Yes, for the purposes of playing schoolroom games with a protractor. But not for cutting miter angles. For that, you have to get 'real-world' practical.
If I asked you to make a 90 degree turn in your car, it would be a simple right angle turn, correct? 90 degrees from the direction of travel.
If I asked you to make a 45 degree turn, you would naturally make a shallower turn of only half that angle.
Now if I asked you to make a 180 turn, would you not turn the car around and head back to where you came from?
So......... If I said "Turn 135 degrees." Would you not turn harder past 90, but not all the way to 180?
This is what I'm trying to show the OP. This is the way it works when using the scale on the front of the saw.
Set your miter saw at 0 angle, and what do you get? A square cut.
Although it is 'technically' 90 degrees to the edge of the wood, (playing protractor games again) it is a 0 degree setting on the saw.... in line with the direction of travel of the saw blade.
Now try to move your saw to 67.5*. Go on, try.
You can't do it, can you? Of course not. The saw only goes to 45* (or a few degrees more for some of the expensive saws)
So for us to sit at our computers and confuse a novice with protractor games is not too productive. He wants to know what to set his saw on to make that cut.
The setting on the saw scale is......... what? Yep, 22.5 degrees.
If you need to further understand how to use the UPSIDEDOWN & BACKWARD method of cutting crown molding
CLICK HERE.
By the way, I use that very same little orange Miter Gauge shown in the pictures every day on multi thousand dollar jobs. It works fine for only about $25. (And you don't even need that, if you are extra careful with each and every cut.... but that is a lot of serious hassle, with too much chance of getting off a little every time you make a new cut.)