shim and screw/nail in the center, as the one side is fixed into the jam with a latch/bolt.

Again, thanks for all the great tips.
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Old 03-07-2009, 08:18 AM   #11
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another pre-hung door question


Quote:
Originally Posted by SR996 View Post
I will be installing five interior, six panel, hollow core doors in my basement. One is a double. The last time I did this it took a couple of attempts, hence my inclination toward screws. Now I have another question.
The standard method for installing pre-hung doors is to hand nail a 15g finish nail into the door jamb, at the locations of the hinges, and correspondingly on the opposite jamb. The headsare left above the wood's surface, to allow for removal and adjustment, if needed.

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....On single doors, is it necessary to secure the jam on top? Seems unnecessary....
No, it is not necessary, however, I prefer to install a nail dead center on the header jamb section, if it is a split jamb pre-hung door frame.
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Old 03-07-2009, 08:22 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by jaros bros. View Post
Nails for an interior prehung and screws for a exterior prehung.
FWIW - I second this advice.

Exterior doors - the screw is installed just behind the vertical weahter stripping, so that the stripping folds back and hides the screw head. If a screw must be placed in a visible part of the jamb, we will counter-sink the head. Then fill the hole with patching compound, to visibly hide it.
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Old 03-07-2009, 11:10 PM   #13
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another pre-hung door question


+1 on removing the interior door stops for the pre hung doors especially on the hinge side. Make sure to mark their location before removing. Use the door shim packs, theyre just easier to use. Things to check before you start. Check to see if the floor is level if theres no carpeting going down or if its sitting on a finished floor. If not, youre going to have to cut one of the legs. If there is carpeting you can let the hinge side sit on a shim. Remove the door. Perfectly shim and level the hinge side. What I like to do is put shims in whereever the hinges are. Use finish nails above and below the shims nailed where the stop was. No nails in the shims yet. Continue to level the hinge side. When finished leveling, then nail off the shims outside the area of the door stop. Make sure when you shim, the hsims go in opposing thicknesses from both sides. When done, attach door again. Use a shim and determine what the factory gap is on the hinge side and carry that over to the stricke side. Shim and nail off the other side make sure to put shims where the strike is. Attch door stops and knob and thats it.

Done.

For molding, take a small 6X6 piece of pine and put a 3/16 rabbet on one side. Trace that onto your jambs for your molding reveal. Its perfect everytime.
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Old 03-14-2009, 08:42 AM   #14
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another pre-hung door question


It took my dad and I about 3.5 hours to hang 6 doors. I used nails, and it worked out great. Glad I spent extra time making sure the framing was plumb and square when laying out the basement a few months ago. Moldings today...

Thank you for all the great tips.
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Old 03-30-2009, 11:37 PM   #15
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another pre-hung door question


What size nails did you use for this? I will be installing the same in my basement (6-panel hollowcore, one of which is a double).

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