120 degree outside wall molding - DIY Chatroom

Bill625 · 10-18-2009, 11:29 AM

New to this post... so any help would be greatly appreciated..
I have a kitchen island that is attached to a interior hallway wall that has a 120 degree outside corner that I would like to put some corner molding on. Its only 46 inches high and made of drywall.
I am going to install tongue and groove wood boards on the island and want to finish the corner where the wood will meet up with the abutting drywall of the hallway wall at the 120 degree corner so there is a nice finish to the job. I can only seem to find typical 90 deg outside corner molding at the home centers. Besides milling plain stock myself what other options do I have or are there locations where I can purchase moldings such as what I need.
Appreciate any and all help or other ideas to finish the corner...
Thanks Bill

hayewe farm · 10-20-2009, 12:12 AM

Why don't you scribe the tongue and groove wood board so it fits snug to the wall and no trim would be needed.

Bill625 · 10-20-2009, 05:29 PM

I included a picture to hopefully better explain my situation. The walls in the picture make up my kitchen island on the right and the hall wall that is in a different room on the left, they form an outside 120 deg corner where they meet. When I install the tongue and groove boards on the right wall in the picture the boards will stop at the end where the two walls form the 120 deg angle, this is where I want to put some sort of molding. This isn't an inside corner to scribe the boards but an outside corner that wraps around to another wall that leads into another room. I don't want the ends of the boards showing right at the corner as plan to lay the boards horizontally so there will be multiple board ends right at that corner. I hope this better explains what I am trying to do, or maybe I am misunderstanding you.
Thanks for your time and input...
Bill

hayewe farm · 10-20-2009, 06:23 PM

How about installing quarter round even with the corner edge and flat towards the T&G?

Willie T · 10-20-2009, 07:55 PM

Too bad it's not drywall. they make bead for wide angles like that.

But all is not lost. You can tilt your table saw to 60 degrees, and run a 1" to 1'1/2" dowel (or any size you like) through it in both directions. Just fasten some clamps on a longer than necessary dowel to maintain a flat rip.

It will end up looking like a bullnose corner when painted or stained.

And if you want it skinnier, you don't have to only cut to the center as I showed it.

Bill625 · 10-20-2009, 08:51 PM

Both above ideas will help me out very much, at least this gives me a couple ideas to try because I was drawing a total blank. I appreciate it very much.
Thank you guys very much...
Bill

Willie T · 10-20-2009, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill625

Both above ideas will help me out very much, at least this gives me a couple ideas to try because I was drawing a total blank. I appreciate it very much.
Thank you guys very much...
Bill

BTW, I may have assumed too much when I spoke of tilting your table saw to 60 degrees. It's an old woodworker's trick done with wedges to increase tilt angle. But then perhaps you may already know how this is done.

And truthfully, the saw never really even has to be tilted at all if you rotate the dowel the proper distance. Awww, you'll figure that part out easy enough.

Bill625 · 10-21-2009, 10:09 AM

Right just keep rotating the dowel like cutting slices out of a pie until you have the correct angle. Lucky I only have to deal with 46 inches of wood.
I would rather err on the side of caution and have too much info then not enough. Thank you...
Bill