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-   -   9 foot span ok for metal studs as ceiling joists? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/9-foot-span-ok-metal-studs-ceiling-joists-21865/)

Garasaki 06-05-2008 10:51 AM

9 foot span ok for metal studs as ceiling joists?
 
I have this area I want to frame in my basement, where there is an engineered wood beam with my heating/ac duct trunk right behing it. I'd like to frame a bulkhead (or lower ceiling level) from the wood beam over to the nearest wall (see pictures). THe wood beam would form the nailing surface for the "face" of the bulkhead, and I would need to frame in the lower ceiling plane for the remaining nailing surface. I've sold myself on using metal studs for this - picked some up at local borg (which only had 25 gage, and don't get me started on the actually finding them in the store experience).

Originally I had planned on framing perpendicular to the wood beam - the blue lines in the drawings below. I then realized I would lose 4" of ceiling space because the studs would have to sit "on end" and pass below the ductwork.

I now would like to install the studs parellel to the wood beam - red lines in the drawing below.

My question is, will the steel studs be suitable for spanning the 9.5' from front to back? Should I install a steel channel halfway thru, and tie it into the floor joists above with some short "cripple" studs.

blue, plan A, red, what I'd like to do instead:

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h.../basement1.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h.../basement2.jpg

Flubber 06-27-2008 07:53 AM

Suspended ceiling?
 
Have you considered a suspended ceiling?

troubleseeker 07-01-2008 09:37 PM

Can you carry that span with metal studs, yes. With 25ga, no, you need to go to a drywall supplier and get some heavy gauge studs. 25ga is pure junk, even when used vertically as studs, much less horizontally as ceiling joists.

drewhart 08-19-2008 09:39 PM

who says 25 gauge is junk? they get sturdy with the drywall.

Termite 08-19-2008 10:49 PM

I think that 25 gauge studs are a little insufficient for this application. If there's a way to stiffback them or support them to the floor framing to reduce the span, I'd say it will work. Otherwise I'd opt for a heavier gauge.

terryfitz 08-22-2008 09:43 AM

From the look of the picture, it appears as if you are going to use the studs flat rather than on edge to meet that beam and to fit under the ductwork. In either case, you really should stiffback and hang each joist from the joists above since they are bound to sag over time. Don't forget to use some kind of insulation anywhere the metal studs touch that duct system so it doesn't make noise.

Garasaki 08-22-2008 09:59 AM

Sorta funny that this thread is getting a bunch of replies now.

I actually already handled this situation - by using metal C channels, running in the direction of the red lines, with furring channel running perpendicular (blue lines, right under the ductwork). Wire holding the metal C channel to the wood joists/floor above.

My understanding is that this is the "correct" way to frame a ceiling using metal components.

I'll try to post pics one of these days.

PS - I did actually stuff insulation between the furring channel and the ductwork, which works wonderfully.

comp 08-22-2008 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Garasaki (Post 150818)
Sorta funny that this thread is getting a bunch of replies now.

I actually already handled this situation - by using metal C channels, running in the direction of the red lines, with furring channel running perpendicular (blue lines, right under the ductwork). Wire holding the metal C channel to the wood joists/floor above.

My understanding is that this is the "correct" way to frame a ceiling using metal components.

I'll try to post pics one of these days.

PS - I did actually stuff insulation between the furring channel and the ductwork, which works wonderfully.


:thumbsup:


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