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Old 04-27-2013, 02:14 PM   #16
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32" cantilever BEAM Double 2x10 on a 19' run??


I have another piece of flashing that will go under the siding and over the ban board (or board on house, then my decking will go on, then my j channel I have a piece also on the bottom underneath the ban board that will kick water away from siding.

there is a footer under the slab, the deck was first, then the slab was put in, then were re-doing the deck. and yes, it was because the post was dead center in the window. trust me I wish I wish, I would of moved that post when I could. but unfortunately it is what it is.

So what is the opinions on my beam cantilever? The post relocation at this point would be a messy pain in the a*s, which isn't going to happen, so what's some options.

thanks again guys for the help and opinions.

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Old 04-27-2013, 04:42 PM   #17
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32" cantilever BEAM Double 2x10 on a 19' run??


Just seen your pics. At 40 psf live load and 10 psf dead load, you will NOT have a problem with the double 2x10.
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:01 PM   #18
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32" cantilever BEAM Double 2x10 on a 19' run??


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Originally Posted by csmonte View Post
I have another piece of flashing that will go under the siding and over the ban board (or board on house, then my decking will go on, then my j channel I have a piece also on the bottom underneath the ban board that will kick water away from siding.

there is a footer under the slab, the deck was first, then the slab was put in, then were re-doing the deck. and yes, it was because the post was dead center in the window. trust me I wish I wish, I would of moved that post when I could. but unfortunately it is what it is.

So what is the opinions on my beam cantilever? The post relocation at this point would be a messy pain in the a*s, which isn't going to happen, so what's some options.

thanks again guys for the help and opinions.
I do not see whay you can't saw cut the concrete right under the where that last post would go and dig it out with a post hole digger, and fill it with concrete, then mount your post. You could even form it like you have the rest of the posts.
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Old 05-03-2013, 03:22 PM   #19
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32" cantilever BEAM Double 2x10 on a 19' run??


thanks for the specs on loads and opinion. So anyone else have a helpful opinion? get some support or disapproval?
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Old 05-03-2013, 03:36 PM   #20
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32" cantilever BEAM Double 2x10 on a 19' run??


I only have one question. Built the way it is, that beam was a bit of a hassle. Why didn't you just laminate it up with lumber and plywood (the usual way) to the thickness you desired?
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Old 05-03-2013, 03:51 PM   #21
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32" cantilever BEAM Double 2x10 on a 19' run??


From a purely stuctural aspect, your deck is fine. The joists running out from the house only appear to cantilever out about one-fifth, which is OK, and the cantilevered end of the double 2x10 is not going south.

There have been a lot of references here to codes, but codes are generally very conservative and are formulated to allow for poor workmanship, amongst other things. Parts of your deck may or may not comply with your local code - I wouldn't know. My experience with codes is that if you choose to go outside them, you can, as long as you can justify your structure, and that usually means calculations provided by an SE, which of course means $$$.

If you want to keep legal, why not speak to your building authority and see what they say. But back on planet earth IMO your deck is OK.
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:14 PM   #22
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32" cantilever BEAM Double 2x10 on a 19' run??


Quote:
Originally Posted by tony.g View Post
From a purely stuctural aspect, your deck is fine. The joists running out from the house only appear to cantilever out about one-fifth, which is OK, and the cantilevered end of the double 2x10 is not going south.

There have been a lot of references here to codes, but codes are generally very conservative and are formulated to allow for poor workmanship, amongst other things. Parts of your deck may or may not comply with your local code - I wouldn't know. My experience with codes is that if you choose to go outside them, you can, as long as you can justify your structure, and that usually means calculations provided by an SE, which of course means $$$.

If you want to keep legal, why not speak to your building authority and see what they say. But back on planet earth IMO your deck is OK.
Tony,
With all due respect... Code is a minimum requirement of compliance. You can choose to exceed it but you need to meet the minimum allowed by people much smarter than you and I... Engineers.
As to an engineer reducing the minimum requirement of the applicable code, no way! No building department will allow it and no engineer will try and justify it. Actually, the calculations used to determine live loads, wind loads, shear loads, etc are spelled out in the building code for engineer to use. A cheat sheet template (if you would) outlining the mathematical equations needed to come up with the right framing members.
I don't mind you not following code or even csmonte not building the deck to code, I just prefer we don't give out advice to others that might want to follow the minimum building and safety requirements given to us simple people on our DIY projects.

csmonte,
As to your deck, I'd suggest a few small improvements to make it structurally better.
1. Add a middle 2x member to the self constructer beam to make it solid wherever possible. Stagger the nailing pattern (16d-20d commons) at 8"-10" o.c.
2. Add a "T" strap at all your post to beam connections to prevent turning. Best method is one on either side with through bolts connecting them. If you can't achieve that use on exterior side with pre-drilled 3/8" - 1/2" lag bolts.
3. If you want to shorter the cantilever span, add a corble from the post to the beam. Match it on the opposite side for cosmetic reasons if it looks "off"
4. Use a full sheet of plywood at the outer most edge of the deck. Use wood screws and glue. Minimum embedment into joists of 1 1/2" (pre-drill if needed to avoid splitting the joists).
5. Make sure your structural connection at the house is to the rim joist between floors. If you attached it to studs, send me a picture & I can help you there too. The attachment at the building carries almost 50% of the entire load of the deck. Let's make sure it stays connected.

This should make your deck much more structurally sound.

Good Luck!
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:42 PM   #23
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32" cantilever BEAM Double 2x10 on a 19' run??


At the end of the day, it will depend on whether your local building department will approve it. I personally would not leave it like that because it would bug me every time I looked at it, but that's just me, and its your deck.
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Old 05-04-2013, 04:23 AM   #24
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32" cantilever BEAM Double 2x10 on a 19' run??


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Actually, the calculations used to determine live loads, wind loads, shear loads, etc are spelled out in the building code for engineer to use. A cheat sheet template (if you would) outlining the mathematical equations needed to come up with the right framing members.


Hi InspectorZo;

Do you have a link for this, relevant to framing? I'd be interested to see the equations they apply. As an engineer, I'd be surprised if the allowable stresses in that deck would be exceeded.
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:28 PM   #25
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32" cantilever BEAM Double 2x10 on a 19' run??


UPDATE. I'm going to eliminate the beam setup, and put the posts at the corners then 2 equally spaced inside of that. So the support posts will sit on the outside board at 12 ft.

So: new topics, joist span will be 12 feet. deck is at 16" centers, all boards are 2x10 treated yellow pine. EverGrain composite decking will be used.

I just read that I should use "blocking" between the joists? Can do no problem I'll have an extra board from my beam.

6x6 posts and handrail posts.

So I guess the issue is joist span now, So I eliminated a 32" cantilever beam, and gaining a 12ft 2x10 span. I'm hoping I'm improving this deck.
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:29 PM   #26
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32" cantilever BEAM Double 2x10 on a 19' run??


I know I will have a much better concrete footing now. I had my doubts about my footings so this will be better. thanks for any comments, I'm going to install the footings tomorrow morning.

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