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Old 03-10-2013, 11:56 PM   #1
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18" floated shelf


So Ive got a big niche in my living room (about 8 long and 5 high in an arch). My wife wants some shelves for the two ends of it for us to put some nice things on (plus my A/V gear). Its built in such a way that floating shelves with no visible supports would look hot. Theyd be ~24 along the wall, and then 18 protruding, which is where Id like to solicit opinions on design. Thats very deep for a floated shelf, so Im curious if anyone has any thoughts on building a frame that can support the shelves and perhaps 30 lbs at most. I believe I have two studs I can anchor into on either end of the 24 frame.

Is it possible at all? Or would I have to open up the wall and put in some re-inforcement?

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Old 03-11-2013, 12:47 AM   #2
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18" floated shelf


Got to post a picture so we can see what your seeing.

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Old 03-11-2013, 08:51 AM   #3
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18" floated shelf


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Got to post a picture so we can see what your seeing.
Fair enough, I thought it might be hard to visualize, I'll snap a picture today and post it so it's clearer what I'm working with.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:16 PM   #4
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18" floated shelf


Here's an image of the niche. This is the right-hand side, and I'd like to put the shelves going back 24" along that right-hand wall, coming 18" out into the niche itself. Ideally they'd only be connected to the wall on the right, and not the back.

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Old 03-11-2013, 09:47 PM   #5
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18" floated shelf


My version of a floating shelve has the "elision" of not being attached to anything (floating).

This usually consist of long lag screws attached to adequate framing with the heads cut off. Then the back of the shelve is drilled out and slid over the screws/bolts. Something you can't do with a 3/4" plywood or particle board stock.

What material are you wanting to use for this?
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:39 PM   #6
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18" floated shelf


kwikfishron has the solution. a 1" stair tread would work great for the bolt in the back. I get 8' treads and use them in closets without needing braces for long distances, you can hang off of the face of the shelf and do chin ups without it bending
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:25 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by kwikfishron View Post
My version of a floating shelve has the "elision" of not being attached to anything (floating).

This usually consist of long lag screws attached to adequate framing with the heads cut off. Then the back of the shelve is drilled out and slid over the screws/bolts. Something you can't do with a 3/4" plywood or particle board stock.

What material are you wanting to use for this?
I'm wanting to basically build a 1/4" walnut box that will slide over a frame. I'm open to the frame being made of anything needed to give it adequate strength.

What kind of framing are you thinking? I suspect I only have a 2x4" at the front and rear edges of that wall, it's 24" so a little wide but that's what the stud detector (and my knuckles) are telling me.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:25 PM   #8
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18" floated shelf


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kwikfishron has the solution. a 1" stair tread would work great for the bolt in the back. I get 8' treads and use them in closets without needing braces for long distances, you can hang off of the face of the shelf and do chin ups without it bending
Can you elaborate? What's a stair tread?
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:16 AM   #9
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18" floated shelf


A 5 1/4" board which is a full 1" board. If you go to lumber yard and order a 1" board it will be 3/4". If you say a 5 1/4" board you will get a full 1" board!
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:24 AM   #10
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18" floated shelf


This has worked well for larger shelves----

the shelves are 2 1/2 " thick---if that is acceptable----

Make the shelf out of two sheets of 1/2" ply---spaced apart using 1x2 ---the front of the shelf --spacer goes to the outside edge---

Back of the shelf---spacer is inset 1 inch----add a nice routed nosing on the front edge---

screw a 1 x2 cleat to the wall----slide the shelf onto the cleat-----add a few screws to the top of the shelf,into the cleat.

I've made a bunch of these over the years---they look sharp and are simple and strong.
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:02 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Hardway
A 5 1/4" board which is a full 1" board. If you go to lumber yard and order a 1" board it will be 3/4". If you say a 5 1/4" board you will get a full 1" board!
Just to clarify big difference in 5/4( five/quarter) and 5 1/4(five and one/quarter) it's obvious u know but some others may not
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:33 AM   #12
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18" floated shelf


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Can you elaborate? What's a stair tread?
its used inside on stairs and is the 12" treads you walk up and down with the rounded edge on the front. if you get it in 8' lengths it will come as one solid piece and will be pine. it is also sold in 4' sections that is finger jointed and will be oak a lot of times- if you are staining/poly it go with oak.

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Originally Posted by Hardway View Post
A 5 1/4" board which is a full 1" board. If you go to lumber yard and order a 1" board it will be 3/4". If you say a 5 1/4" board you will get a full 1" board!
exactly! its actually 5/4, 5 1/4 would be quite thick.

oh, mike's idea is great for the shelf also and you could incorporate a way to hide the wiring for your AV equipment into the shelf.

edit, I'm spouting off about a 12" stair tread shelf when you said you wanted an 18" shelk- Duh! please use what you can and disregard the rest

Last edited by hand drive; 03-12-2013 at 08:42 AM.
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:49 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
This has worked well for larger shelves----

the shelves are 2 1/2 " thick---if that is acceptable----

Make the shelf out of two sheets of 1/2" ply---spaced apart using 1x2 ---the front of the shelf --spacer goes to the outside edge---

Back of the shelf---spacer is inset 1 inch----add a nice routed nosing on the front edge---

screw a 1 x2 cleat to the wall----slide the shelf onto the cleat-----add a few screws to the top of the shelf,into the cleat.

I've made a bunch of these over the years---they look sharp and are simple and strong.
You think that'd be strong enough at 18"? What would you use to anchor the cleat?
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:06 PM   #14
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18" floated shelf


Screw the cleat into the studs----I've made 14" wide sheaves---never tried 18"--the box work might need to be a bit wider than 1x2----
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:15 PM   #15
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18" floated shelf


My shelf is actually 24" wide, and 18" deep (as though you're looking face-on to that right side wall). Think it'll still work?

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